94 XLT Running Hot Again...

[micklskot]

Well, not too long ago, I had a new radiator, new fan blade, new fan clutch, and new thermostat put in. I installed the themostat and I know I did it correctly. Truck ran great for about three months .... cool. Now today, the temp went all the way over to hot. I kicked on the heater and the truck began running cool. Turn off the heater and it ran hot. I didn't have a chance to check the radiator this evening, but will see if it's full of antifreeze tomorrow morning. My suspicion is that the thermostat is closed again and not allowing coolant to flow. I did notice that while it was cooling the past three months, the gauge moved around slightly where it would show not quite in the middle and then the gauge would move back to cool.

This is the one issue on the truck that keeps biting me. It has 184,000 miles on it, does not burn oil, but is pinging slightly when going up hills. I live at about 4500 ft elevation. I believe it doesn't like Fina gas. Anyone else had issues with your truck pinging with Fina gas?

We'll back to the radiator shop. I don't want to fight with getting the thermostat out again.

 

[Robrt32]

Advance sold me a thermostat that they CLAIM will not stick shut... If it sticks, its suppose to stick open....

 

[micklskot]

This morning I found that the radiator lacked the coolant stuff. Well, that explains why it's not cooling. Must be a really small leak somewhere because I have not seen any coolant on the ground at any time, however, there were times when I thought I did smell coolant. I'll be going to the radiator shop and have them check it out. It shouldn't cost me anything because they did the work, and it's a reputable shop.

 

[Masterd]

Since you ran the truck with the gauge pegged at hot, chances that you've cracked a head rise dramatically.

 

[micklskot]

Once I noticed that it was running hot, I got out of traffic as soon as possible, pulled over and let it cool off for a while. I drove not even a quarter mile. I'd just like to try and figure where the leak is. I did notice a little coolant right behind the serpintine belt, but not very much.

I do my best to keep the truck maintained, but for whatever reason, I've had cooling issues at times. My last trip to the radiator shop was a great attempt to make things right and keep it going as long as I can. I enjoy the truck and it has plenty of room for my 6'3" frame. If I had to get of rid of it at 184k miles, I'd feel like I've gotten my use and enjoyment out of it. Hopefully, I can keep it longer.

What are any indicators that the head is cracked, and how much to have it fixed?

Thanks.....

 

[Masterd]

IF the head(s) is/are cracked....they like to crack between the valves.

They make an updated casting for the 93TM heads that are a bit bulkier, so IF you needed to put heads on it, that would be the way to go. I'm sure theres about a dozen threads on the forums about this topic.

That being said, if you had to replace the heads, I see no reason that the engine wouldn't continue well into the future. Yours only has 148k on it, mines got over 290k and going strong.

Id start be looking over the cooling system for leaks...then check the lower intake gasket / bolts. Thats another common area for coolant escape, either onto the ground, or into the the motor and burnt off. If the cooling system checks out, and the lower intake is fine, then I'd look into getting the heads checked for cracks.

 

[micklskot]

Thanks for the info.

 

[MikeLitt3810]

IF the head(s) is/are cracked....they like to crack between the valves.

They make an updated casting for the 93TM heads that are a bit bulkier, so IF you needed to put heads on it, that would be the way to go. I'm sure theres about a dozen threads on the forums about this topic.

That being said, if you had to replace the heads, I see no reason that the engine wouldn't continue well into the future. Yours only has 148k on it, mines got over 290k and going strong.

Id start be looking over the cooling system for leaks...then check the lower intake gasket / bolts. Thats another common area for coolant escape, either onto the ground, or into the the motor and burnt off. If the cooling system checks out, and the lower intake is fine, then I'd look into getting the heads checked for cracks.

Check you're oil level as well. if it's not leaking on the ground it is going somewhere.

 

[micklskot]

There is a definite coolant leak happening right at the bottom just behind the serpentine belt. Since I'm not a mechanic, but don't mind turning a wrench, I'm guessing that this is the water pump. My manual talks about a weep hole and that coolant will leak here if the pump is going bad or has gone bad. The leaking coolant is right where there is a bolt, so I'm wondering if I just need to tighten there. If so, what size wrench do I need? I tried my wrenches, but none fit the bolt. I haven't heard any 'howling' sound that my manual mentions. I'll do some more searching on the forum here, but any recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks.....

