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'92 Sport w/tranny leak

Bronco638

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Elk Grove, IL
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'17 Expedition XLT
Hi All,
I'm not new to this forum but haven't been here in quite some time.

I'm looking at a 1992 Sport with the 4.0 and A4LD (153K miles). The owner tells me that engine runs but it can't be driven due to a tranny leak. Now, I've been around cars for a long time and I've never come across a tranny leak so severe that the vehicle couldn't be driven. I'm thinking the pan gasket is shot.

However, I know there are more seals in the A4LD than just the pan gasket.

The truck appears to be in very good shape with respect to rust and the interior is in very good to excellent condition. My bodywork skills are poor to non-existent which is why a prefer vehicles with mechanical issues over bodywork problems. The price is very attractive and I wouldn't need to use it as a daily driver until next Fall. So, I have plenty of time to fix any issue and do all of the necessary maintenance. My plan (after addressing the tranny leak) would be to do a mild suspension/body lift so 31" tires will comfortably fit in the wheel wells (I had my '96 Ex on 32s with a 1.5" suspension lift with a 2" body lift). And, I'd probably add a lunchbox locker to the rear diff. Nothing super serious but it would be nice to be capable off-road.

So, what do you think about the tranny leak? Could it be so severe that it would render the truck un-drivable?

And, while I'm at it, anything else to look for that's common on the First Gens?

TIA, Dave.
 



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The A4LD is not the most robust transmission, especially if not cared for. If you will be daily driving this rig, especially with the extra load of larger tires, then i would just plan on rebuilding the trans and be done with it. If it has line pressure, it should move. Leak or not. It sounds to me like something has failed internally and I would offer a price with a trans rebuild in consideration.

31s will generally fit a first gen without any lift. I drove a 92 2 door with 31x10.50 ATs, for several years with minimal inner fender rubbing. Its the truck in my avatar pic.

Check the same stuff you would for any used, 30 year old vehicle. Pay attention to the front end and suspension. Make sure the radius arm bushings are good. If they are shot, the arm can wear into the mount and ruin both parts. The 2 door rear springs were softer and had one less leaf than a 4 door. You might make sure they aren't sagged badly. The 92 won't have EGR, so thats one less thing to worry about. The other minor things are the center armrest mount would crack and break. It might have the updated mount in it now.

If its clean and rust free, its worth putting a trans in it. What are they asking?
 






Thanks!

I really didn't think that 31s would be 'extra' load but I can see your point. I was really thinking a 1.5"-2" suspension lift would be nice (but not necessarily required) for the 31s.

How do I check radius arm bushings? I'm going to assume that's part of the TTB. I've owned three Rangers (85, 88 & 90) but never had to deal with the front suspensions on them. My Ex was a '96. If the rear springs have sagged, I was prepared to replace them (susp. lift or new leaf packs). The interior, from what I've seen, is very good to excellent so I would hope the armrest mount was OK.

Not sure it's rust-free as I haven't seen it yet. If it is, I'll seriously consider pulling the trigger. Asking price is $1200.

What's a rebuilt and installed A4LD run these days?
 






The bushings are at the rear of the radius arm where it goes through the frame bracket. It will be obvious if they are gone. A visual inspection would suffice. Id just make sure they are present and there is no metal to metal wear. If your plan is a lift, it would be wise to replace bushings while its apart anyway. You can still find the brackets and arms, but they aren't quite as common as they used to be. Its more of the hassle of having to replace them. Where I live rust ravages vehicles and a torch is generally a requirement for heavy suspension and underbody repair.

I honestly haven't priced any rebuilds for several years. I'd check with your local shops, but I'd think 3-4K would be a good guess for one installed. Depending on your level of mechanical ability, you might tackle a teardown and reseal on your own. As long as you don't need any hard parts or major machine work, you could probably get away with a few hundred dollars worth of seals and some wear parts. I'll have a better handle of the cost in the next couple months. I've got a C3, an A4LD and two M5ODs to rebuild in the next couple months. The A4LD is a very close cousin to the C3.

