92 XL Stock-----First Post, First Xplorer, First MODS?

[TroyZ]

First off---great sight.

Quick background-Mostly on the road, tow small catamaran, purchased with 143K, 2wd, SUPER clean, 5 speed, ac, ps--the XL package. I am a shadetree mechanic, who managed to replace the rear left spark plug (small misfire during test drives, took off $1000!!) which appeared to be original OEM. So old entire tip was gone from the plug. Replaced with platinums, replaced valve cover gaskets and now no leaks whatsoever.

Questions relating to improving bouncy ride/upgrading:
1-wire harness--are they the same for XL and XLT's?
2-What should be my first mods? Shocks then air box?
3-Can I get used luggage rack and bolt on?
4-Runnning boards--recommendations? (other than buying an XLT)
5-Is it worth(cost and frustration)adding the rear wiper?

Thanks ahead of time from the new kid on the block!!!
(Previous Ford SHO owner)

Troy

 

[mike91]

Welcome to the site, first you need to decide what your intentions are for the truck: Will you be doing any offroading or will it be more of a street truck?

No matter what your pupose though, you should install 4 new Edelbrock shocks - I haven't had personal experience with them, but everyone praises them. I have Bilsteins (more of a sporty truck) and although the handling on my truck is good, I believe that the shocks could be a little better.

If you want to further improve the ride of the truck, you should order a set of polyeurathane bushings. I doubt you could probably do the job yourself, but the damage shouldn't be too much at the mechanic - price it. A complete set of Energy Suspension bushing is approx. $115 from Summit and the ride and handling will improve dramatically - no mushy feeling.

Next, not to knock your truck, but it seems as though it may be neglected a bit (damn spark plug is destroy - what the hell did they do?) I would advise you to change the oil first to be on the safe side ($25) - put good oil in your truck like Mobil 1 synthetic. Next change the tranny fluid - if possible change the filter as well. There is a link on the homepage which is entitled "Explorer Resources (top left)" it gives a semi-complete guide to performing maintenance on the truck... one of which is a total transmission fluid change. It doesn't change the filter, but rather 100% of the fluid, which doesn't occur when you take it to a mechanic.
Afterward, change ALL the spark plugs. You can install a set of Bosch Platinums or Plantinum 4+. This will improve the spark in your engine as well as your fuel efficiency.

Now performance wise you have two reasonable options (1) purchase a KKM air filter for like $95. It will give you approx. 5hp and a better throttle response. (2) You should put on an aftermarket exhaust system. If you are into efficiency in both performance and looks, order the Flowmaster (5-10hp and more torque) catback system for $160. If you prefer the looks of stainless steel - a Borla exhaust may fit your budget for $400 approximately. If you are going to do some towing, these mods will definitely help a bit.

I hope that you heed some of my advice - at least changing the fluids and the spark plugs. Afterall, its better to be safe than sorry.

Here are some places to order parts:
* Edelbrock shocks - http://www.carparts.com (look for the coupon and you can save $50 off the price. also, Edelbrock is giving a rebate of $27 for the purchase of 4 shocks - limited time only).
* Everything else - Dead Link Removed - call their number up. (800) 230-3030 I believe.

 

[rock883]

Well, I have experince with the edelbrocks and to tell you the truth, my truck still rides like crap. They have a little 30-day money back guarantee thing and I got the rebate so I couldn't return the things, whcih I wish I would have and got some Rancho RS9000 with the control system thing. They are just a little less than the Edelbrocks, but they have a buy 3 get one free thing goin on, so you might try that. That would let you have some money to get the conrtol system. Just my thoughts though.

 

[FMExplorer]

Troy,
Check the site for both shocks and oil. I have the Rancho RS5000 and love them. I have about 120,000 on my '93xlt and I won't put synthetic in there. I have seen a few posts where the synthetics are thinner than standard oil and you may find leaks you never knew existed. In about a year I will be doing a V8 swap - brand new motor - then I will run synthetics form the get go.

The cheapest mod you can do is drill out your airbox. There is an extremley scientific method involving a Browning Auto 5 12 gauge and #2 shot on here somewhere... The plugs, airfilter (K+N) or induction kit (KKM) and wires will probably be the best and most economical right out of the shoot.

Jon M

 

[GJarrett]

Here's the link to how to correctly drill the airbox

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=16092

Dead Link Removed



[Edited by GJarrett on 09-22-2000 at 02:26 PM]

 

[The Godfather]

I've got a pair of running boards I'll sell you for $75 plus shipping from NY. I paid like $150 for them and never put them on because my rockers are rusted so bad...couldn't see it untill I took my side skirts off. They're a tube on the outside and a diamond plate step on top, kind of like nerf bars with a step...they're black in color.


I've got Bilstien stocks on my truck and they're great. They're on closeout at http://www.roadstore.com

As for more power, Borla exhausts are the best (they never rust out), but you can get a Flowmaster for half the price.
http://www.carparts.com has Borla and you can use a 1/3rd off coupon and save about $100. They tend to be slow with shipping so don't expect to have them over night.

For the airbox, drill...or shoot, out holes and drop in a K&N filter.

 

[ERIC]

Re: Here's the link to how to correctly drill the airbox

Gerald, I have had a opened air box for a long time so I'd never gone to see those pix of yours until today. Fine job all around!! I appreciate the precision detailing of the box, especially in its finished form (the weight savings alone musta dropped .2 seconds off your 0-60 ET), and the time spent calculating the exact placement and size of the atmospheric-material ingress apperatures (designed to prevent a venturi effect perhaps?) is an astonishing bit of mathemetics wizardry. Good job!

Unfortunately, i would have been unable to use this particular advancement in HP/torque tweaking anyhow. I have a '96 with the conical airbox. What i did was to remove the airbox, flip it over, and excise 16 sq. in. of the box wall. (Rather csual measurement inasmuch as it is from memory, and mine isn't what it used to be.) It so happens that 16 sq. inches is a the root integer of the formulaic for my particular lat. and long. adjusted for the mean barometric pressure expressed in "hPa." (For new members of the list, "hPa" is Hectopascals...which is exactly the same as millibars but introduces an absolutely elegant obfuscation factor.) This creates what in technical circles is called, "A great s**tload of air rushing in."

In any case, upon seeing that you had in fact posted pix of your work, i immediately took my digicam out and shot a bunch of my handiwork. Unfortunately, the cutout is on the *underside* of the airbox, and unless the viewer has a wickedly good sense of imagination, it simply cannot be seen. Since it cannot be seen, it seemed pointless to put them up here.

However, in the unliklihood there is a great clamoring and outcalling, i will actually photograph this 16 sq. in. hole and post it.

BTW, there is yet another alternative way to "ventilating" the airbox involving plastique. However, it can have a serious downside if you are planning on driving the vehicle afterwards, so it's probably best left in obscurity.

 

[ERIC]

TroyZ,

I'd start with the cutout airbox (free), the K&N filter(maybe $35), and the catback exhaust (Flowmaster system, under $200.) These will get you some reasonable air flow thru the system, very likely give your performance an identifiable boost, and maybe improve your fuel economy.

 

[rock883]

I, like Troy, would like to know about if it would be hard to put a rear wiper on the back window of my 91 XL.

 

[megillet]

Hu?

I also have a 1992 XL, but I have a rear window wiper that come on from the factory, was it an option? Also, it can't be that hard, just a wiper with a switch snaked throught the whole truck. If you do put one on, you may want to add a delay to the switch so it doesn't do the annoying tick tick tick all the way down the trail.