Having gone through something similar over the past few weeks, I'll share what I've learned about the fuel system.
When you key on, there should be a two second feed to the fuel pump to build up pressure. The electrical go from the EEC relay (under the fusebox, middle relay) to the fuel pump relay (closest to the firewall). If the electrical is good (as in feeding 12+ to the two green wires on the fp relay for the 2 seconds), next check the inertia switch. Pull back the carpet on the passenger side; it is on the firewall by where the feet go. Pull the two wire plug off, and check if voltage is present on key-on to the green wire. Next, check continuity of the inertia switch itself, to ensure it is not tripped or hooped. Then go to the rear driver side, and pull the four-prong plug on the frame rail near the rear shock. There should be an orange and a black wire; check for voltages there also. Lastly, clean and check the ground for the pump, which is under the hood on the driver's side fenderwell (blk/org wire) just behind the washer/expansion tanks.
A quick way to check is also to key-on, while connecting a jumper wire from the self-test connector to a ground (connector is like a trapezoid; use the outermost prong on the shorter stubby-angled end. FP should turn on.
Mine was intermittent, only on hot days after a drive - helluva thing to diagnose. I had originally ruled out the fuel pump - it was less than 2 years old. I did however fix it by replacing the fuel pump and filter again....I must have run with the tank low or some crappy fuel burned it out.
Or it was built on a Friday.......
Hope this helps; this is a Reader's Digest version of all of the posts and help I've received from the board members (please coorect me if I've made any errors!)
Tom