Lately there have been a number of guys reporting PCM failures. There are 3 capacitors on the boards that will leak and the truck might run crappy or have weird codes. I replaced the PCM this spring in my Navajo. It wasn't terribly expensive for a reman computer and you can replace the caps yourself with a soldering iron. My board was trashed from the cap fluid as it ate the traces up so I couldn't fix mine. That's an age related thing more than anything. Take a code reader with you and make sure nothing weird is going on there.

1200 doesn't sound bad if it's solid. If they can't let you try the trans by filling it with fluid, you might get the truck for less. I wouldn't be ashamed to offer 800. As these age and become more popular, the value may begin to go up. There is only just starting to be collector interest in late 80s and early 90s vehicles. So money you invest now in a solid truck may pay off in a few years.
 






I really didn't think that 31s would be 'extra' load but I can see your point.
It all depends on what the axle gear ratio is. 3.73 would be perfect for 31s. Anything less would be harder on the old trans. I had a 92 Sport that I put a 2” lift and 31s on. It had 3.08 or 3.27, I forget, but the auto trans died within a year.
 






1200 doesn't sound bad if it's solid. If they can't let you try the trans by filling it with fluid, you might get the truck for less. I wouldn't be ashamed to offer 800. As these age and become more popular, the value may begin to go up. There is only just starting to be collector interest in late 80s and early 90s vehicles. So money you invest now in a solid truck may pay off in a few years.
This is pretty much what I was thinking; offer $800 if it's not drivable. But, $3-4K for a tranny rebuild might be a bit of a deal breaker, esp. if the diff gears are 3.08 or 3.27. For that much money, I might consider a manual tranny swap. I'll have to see what the rest of the truck is like.
 






This is pretty much what I was thinking; offer $800 if it's not drivable. But, $3-4K for a tranny rebuild might be a bit of a deal breaker, esp. if the diff gears are 3.08 or 3.27. For that much money, I might consider a manual tranny swap. I'll have to see what the rest of the truck is like.
Yeah, ive done a couple of those conversions, they aren't bad to do. I converted my 94 EB, and a 4.0L Aerostar. The van was a bit more tricky, but i managed to locate a donor 3.0 Aerostar manual trans for its top cover and shifter to install on the 01 sport trac trans thats in it now.

Yeah, check it out. You might be surprised. It can be surprising sometimes what some people think is "clean". Post some pics if you go see it.
 






Yeah, ive done a couple of those conversions, they aren't bad to do. I converted my 94 EB, and a 4.0L Aerostar. The van was a bit more tricky, but i managed to locate a donor 3.0 Aerostar manual trans for its top cover and shifter to install on the 01 sport trac trans thats in it now.

Yeah, check it out. You might be surprised. It can be surprising sometimes what some people think is "clean". Post some pics if you go see it.
Good to hear that they're not that hard to do. I did put a BW1350 manual shift xfer case into my '96 Ex and that wasn't bad. I live outside of Chicago and of the pics I've seen, the '92 really doesn't look too bad with respect to rust. But, I haven't seen it in person, and you know how that changes things. We'll see......
 






Good to hear that they're not that hard to do. I did put a BW1350 manual shift xfer case into my '96 Ex and that wasn't bad. I live outside of Chicago and of the pics I've seen, the '92 really doesn't look too bad with respect to rust. But, I haven't seen it in person, and you know how that changes things. We'll see......
My first 92 came out of Schaumburg. That's funny. It wasn't bad the first couple years, but man it really went to hell fast! I had it about two years and the rockers disappeared.
 






My first 92 came out of Schaumburg. That's funny. It wasn't bad the first couple years, but man it really went to hell fast! I had it about two years and the rockers disappeared.
That's not far from where this Ex is. Having lived here since the early 90s, I'm leery of what I'm going to find. But, you never know.
 






