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92 2WD Auto Transmission Computer

MissAllie

Member
Joined
October 1, 2004
Messages
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City, State
San Diego, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
92' 4x2
My newly rebuilt transmission is in the shop because it won't shift in to O/D. The repair man says that I have a faulty computer and it needs to be replaced. He is pricing them out for me right now. I was curious if anyone else with a failed tranny had to do this. Also would this computer failure cause the other tranny to go bad? The last trannys problem started out where it wouldn't shift until it was warmed up a few minutes.
 



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That tranny is mechanically controlled. I wonder what computer he is talking about. If he actually mentioned a transmission computer, it is time for HARSH action!!
 






I am stuck here. I just bought this rebuilt transmission from this guy 2 weeks ago yesterday. From the first day I drove it, it had no overdrive. It would run at 3000RMP at 65MPH. The tranny came with a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty so I trailered up my truck and took it back to the guy who sold me the tranny so he see what was happening. He says that the computer that controls the 3-4 shift is no good and I need to replace it. I am hoping that this is the solution to my problem and it won't cost big $$. Any help is appreciated.

BTW...I talked to Glaicer991 earlier and he said that the computer controls the 3-4 shift and the TCC lock up.
 






Rear wheel drive Ford non-electronic transmissions

A4LD-overdrive 1985-94 (electronic TCC & 1988-up 4th(OD))

He sounds legit.
 






What tests has he run to determine this? Might be a bad solenoid. I had a similar problem today, the speed sensor wire came undone. When I was going OD speed it would stay in third because the computer wasn't able to get the speed.
 






If he's diagnosed it properly, a bad computer is certainly a possible reason for no 4th gear. If you're concerned about it, do a little research (browse some wiring diagrams, peruse the board here), and then ask him what he did to determine the computer was the bad part. If he gives a reasonable answer, then let him replace the computer. If not, ask him to diagnose it properly (or take it home and do it yourself).
 






Was your overdrive working before the rebuild? All electronics can work one minute and not the next, but it's kind of strange for the computer to stop sending the shift signal after your newly rebuilt transmission is put in. Definitely ask him what tests he ran.
 






huskyfan23 said:
Was your overdrive working before the rebuild? All electronics can work one minute and not the next, but it's kind of strange for the computer to stop sending the shift signal after your newly rebuilt transmission is put in. Definitely ask him what tests he ran.

Yes...my overdrive worked fine before the rebuilt was installed. What kind of tests would he have to run to determine the computer was bad?
 






Here are the tech bulletins to determine why you don't have OD (three parts):
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A.../34853741/34850750/42063452/42468153/56380246
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A.../34853741/34850750/42063452/42468153/42468155
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A.../34853741/34850750/42063452/42468153/42468157

You have the two-solenoid version (for 3-4 shift and TCC lockup). In the third part (step six, third paragraph), it says "If your test light doesn't go out, the computer is not grounding the solenoid." If this is the case, it could be a computer problem, but more likely a bad signal from one of the five things listed in the top picture on that page. I'm not there and I haven't seen the machine, but I'd ask what tests he did to come up with the answer of "needs a new computer". That almost sounds like a canned answer to try to charge somebody who isn't knoweledgeable (perhaps an assumption made of females) a ton of money for something that doesn't need to be.
 






Thank you so much Brain for taking the time to get me that info. I am a bit skeptical that I need to replace the computer, but even after reading all the info you gave me, I still don't have enough working knowledge of the transmission or the computer to know what questions to ask.
 






Basically, since the 3-4 upshift is controlled by the computer, any one of the five things listed would (rightly) keep the computer from letting you upshift into 4th gear (OD).
1) Let's take the throttle position sensor for example - if you are standing on the gas, the computer thinks you are trying to get past somebody (it might even downshift for a pass, depending on how hard you are stepping on the gas). In that case, it will keep you in third gear until you are past that person and let up on the gas (closing the throttle).
2) Vehicle speed sensor - if you aren't going fast enough, the computer realizes that shifting into a higher gear will lower the engine RPMs below the "powerband" of the engine (potentially stalling the motor if it can't keep turning with enough power), so it won't give the command to upshift into 4th gear.
3) Coolant temperature switch - if the coolant temperature is too high/too low, it won't allow the shift for "self-preservation" reasons. It want's you to go easy and get off the highway.
4) Brake light switch - if you are on the brakes, you are trying to slow down, so you obviously don't need to get into a higher gear.
5) MAP sensor - this stands for Manifold Air Pressure sensor. It is another way of seeing if you are standing on the gas pedal (throttle) trying to pass somebody.

The 3-4 shift is controlled by the computer (by means of a solenoid valve), so if the computer thinks you shouldn't shift into 4th gear, it won't do it. The five things I went over above are how it decides on if you should shift or not. These things are "input" into the computer by means of sensors. If these sensors are giving bad information, the computer doesn't necessarily know (like having bad advisors or a blind seeing-eye dog).

I was trying to say that the computer would be the last thing I would suspect, but it is possible. I'm not sure of how to keep you from getting ripped off. If you ask for the original computer module back, there is no guarantee that he won't get one from a junkyard and present it to you as proof. I'm just not a super-trusting kind of person. These links give ways of testing the solenoid and transmission (output) so that it can be narrowed down to the computer or what the computer relies on to make it's decisions. If all five things on the "input" side of the computer can be eliminated, and the "output" side is still not right, then I guess it has to be the computer.

If you search eBay for Explorer CPU, they have some later year ones for less than $50. I'd be very surprised if the earlier ones couldn't be had even cheaper.
 






Brain said:
If you search eBay for Explorer CPU, they have some later year ones for less than $50. I'd be very surprised if the earlier ones couldn't be had even cheaper.

I looked on Autozone.com and found something called an ENGINE CONTROL COMPUTER. Is this what I would be looking at replacing? I searched eBay, but I did not find one for my year Explorer.

I am going to pass on the info you gave me regarding checking the computer. Hopefully this guy isn't trying to rip me off. Thanks for the help (I have a lot to learn about my truck) and I will keep you posted.
 






Many people call them ECU's or ECM's. You'll need to get the code off the plug of your computer. It's behind the passenger-side kick panel. Your code will be 3 letters and a number, like VET1. Find an ECU with your code and you can plug it right in. Better than spending the $500 or whatever the dealer charges.
 






This board has been so helpful!

Thanks for the info HuskyFan! This board has been more than helpful for a novice like me. I have learned a lot. I will keep you posted on the staus of my Ex. Hopefully this thread might be helpful to others.
 






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