'94 xlt, "man down" Help with codes and advice.

[DevDog]

My 94 XLT is not working!

It has under 100k miles on it, it does have some rust but looks good to me.

I was on a short trip to get salt, and the engine started to run rough and seem to idle slow. So I stopped at Valvoline and had them change the oil. I dont drive the truck that often so i figured it was time even though I only had 700 miles on it since the last change.
After leaving, it was still idling line hell, so i decided it was time to do some fixing. I am a retard when it comes to this stuff but the check engine light was on.
My truck had a horrible wiggle while stopping or braking so i knew it was time for new or planed rotors. So i changed the rotors, bearings, seals and brake pads. Sweet! No more wiggle. but engine and abs lights.
Fine, time for a tune up. Spark plugs, and cables. Same ****.
A friend thought it has to be the EGR, too it off and cleaned it... but busted the egr tube. So replaced that and the vacuum hoses. Same.
Bought an OBD1,

first time, koeo, 111,111,,1,,157, 332, 157
changed the O2 sensors
Ran awesome for like 10 minutes....
parked it.
started it this morning to test the battery charge and make sure i can move it into the garage again.... Later started it to put it in the garage and it ran for like 5 2 minutes and killed. Pushed it into the garage because it doesn't start.
replaced the MAF, and cleaned the K&N filer (really dirty).
My truck will not start. It like chugs while i hold the key on. it is sounds soo close but it will not start.


Here are my new codes:

Here are my codes.
before the battery died
116, 114, 116, 114,,,1,,,157, 158, 176, 332, 157, 158, 176, 332.

after charging
114,114 or 116, 114, 116, 114 (when i dont have my garage heater on?)

I checked on all the connections and all are good. I even cleaned all the contacts for all the little puter hookups. I am lost now.

My last thought is my catalytic converter is plugged and that ******* has been my real issue the whole time. When it was running like **** the catalytic converter was red hot while idling. after it was like that to run it to the part place it sounds like it was back firing. so if it wasnt the problem then.. it might be now?

Someone save me!

 

[MrShorty]

KOEO 114 and 116 are both caused by the no start. The computer expects to see those temperature sensors above a certain threshold temperature, and they aren't warm enough because you can't start it. These codes didn't show up earlier, so I wouldn't worry about them at this point.

I would half expect the CM 332 is from the busted EGR tube, but it shouldn't prevent it from starting. It does introduce an exhaust leak, which can contribute to O2 sensor codes if the leak is upstream of the sensor (my '92 doesn't have an EGR system, so I don't know how it's plumbed in).

CM 157,158, and 176 are all related to fuel control. Since you've replaced the O2 sensors, I would probably assume they are ok. A red hot cat indicates that there is exhaust fuel in the exhaust stream from the engine running real rich (which will ruin the cat if it hasn't already).

"By the book" the first step in diagnosing fuel control codes is to verify that fuel delivery is up to snuff. Get a fuel pressure gauge and test the fuel pressure (see sticky at the top of the Under the Hood forum) and pull the vacuum line off of the FPR and see if there's gas in that vacuum line (indicates bad FPR).

 

[DevDog]

I don't have a gas pressure gauge, but I did check it for gas. there is gas there for sure. I will dig in better this weekend if i get time. Right now i am preparing my snow blower for the storm that is coming.

 

[MrShorty]

Would that be the same storm that is currently dumping snow on me (an expected 2-4 inches in Provo, which usually means 4-8 at my house)?

If there is gas in the vacuum line to the FPR, that's pretty conclusive that the FPR is bad. It's not common, but I have heard of cases where the rupture in the FPR diaphragm is bad enough that the engine won't start. If there is gas in that vacuum line, I'd start by replacing the FPR.

 

[DevDog]

OK guys. My explorer isn't running yet? Why wont it start?

 

[MrShorty]

Usual causes are no gas to the cylinder and/or no spark. You haven't given enough information to determine which is the case or if it's something else. Can I assume you've replaced the FPR? What is the fuel pressure when it won't start? Are the fuel injectors firing? Are the spark plugs firing?

 

[DevDog]

I am the man. I read these forums, i read the manual. I even busted my knuckles changing ever freakin' part I could do on my own. Here is the scoop: I am retarded!

OK, did i mention in my earlier post that I changed all the plugs and wires!? Yea, I did. Anywho, while changing the spark plugs and cables I replace the ones on the passenger side first. The engine matches the distributor. (for a lay person, that is Front, Middle, Back) I would say in order! So i assumed that was the same on the other side. I was wrong. half of my engine was firing correctly. The other half, not at all. So, 3 misplaced plugs cost me, 2 O2 sensors, an Obd1, an EGR and EGR tube, and a MAF unit.


Moral: if you ef' up your plug wires and get the ef'er to run, it will read codes that will tell you that your MAF is bad, or O2's are bad as well as Egr is Ef'ed. Ef, the effin effers.

Thanks guys.

 

[btexpress]

Moral: if you ef' up your plug wires and get the ef'er to run, it will read codes that will tell you that your MAF is bad, or O2's are bad as well as Egr is Ef'ed. Ef, the effin effers.

Thanks guys.

DevDog, never assume the code is telling you which part to replace, remember this for the next time. The code is a starting point, NOT an indicator of which part failed. Codes leads to proper diagnosis, not replacing parts.

Many folks are mislead, especially by parts stores that run free code checks. There is more to the diagnosis than just getting a code.