This is pretty much what I was thinking; offer $800 if it's not drivable. But, $3-4K for a tranny rebuild might be a bit of a deal breaker, esp. if the diff gears are 3.08 or 3.27. For that much money, I might consider a manual tranny swap. I'll have to see what the rest of the truck is like.
I had my a4ld rebuilt twice in the past 2 years. The first rebuild was all clutches bands sprags. Around 1200 bones without install. Bad sprag into overdrive planetary gear set caused me to go for a second rebuild. This time all hard parts and a trans go shift kit. 1800 bones. They are not hard to pull but you really have to be careful on install to not stab it crooked as the front pump will break.
 






I had my a4ld rebuilt twice in the past 2 years. The first rebuild was all clutches bands sprags. Around 1200 bones without install. Bad sprag into overdrive planetary gear set caused me to go for a second rebuild. This time all hard parts and a trans go shift kit. 1800 bones. They are not hard to pull but you really have to be careful on install to not stab it crooked as the front pump will break.
You have any idea what it would have cost had you done it all at the same time?

I'm a little leery of pulling a slushbox because they're heavier than the manual. I can rest a manual on my chest but I'm not so sure if I could lift an A4LD into place.
 






You have any idea what it would have cost had you done it all at the same time?

I'm a little leery of pulling a slushbox because they're heavier than the manual. I can rest a manual on my chest but I'm not so sure if I could lift an A4LD into place.
I don't blame you a bit for that. I did that once and almost got myself in trouble. (Pinned under the trans, under the car) I was young, working by myself and learned that a transmission jack is the only way to go! I can install a manual by myself by hand, but not an auto. They're too heavy.
 






I don't blame you a bit for that. I did that once and almost got myself in trouble. (Pinned under the trans, under the car) I was young, working by myself and learned that a transmission jack is the only way to go! I can install a manual by myself by hand, but not an auto. They're too heavy.
Especially if you can damage the pump by being slightly crooked on install. I have no illusions regarding my capabilities. At this point, I'm happy to let someone else wrestle with it (or use the proper tools that I don't own).
 






I think $800 might be too much for a Sport with a possible blown transmission. It's really not worth anything but scrap value if it is not a running and driving vehicle. You have to assume the worst and that a rebuild transmission is what's needed to get this vehicle on the road, which could run you $3,000. I would offer him $200-300 if you are going to have to tow it home. I bought a 1994 XLT that had 98,000 miles, ran and drove perfect, with a near perfect interior, but had rusted rockers and body mounts, for $500 a few years ago.
 






I wanted to follow up on this since I received some great/helpful feedback; I decided to pass on the Explorer. Three major reasons; first, the distinct possibility that the A4LD needed a complete rebuild and it was probably something I couldn't do, or partially do, myself. Second, inability to drive the truck to see if it had other issues (the owner first told me it was not drivable, then said it would be drivable if we put tranny fluid in it then recanted and said it would need to be towed). Lastly, the inability to set up a time to actually see the truck. The owner supposedly works at a local auto parts chain but had such an odd schedule that we couldn't manage to make anything work. He also supposedly drove an hour each way to work. He seemed on the up & up but something also seemed off. In the end, it just seemed like too big of a risk, even if I could buy it for $800 (or less). Shame.
 






I wanted to follow up on this since I received some great/helpful feedback; I decided to pass on the Explorer. Three major reasons; first, the distinct possibility that the A4LD needed a complete rebuild and it was probably something I couldn't do, or partially do, myself. Second, inability to drive the truck to see if it had other issues (the owner first told me it was not drivable, then said it would be drivable if we put tranny fluid in it then recanted and said it would need to be towed). Lastly, the inability to set up a time to actually see the truck. The owner supposedly works at a local auto parts chain but had such an odd schedule that we couldn't manage to make anything work. He also supposedly drove an hour each way to work. He seemed on the up & up but something also seemed off. In the end, it just seemed like too big of a risk, even if I could buy it for $800 (or less). Shame.
The ones that get away.. oh well. The beauty of mass production is that there will be other opportunities.
 






The ones that get away.. oh well. The beauty of mass production is that there will be other opportunities.
Very true. In fact, I may have already located something, not an Explorer but it is a Ford. Just need to wait for the seller to return from vacation....
 






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