'96 Rear Brake Pads - Caliper Bolt(s)

[Laura69]

New to the site - could use some help. I was trying to replace the rear brakes. Was given the pads for them (yes, not shoes, no springs - caliper and pad setup on rear as well as front). Figured this would be easy. Neither manuals I have reflect this version, BTW (1991-1995 nor 1991-2000 models).

I figured one took out the two caliper bolts, releasing the caliper and moved on with replacing pads. Problem is, nothing budges the bolts and one was already slightly rounded off. Yeah, okay, it's a bit more rounded off, now, dang it.

Got too depressed to even LOOK at the other side. <pout> Does anyone have any ideas? If I have to replace the bolt, that's fine but...how?! Any recommendations on a manual that is worth a darn? Currently using the standard issue Haynes that you get at parts shop.

Thanks from a very tired, frustrated, cussing southern gal....

 

[guggy]

Welcome Laura!!!

Don't sweat it . I also have rear disc breaks on my 98 limited .

If the bolts are stripped here's a trick that might work if the caliper bolts aren't "stuck" in there ..


You will see a ribbed rubber cussion covering the caliper bolt . What you can do is grab a GOOD pair of VISE GRIP pliers and try to grab the bolt and clamp the vise down on it as tight as you can mannage, i know the bolt is round but i have done this in the past with other cars and it worked (mabey luck).

WATCH YOU KNUCKLES !!!!

Just be careful and remember to use a jack stand always !!!

Hope this helps.

 

[Laura69]

LOL...thanks for the idea - the ex said the same thing - vise grips. Yes, I have a darned fine floor jack and stands - wouldn't get under the beast without them!

You know, I was driving her home tonight, thinking just how great a vehicle she is. What *is* it about those Explorers?! <grin>

Dumb question II - how big a container do I need to catch fluid when emptying radiator to flush and refill?

 

[go off road]

you need a good 10mm 6 point socket get rid of those 12 point sockets

 

[guggy]

So soon

I'm not sure about the coolant i just let it pump out down the driveway into the sewer !!! (joke)

I'm not sure i'm doing mine in a few weeks though. Let me know how your turns out. Oh yeah you can purchase that prestone antifreeze replacement system. It's a kit that includes a bladder "fancy word for catch bag"so there's no mess !!!


I'm glad to see a lady working on here truck . I bet you can teach us a thing or too..

Ciao

 

[geo95xlt]

bummer about the bolts. i just did the rears on mine
this weekend.68,000 mi. not to bad i thought.
i was able to take them out with a 1/4 drive
set.so it doesnt seem like the factory tightens them
too much from the start.

 

[Laura69]

Well, I was just trying socket after socket, to be honest, trying to find the one that fit. <grin> But these things looked like they should have been changed 20k before. It's a Rust Belt car, I think - I got it used - as there is a fair amount of it that I can see. The rotors are def. in need of replacement but I am trying to hold off for a month on that task.

In re: brakes - I read about a bleeder here and there. I assume this permits bleeding the brakes without assistance? Yeah, if you can imagine, I have no one able to help little ol' me. <grin>

As for fixing things myself, I rather have a clue as to the problem before trusting someone else to tell me. And I am darned happy to do those things I can rather than pay someone to do them for me. Of course, I am looking at the good ol' tune-up time and that's a tad scary....

 

[SMASHEK]

Reminder

I know you might not like this reminder but your gonna get it anyhow.

Make sure you are turning the bolt counter clockwise to remove it. Position yourself so that you are looking at the head of the bolt and make sure you are going counter-clockwise.

I'm with the 6 point socket idea also, throw out the 12 point if you are using.

 

[Laura69]

LOL...yes, I am a proponent of the righty-tighty lefty loosey method. <g> I always have to remind myself of that when I start to take things apart. And thanks on the socket thing - I have both...

 

[rydinhigh]

Hey I saw you were gonna flush the radiator system. where is that damn plug I can't find to let all of the antifreeze out.

 

[sink]

I am happy to see that a gal is wrenching. How'd the caliper removal come out?

Always, Always, Always make sure the socket fits tight and is seated squarely before attempting to turn with anymore than an easy pull. Yes, don't use 12 points once your pulling hard enough to grunt. Try to remember to use WD-40 in large amounts on the exposed threads the night before. Big Finish- as long as you watch the flame and avoid this on plastic or parts with rubber seals, the propane torch is your friend. You figure what the temperature of those bolts is right after you kick it from 60 to 0 on the road. You can torch them to at least that hot to free them up to get them out. Heat helps- ALOT. Someone once said you can heat bolts with the torch then touch the first exposed threads with candle wax. It will suck up under the nut and give it lube. I never tried it yet.
AND..... Vice Grips are the greatest tool known to man (and woman). When properly squeezed onto a bolt head, bolt stub, etc, (so tight that your hands hurt after closing them) they will save your butt. I have already used a 3 ft pipe on the end of my Vice Grips to remove 5/8 bolts with only 1/4 inch to grab. Last- I don't think my 94 has a radiator drain. I put a big bucket down there and pulled the lower hose.

