93 explorer has oil leaks

[jimjiwat4444]

My oil pan is leaking . I have heard the engine has to be pulled to do work on it and New front and rear seals . Can the engine be lifted enough without a complete pull ? Thanks for information ...... Jim

 

[trashtruck]

engine does not have to be completely removed to change oil pan gasket but you may as well do so to replace the mounts and rear main.

 

[natenkiki2004]

It's one of those things where, yeah, you can probably do it in your backyard and lift the engine with a hoist mounted in a tree then crawl on your back and wedge the pan out from between the engine and front axles.

I don't know which way is worse but I will tell you, it's damn nice to work on an engine that's on an engine stand. Having it out like that means it's a pleasure to change the timing gears, timing cover gasket and front seal. All doable with the engine in the vehicle but not fun.

Also, if your rear main isn't seeping or leaking, don't mess with it. I changed mine and am sure that it's the source of my current (and highly disappointing) oil leak. That said, I stupidly went with the repair style with the sleeve which was not at all necessary as the crankshaft looked perfectly fine. Perhaps if you go with the Felpro Teflon style, you won't have the issues I did/do.

 

[jimjiwat4444]

Thank you both . I think it will be pulled out . I'm not fond of laying under a ford with a rock in my back . Other issues need attending to anyway ... Again thanks . Jim

 

[Jason94sport]

Rear main, crankshaft & pan gaskets are my problem. Don't have the tools, & not worth the $ to fix.

 

[overripeturnip]

I'm looking at this exact problem myself. Seems crazy to spend $150 on an engine hoist and another $80 on a stand just to change $60 in gaskets. Some of my colleagues at work were saying 'just look at it as free rust prevention", but it makes my OCD twitch.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I haven't done extensive testing but I changed my oil a few weeks ago and seemingly haven't lost any, which is highly odd. What I did different was add a bottle of AT-205 ReSeal (find on Amazon). It's highly reviewed and I figured I'd give it a go. I'm going to be buying a bottle for my trans until I feel like dropping the pan again. Worth a shot for the price, even if you have to have a bottle for every oil change.

 

[Jason94sport]

I added that 3 months ago...zero effect.

 

[Rhett]

Rear main, crankshaft & pan gaskets are my problem. Don't have the tools, & not worth the $ to fix.

A 1st Gen Sport is always worth the $ to fix.

My truck has had a wet rear main seal for 15 years, that has never gotten worse (or better). I'd say I have to add about 1 quart per year. Moving to 10W-30 vs. 5W has seemed to help. Moving from AMSOIL full synth to Motorcraft semi-syn has also helped. One of these days I'll bite the bullet and fix it. It's rare for me to see a 1st gen that doesn't have that problem with the rear main. I just think from the factory they were not seated correctly, or were of the wrong material for the application.

 

[Jason94sport]

Not just the 1st gens, all the OHV motors. I was shopping recently for a replacement X. I looked all the way up to 2000. Every single one was wet around the pan or by the balancer.

 

[Centaurious]

Ford did not provide alignment pins between the block and the timing cover. Because of this it is easy to miss-align and develop a harmonic balancer leak. Get the pan bolts too tight before tightening the cover to the block and you get a leak. Install the cover without a guide sleeve and you get a leak. Install the cover with the seal installed and the balancer in place and it might not leak... unless you get the pan bolts a little too tight too soon. GRRR

Here is the tool: Front Cover Aligner Set 303-093 T74P-6019-A

http://www.autotoolworld.com/OTC-303-093-Front-Cover-Aligner-T74P-6019-A_p_161209.html