 

[MikeLitt3810]

There is a definite coolant leak happening right at the bottom just behind the serpentine belt. Since I'm not a mechanic, but don't mind turning a wrench, I'm guessing that this is the water pump. My manual talks about a weep hole and that coolant will leak here if the pump is going bad or has gone bad. The leaking coolant is right where there is a bolt, so I'm wondering if I just need to tighten there. If so, what size wrench do I need? I tried my wrenches, but none fit the bolt. I haven't heard any 'howling' sound that my manual mentions. I'll do some more searching on the forum here, but any recommendations is appreciated.

Thanks.....

DO not tighten it...

u can crack the waterpump very easy.. !!!!!!!! I can walk you through it but ur looking to spend a few bucks on a waterpump gasket and a few more on some rtv sealant..

 

[MikeLitt3810]

water pump replacemant.

disconnect the bat. I don't know why but it suggest doing it every time u work on ur car.
next. remove the clutch fan.. it's threaded on. u turn the nut/shaft for the fan it comes off. i do recall it's reversed thread.
now remove Sbelt. once fan is off. u need the added tension of the belt for fan removal.
you are recomemded to drain you're collant and dispose of it properly.
now take off the water pump 15 or so bolts all the same size head but all diffrent lengths.

good idea is a shoe box punch holes in the top in the order removed.. and on reassembly you will be glad you did this.

now for the pump these things are guled on pretty good from factory. so you may be tugging on it for a few min.

if you think the pump need's replaced go for it.. if it seems to be free of cracks still spins good they try ur luck at reusing it. (i'd just replace it since it's off)

on the engine side use a putty knife and remove all of the old gasket.

now thin layer of gasket sealant, then new gasket. another layer of sealant and then a clean water pump ..

it took me about 6 hours to replace mine. due to the fact i was ignorant to the threaded on clutch fan. I was so used to taking off 4 bolts not the case on explorers.

 

[micklskot]

Guess since a lot will have to be uninstalled to fix the leak, might as well replace the water pump with a new one. Thanks for the replies.....

Mike

 

[Prof. Wernstrom]

i have to add coolant to my truck like...once ever month and half.... to lazy to find the tube thats leaking heh

 

[ld50]

If you have to take the pump off yes get a new one. Murphy says if the weep hole is not where the coolant is coming from right now, it will start to leak from there immediately after you do all that work.
You will find that wrenches that are regular size probably won't fit the fan clutch nut, they are too thick. A ford dealer will gladly rape you for the custom size wrench set. Your fan shround should tell you the direction of the fan clutch threads. Fan clutch replacement is optional.

 

[mikeinri]

I agree, don't waste your time doing just the gasket, replace the pump.

While you have it all apart...

For the price of the fan clutch (under $50), that's a good investment too. Take a look at your fan and make sure there are no cracks in the plastic, otherwise replace it.

If you just had the coolant replaced recently, you can re-use that. Just be sure you're using clean jugs to hold it when you drain the system.

You may be able to rent the fan clutch tools at AutoZone. Do a search here, there are lots of opinions on these tools.

Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.

Mike

 

[Maniak]

If your going to do the fan clutch and live in a hot climate (some of NM is that way) you should look into the hayden severe duty fan clutch.

It will take a way a Little gas mileage on the highway compared to the regular or heavy duty but it will help keep the engine cooler in slow speed driving..

~Mark

 

[micklskot]

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice. I'm kicking myself now because about three months ago because of my cooling problems, I had my radiator replaced, new fan blade, and new fan clutch installed. At the time, I asked the shop if they thought I should go ahead and replace the water pump, but they talked me out of it. Well, you live and learn.

So far the leak isn't too bad, but I am smelling the coolant when I exit the truck. I'll just have to keep an eye on it, and hopefully, I can do the work this time. It would be good experience for me learning how to do it.

Thanks again for the advice and replies.

Mike

 

[MikeLitt3810]

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice. I'm kicking myself now because about three months ago because of my cooling problems, I had my radiator replaced, new fan blade, and new fan clutch installed. At the time, I asked the shop if they thought I should go ahead and replace the water pump, but they talked me out of it. Well, you live and learn.

So far the leak isn't too bad, but I am smelling the coolant when I exit the truck. I'll just have to keep an eye on it, and hopefully, I can do the work this time. It would be good experience for me learning how to do it.

Thanks again for the advice and replies.

Mike

It is a good weekend project for someone who wants to learn.. ok u have a new rad so when the fan comes off just be careful not to ding the RAD!! take 2 pices of cardboard and put them inbetween the fan and the rad.. this will save you from a possible leak later in life.