'94 Help, how can you tell if your torque converter is taking a dump? | Ford Explorer Forums

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'94 Help, how can you tell if your torque converter is taking a dump?

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Elite Explorer
Joined
June 18, 2001
Messages
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City, State
Santa Cruz, Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XLT
Last weekend on the Niagra rim trail I was running the rock pile. It seemed like I was loosing torque. Meaning I had to get on the skinny pedal a lot more just to get the tires to spin and grab. It seemed I just didn't have as much torque as I remember.

So how can I tell if its failing? Do they slowly fail? How hard is it to replace one? And how much do they cost?

The Rubicon is coming in a few days and I don't think I will have time to replace it but was thinking of buy and spare and bringing it? So what do you guys think? Any help, input, comments, suggestions are welcome.

Thanks!
 



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410 where are you?
 






Specs? Is this A4LD?

Go test it some more after you: check fluid level
Was it running hot?
Does it feel like its slipping all the time or only in low range?
How much were you aired down?

no CEL?
 






410Fortune said:
Specs? Is this A4LD?

Go test it some more after you: check fluid level
Was it running hot?
Does it feel like its slipping all the time or only in low range?
How much were you aired down?

no CEL?

Ahh finally the guru responds. Thanks!!!!! :thumbsup:

The fluid was looking like it needs to be changed.
Nope wasn't running hot at all.
Can't feel any slipping, felt like the ebrake was on (it wasn't).
To about 12psi.
Nope no CEL.
 






change the fluid and filter, since time is short find a trans shop that has a BG backflush machine. Its kinda pricey but worth it. Have them do a full backflush AFTER you drop the pan and change the filter = cheaper.

burnt fluid = slippage possibly, slippage usually = heat.
Maybe you were just stoned? hahahaha
 






410Fortune said:
Maybe you were just stoned? hahahaha

:confused: LOL! Nope not this time. The guy who was spotting me even said it seems like your torque converter may be having problems.

I will do as you said and get it flushed and filter changed by a transmission place.

Thanks bro!!!! :D
 






Hey isn't the torque converter in the xfer case??? :confused:

I just had the tranny modulator changed and the fluid changed (not flushed). He said the fluid looked good when he changed it.
 






torque convertor is in the front of your tranny
 






snocross1985 said:
torque convertor is in the front of your tranny

Doh!

So do you guys think its worth doing a flush on the tranny still? Seeing how it was the pan was just dropped and the modulator changed?
 






How many miles has it been? That is kind of irrelevent, though. If your tranny got hot and cooked the fluid (it would be kind of brown and burnt smelling) it really should be changed. Personally, I would change it out just to be safe incase it got hot and toasted the fluid. Good luck.
 






I will check the fluid again today.

How hard is it to change a torque converter?
 






the torque converter is what couples the engine to the transmission.
the torque converter itself is held to the engines flexplate with only 4 bolts. The 4 bolts are accessed through the starter hole, you manually turn the engine over by putting a 18mm socket ont he front of the harmonic balancer.

However to replace the torque converter the transmission and t case must be removed. :)

If the fluid smells burnt replace it and the filter (drop the trans pan)

First you can do a visual inspection of the vacuum line to the trans, the shifter and kick down linkage, etc.

Does it slip always? going up hills only? Do you notice it from a start?

Can you count the number of shifts? you should have 4 total, with the OD on.
 






410Fortune said:
the torque converter is what couples the engine to the transmission.
the torque converter itself is held to the engines flexplate with only 4 bolts. The 4 bolts are accessed through the starter hole, you manually turn the engine over by putting a 18mm socket ont he front of the harmonic balancer.

However to replace the torque converter the transmission and t case must be removed. :)

If the fluid smells burnt replace it and the filter (drop the trans pan)

First you can do a visual inspection of the vacuum line to the trans, the shifter and kick down linkage, etc.

Does it slip always? going up hills only? Do you notice it from a start?

Can you count the number of shifts? you should have 4 total, with the OD on.

Your explanations always make sense to me. Thanks!

It doesn't slip at all that I've noticed just seemed like the ebrake was on. I didin't seem to have as much low end. May just be me or the trail???
 






altitude?

