'95 Explorer Dana 35 IFS SLA Pinion bearing question

[M.D. Farragher]

I am in the midst of rebuilding my IFS SLA, and have gotten down to removing the inner pinion bearing race from the diff housing. How in the heck is this supposed to be accomplished? There is really no lip to speak of, left exposed from the yoke side either to tap on, or to grab on to if a puller is to be used. What is the trick here?

Thanks in advance.

 

[imp]

I am in the midst of rebuilding my IFS SLA, and have gotten down to removing the inner pinion bearing race from the diff housing. How in the heck is this supposed to be accomplished? There is really no lip to speak of, left exposed from the yoke side either to tap on, or to grab on to if a puller is to be used. What is the trick here?

Thanks in advance.

There should be a hole cast in the diff. housing corresponding to the pinion inner bearing outer race. Usually, it is big enough to provide a narrow edge of the race exposed to a good, square steel drift. The drift is used to get the race loosened away from it's back side, after which it may be carefully driven out.

Another method involves cracking the race with a stout cold chisel. Not easy, can damage casting.

 

[M.D. Farragher]

There should be a hole cast in the diff. housing corresponding to the pinion inner bearing outer race. Usually, it is big enough to provide a narrow edge of the race exposed to a good, square steel drift. The drift is used to get the race loosened away from it's back side, after which it may be carefully driven out.

Another method involves cracking the race with a stout cold chisel. Not easy, can damage casting.

This is precisely what I expected, having just re-geared my 8.8. In that housing from the yoke side there were two relieved areas cast into the housing for just this purpose. Made it a no brainer. But on this housing, no such reliefs. Solid all the way around the land for this inner bearing. There has to be a trick to this. I can't believe they didn't make it possible to pull this race without high risk to the housing. And, while there is a bit of the race proud of the housing, it is less than .060", and I don't think the teeth on the slide hammer puller fingers will grip it. Going to try that this afternoon, but won't need to hammer it to know. My bearing driver kit doesn't have anything the right diameter to fit this that perfectly either. Very strange.

 

[CDW6212R]

The carrier bearings require a special small bearing puller compared to normal diffs, that's all I heard of needed for these models.

 

[M.D. Farragher]

The carrier bearings require a special small bearing puller compared to normal diffs, that's all I heard of needed for these models.

Carrier bearings weren't a problem. Standard bearing puller with a bit of heat and they popped right off. But this inner pinion bearing race is challenge.

 

[imp]

Carrier bearings weren't a problem. Standard bearing puller with a bit of heat and they popped right off. But this inner pinion bearing race is challenge.

Why not drill two holes diametrically opposite each other not too far in from the race's OD? From the casting side, obviously. The drill bit tip will spin helplessly against the super-hard race, but no matter, you know how to sharpen drill bits, right? A good stout drift will then drive the race out, working side to side.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm interested because I need to rebuild two of those for sure, and install at least one new carrier. I got stuck on finding one of the mounting bushings, after I got the other pair from Ford.

 

[M.D. Farragher]

Why not drill two holes diametrically opposite each other not too far in from the race's OD? From the casting side, obviously. The drill bit tip will spin helplessly against the super-hard race, but no matter, you know how to sharpen drill bits, right? A good stout drift will then drive the race out, working side to side.

Reading my mind. Tried the slide puller last night, and no go. Not enough purchase, so this idea of "machining" the case was all I came up with. I think getting a drill bit to bite into the case on the side is going to be difficult, but a burr in a Dremel might do the trick. One new question came to mind. I seem to remember reading somewhere that these cases are made of magnesium, not aluminum, and I am wondering if that poses any fire risk if I should happen to hit the race with the burr once I get down that far. Can anyone confirm Al or Mg?

 

[M.D. Farragher]

Reading my mind. Tried the slide puller last night, and no go. Not enough purchase, so this idea of "machining" the case was all I came up with. I think getting a drill bit to bite into the case on the side is going to be difficult, but a burr in a Dremel might do the trick. One new question came to mind. I seem to remember reading somewhere that these cases are made of magnesium, not aluminum, and I am wondering if that poses any fire risk if I should happen to hit the race with the burr once I get down that far. Can anyone confirm Al or Mg?

Aluminum. Talked to a tech at drive train America. Same tech said there should be two "notches" in the casting. Funny that they are not there. Anyway, onto "machining" notches.