93 Swap Auto Hubs ??

[XLimited]

Ok I finally went to test the Four Wheel Drive out and The light didn't come and it had that clicking noise coming from the back, so I replaced the Shift Motor From My donor Explorer. Well then I went to test the 4WD and the light came on and everthing and Low Range and it makes the noises from the Transfer case and everything but I had no Four Wheel Dirve, What could cause this Are the automatic hubs shot? I Jacked the front end of the vehical up and turned the truck to the ON positon not starting the truck and clicked the 4x4 Light and it made the noises and the light came on but then I was able to turn both of the front tires either way. Does this mean my Hubs are shot? And for the finally question, Is it possible to take the Auto hubs out of my donor explorer and switch them into my truck? There both 1993 Explorer's with auto hubs. I can't afford buying maunuals right now and I know the ones in the donor work. Thanks

 

[huskyfan23]

Not sure. Could be the hubs but could also be something more severe. You CAN swap the auto hubs off your donor Explorer. Pull the wheels off and then the hubs, it's simple. Hopefully your donor has working hubs.

 

[Brock94]

You need to isolate the problem, assuming there is one. put a sort piece of duct tape between each of the fron axel shafts and part of the TTB-- drive the truck in 4WD for a few feet and see if the tape on either side or both is disconnected-- if so, then the transfer case is locking in correctly.

The best way to check if the autohubs are actually locking would be to take the truck to a low traction environment (sand or gravel) put it in 4WD and try driving in a tight turn or two to see if one of the front wheels slips. If one slips, then the hubs are locking. Don't try this on pavement.

And, yes, you can swap auto hubs, but the part of the autohubs that often breaks is the part that is connected to the spindle between the c-clip and the nut that holds that holds the wheel on.-- this part will not come off with the autohub when you slide it off and should be transferred to your "good" vehicle to be sure the autohubs will work.

 

[XLimited]

I've tried to climb some dirt piles in 4WD and it only tries pushing the vehical into the dirt pile and the back tire will let loose and just spin and either one of the front tires are doing absolutly nothing. So is there any sites that would show me info on changing the auto hubs I haven't played with this at all yet. So it is possible to get that part off that usually breaks from the working hubs? I'm going to try the tape things when I get some time. Thank you

 

[ahhjaws]

I have a write up on swaping autos to manuals, don't know if it would too much help for you. www.4x4ord.com

 

[Brock94]

Xlimited-- From your symptoms, you should try the "tape" test described above just to make sure your front drivetrain is actually moving when the transfer case is set to 4WD. If it is not moving, then you have a t-case problem, if it is moving, then you have a hub problem.

If you have a hub problem:

Take a look at the second picture in ahhjaws' write up. (You have to click "Repairs/Mods" on the left of that site he linked to, then select the article on conversion to manual hubs.)

You can follow ahhjaws' procedure to step number 5 on your donor vehicle and then reverse the procedure to install onto your good vehicle. Then just swap the outer hub assemblies as well to be sure (since you said you know they are good.)

The following is probably more info than you need, but I always think its helpful to understand how things work so you can see what, if anything, is broken and avoid breaking them in the future...

That aluminum piece ahhjaws is pointing to with the screwdriver has three square tabs on it-- this is commonly referred to as the "cam" and is made out of plastic in some older models. If your's is the older model with the plastic cam, it will also have two plastic "thrust spacers" between the axel nut and the cam assembly. The shape is similar whether aluminum or plastic-- anyway, the square tab things act as "stops" for the cam mechanism inside the outer hub assembly so that it will lock into place. (If you were to disassemble the outer hub assembly, you'd see that the little "ramps" on the inner and outer cams push a small gear inside the hub assembly toward the outside of the hub so that the gear locks the hub to the internal splines.) Without those little square tabs, the cam on the outer hub assembly would slide up the ramp on one side (locking the hub) then slide right down the other side (immediately unlocking the hub) resulting in a complete failure to lock. The hubs usually break when "rocking" the truck to get unstuck (since the hub would have to unlock and relock in the reverse direction under significant torque each time you rock) or any other situation where a significant load is put on the front wheels at the time that the hubs are engaged-- such as putting the truck into 4WD when stopped on a steep hill, then hitting the gas to try to go (I did this once). What happens is the cam on the outer hub assembly spins up quickly and chops off those little square "stops" resulting in the failure.

Good luck with the fix. Let us know if you have more questions.

 

[XLimited]

Got the 4WD working last night, This kinda of confuses me, When I took my automatic hub off of my truck its a 1993 Explorer Limited its got all the option's, It was made in 05/93 when I took them off they looked perfect no apparent problems to the hub on the spindle but they were the plastic version of the hub, Then I started to take the hubs off of my parts 1993 Explorer XLT (Rolled) Its got its option's too, Well when I started to take the hubs off of that one I noticed a whole new animal on that hub, When removed I noticed that the hub was metal instead of plastic This kinda of confused me since there the same year So I checked the date on the parts and its was made in 02/93, Why would there be metal ones on the older one and plastic on the newer one? The XLT had a towing pacage tho and The limited didn't have a towing pacage. Does the metal automatic hubs better then the plastic ones? But my fourwheel drive is in working order now. Thanks for the help and ahhjaws your write up was a big help made it easy. Thanks again for the help

 

[rocklaurence]

To get the hubs to lock it has to be driven from the axle. Turning the wheel actually unlocks the hub. Turning the front axle shaft will ramp the internal camms and lock the hub. The plastic ramps in my old Autos lasted until I went to 35" tires. Since blowing them out, I purchased the Warn manuals and havent had an issue even when running 37" Boggers.

 

[kdogg212001]

ok on the auto hubs i am about to do the same thing, i am going to take auto hubs from my donor explorer(91 xlt) and put them on my 94xlt but i am thinking about trying that little test with the duck tape, i was wondering if someone in here could tell me whats the best was to clean the old grease out of the hubs i am taking off the 91?? and after cleaning them should i re-grease them?? or how much if any??

 

[XLimited]

If it being a 1991 would the automatic hubs be the plastic cams or the metal ones. ON your 94 you can just go down there and engage it and turn the front driveshaft to see if its your hubs or front diff.

 

[kdogg212001]

wait can you explain that a little more into detail??? i am not sure on what the rings are but would it make a difference??? and still how do i clean them

 

[rocklaurence]

Whip out as much of the old grease with a rag. Then use brake cleaner to remove the remaining grease fromn the hub. Pack the clean hub with as much grease that will fit--any area that isnt filled with grease will fill with water when Wheel-n. Reinstall the hub. Note: allow the cleaner to evaporate before adding new grease.
If your going to test the hubs while Wheel-n and theyre ingaged and the wheel insnt turning, you will hear a loud popping sound from the hub.