Lots of things can cause loss of power. A slipping torque converter wont just heal itself normally.
On a 94 XLT first thing I would do is check all the vacuum lines at the vacuum tree, check them all for leaks (these plastic POS's always break)
disconnect the battery
clean the MAS, TB, and IAC
Clean air filter element (come on I know you are not still using paper filters?)
check airbox/intake for debris, etc, anything that would restrict airflow

Now: Change fuel filter if its been a while. Shrader valve on pass side fuel rail = release pressure. Then trip the inertia switch or remove the fuel pump fuse and start truck, let die. Now replace fuel filter using ford fuel line tool. Be prepared to replace the little metal lock rings in both fuel fittings, any auto parts store has them like $2-5.
Explorer fuel filters = SUCK ASS. Dont use FRAM.

Put everything back together and re-connect battery.

Then:
Check the torque on the 8ea 10mm upper intake to lower intake bolts. 1/4" drive, 6" extention, wobbly and 10mm socket makes short work of this job. I stand on the bumper with my knees on the radiator support whenever I have to work ont he top half of the engine, etc.
Very common for these bolts to be loose, gasket may be bad, you are looking for vacuum leaks.

You should also do a shake down test on the undercarriage of the truck jsut for sh*ts and giggles, since you are about to go like 2200 miles or something. Check for play in the d shafts, steering, engine and trans mounts, rear pinion, etc. lube what you can




Does it have a high idle lately?
How old are your plugs?
No CEL
Do the RPM's climb and the truck takes time to catch up? This would point to slippage.
If the engine is struggling to motivate the truck this would point to engine.

hahahaha
One of these days I will confuse you :)
 






Thanks bro! :D

Could be altitude but she did fine in Moab??

I will check what I can.

The air filter does need to be cleaned just went to the store and bought some more cleaner.

I can clean the MAF and I will do a search on the IAC cleaning and the TB.

I will also check the vacuum lines. But I can usually hear when ones has popped off.

Doubt if I will get to the fuel filter today. But I will do that when I return.

I have never checked my upper intake bolts, I will do that tonite.

And I'm still in doubt about making the Colorado run????? :(

Nope no high idle.
Plugs have around 60k miles on them, so I'm sure they should be changed. Which plugs do you use?
Nope no CEL.
Didn't notice the truck trying to catch up to with the RPMs. It just seemed like I was fully loaded or had the ebrake on.
 






is it fine now? on the street?

Cleaning the IAC you will find on here, TB is easy, just unplug wires, unplug hoses, undo cables, remove with 4 bolts. Careful with gasket so you can re-use, if no go then I always cut a new one (roll of gasket material is a must to have around) clean the whole sucker AFTER you remove the TPS with intake cleaner, dry, re-install. Ignore Ford instructions stating TB has special coating, I have been cleaning mine for years.......coating = no good when its caked with carbon.

Motocraft plat plugs are your best bet.

Your trans might be slipping from what you describe
Smell the fluid, burnt = change and filter ASAP.

If you want to do it on the cheap, go get a pan fill plug kit, drop the pan, pick up new Ford gasket and filter, change what comes out (4-5 quarts, use compressed air to evac the cooling system) drill the pan and install your new drain plug, drive it a bit, then change the fluid again, do this every 500-1000 miles until it runs clear.
use mercon, I like Castrol brand mercon, but they are all mercon so they all meet the specs.....
 






Yes its fine on the street. The only time I noticed anything was going up the rock pile on the Niagra Rim trail. She seemed fine the rest of the day.

I'm not going to have time to drop the pan etc. Got a quote (from a good tranny shop) of $100. Might do that just to be safe. Cheaper than a new tranny.

I like your cheap theory and may do that when I return.

Thanks!
 






if you were going up hill it could have been a weak fuel pump. :)
hahahaha but the engine would struggle.
Also if your trans fluid islow and you get really vertical the truck can scavenge for trans fluid = dead in the water.

OR

if you were vertical or twisted up sometimes the gear selector can move from say D to 2........

Just take your AAA card and your credit cards and hit the road! CB, GPS, Cell Phone, tools, water, flashlight, blanket and flares are a good idea. :)
 






The fuel pump has never been changed but the engine seemed fine. Maybe it was my imagination or those mushrooms I ate that I found on the side of the trail. :confused:
 



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na those wouldnt do it......unless you were really just still sitting at home thinking you were outside 4x4ing.
 






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