Since this thread comes up every now and then I'll elaborate on how I banged out the lower fitting on the EGR tube.
I was lucky in that my fitting was no where near as rusted as the one pictured earlier in this thread. In answer to mekelly's question, it appears to me that both fittings are 1 1/16" in size, although I was able to jam a 1" open ended wrench onto the manifold-side fitting. I didn't apply any torque to that, however, since I don't like forcing things. Instead I would recommend 1 1/16" open, unless rust has worn your fittings down to 1" over the years.
I was able to get the lower EGR tube fitting out as follows:
1. a single 1 1/16" open ended wrench
2. removed tire, went in thru wheel well. Did NOT have to remove splash shield (thankfully)
3. liquid wrench all over joint, multiple times, for a day or so prior to tackling
4. applied heat to the manifold (not to the fittings) using the same Benzo-Matic T8000 gun as mentioned earlier in this thread. You'll hear the metal manifold popping from expansion. That's good, it tells you you're doing what you aim to do (expand that metal).
5. allowed it to cool. More Liquid Wrench / PB Blaster / etc.
6. heat again with Benzo-Matic (heat cycling is good)
7. placed 1 1/16" open ended wrench on EGR tube fitting. Did not place anything at all on the manifold side fitting (lucky?)
8. took a large hammer, and hit the closed-end side of the wrench several times. I sensed slight movement. Did not have to use a cheater pipe.
9. You will not have much room to work with the wrench, so at this point you'll have hammered your wrench up to the fender. Remove wrench, re-align it to where you have room to hit the closed-end again, and repeat
#8 above.
10. more movement! It's broken loose!
Now, I may have lucked out not having to hold the manifold-side fitting in place (I'm a little south of the rust belt). Once the tube-side fitting broke loose, the manifold-side fitting stayed in place. If it did come out, I would have simply threaded it back in, or, replaced it as mentioned earlier in this thread.
Finally, getting the tube OUT of the engine bay is no simple matter. Be aware of spark plug wires and other things as you remove it. I found it easiest to pull the tube up and out of the engine bay, rather than trying to pull it out from underneath the truck. Now that deserves a :roll:
afterwards.
P.S. I second the advice earlier in the thread...AVOID Dorman EGR tubes. They're made of pot-metal and probably child labor. 1AAuto seems to be the best place to get a non-Dorman tube now, and they're a site sponsor last time I checked. Getting a Motorcraft-branded EGR tube is next-to-impossible where I am, but I'm all ears for suggestions as to sourcing one.