 

[sink]

I just remembered another tip. If you do find someone to help to bleed brakes in the normal method, it is smart to ensure they don't push the pedal to the floor (even if you put a piece of wood or something under the pedal). Going to the floor will push the master cylinder piston into the corroded area of the cylinder beyond where it has been normally going and keeping things shiny. This will enevitably tear the fabric piston seal and you'll be rebuilding the master cylinder soon.
Also a dumb question? I never bleed my brakes unless I have changed a cylinder/piston or otherwise opened the fluid system. Are you replacing the caliper or flushing the system alon with your pad replacement?g

BTW- You mean a warm-blooded female can't schmooze some hormonal 14 YO neighbor boy into helping with the brake bleed?

 

[Laura69]

Yes, vise grips and duct tape are the generally accepted gifts from the gods. <grin>

IN re: radiator drain plug: it is on the bottom-left of the radiator - more of a nipple shape than anything ("she said nipple!"). On later models, there could be a splash guard below the radiator that is held on with plastic pushpins. Release one side to gain access to the drain plug. Did like the idea of detaching the hose. <g> Very manly.

Thanks for the brake bleeding info. While I do expect to be hacking around with cylinders (please, god), I do have to replace rotors and ANYTHING can happen. <g>

In teh famous words of someone, "I have not yet begun to schmooze!". But I fully intend to. Surely there's some kid around here...of course, nowadays you have to pay them to get off the couch....

I plan to tackle the darned bolts this weekend. I loved the idea of the wax but have fears of caliper contamination which is why I held back from WD40...in terms of sockets, I was darned sure it fit. That's why I was so surprised. Then, when I just tried to use the open ended wrench (is that the proper name?) on it, that's when I was sure it was already fubar'd.

Thanks, everyone...off to read more on that pesky vibration in a left turn issue. I thought it was just me....

 

[sink]

Laura69- You seem most cool. Good luck. I love your signature line. LOL.

 

[Laura69]

Why, thankyouverymuch! <grin> Some people think I am an insufferable pain in the... and then some people just think I am insufferable.

And the sig is not necessarily inaccurate. <g>

 

[TDG]

Radiator Drain

If anyone has ever used Stop-Leak in their cooling system they may be unpleasantly surprised to find that it also does a good job of stopping up the radiator drain. I was changing the coolant on my 93 right after I bought it and when I opened the drain valve nothing came out, not a single drop or any hint of moisture. If it hadn’t been for all of the other Explorers and Rangers that I have done coolant draining on I might have thought the drain valve did nothing. In the end I wound up pulling the valve out and poking around in the hole with a stick to break the stuff loose. Of course by the time I finished getting all of the stop leak out of the system the radiator started leaking. (What a surprise)

Just a general note to those of you who have used stop leak (FIX AND FLUSH as soon as convenient) or turned the valve with no results. Although pulling the lower hose off works great I find it to be just a little messy.

 

[Laura69]

It's Done!

Well, gentlemen - it's a success. <grin> I managed to get teh bolts out using a 10mm socket and some elbow grease. The calipers are rusted fairly badly and the pads were obviously orig. equip. since they were in terrible shape.

Some tips in case anyone else goes through this - a stand of some kind of the same height as the rotor was helpful as a workbench of sorts, preventing the brake line from being stressed; a C clamp was invaluable in pushing the pistons back in to allow the inner pad to be placed easily; when reattaching the caliper, the securing pin (inner pad, top end of caliper) should be tipped in and then the rest of the caliper slid into place; watch for the bolt portion of the caliper - it slides back out and in the way when trying to reseat the caliper. I did do the usual punch it in reverse and brake hard thing to adjust the brakes...

Placing the jack on the right rear side was a tad more difficult - more stuff in the way. I suspect the Ford jack might allow a better fit and should be considered in future tasks on that side.

I want to thank all you guys for the advice and support on this one. The grinding noise is gone, brake power is restored and I feel like a freaking genius for not paying some goober $150+ for a $30 job. Now, time to figure out how to do a tune-up. <grin> Best wishes!

 

[yob_yeknom]

If you had trouble with the brakes, you'll love taking out the spark plugs for your tune up. Getting the wires off ain't no easy task either. It took me AND my dad 3 days to change the plugs and wires.

• list of things you should probably do during the tune up
• new spark plugs
• new spark plug wires
• new air filter
• new fuel filter
• flush coolant system
• change oil
• change transmission fluid filter (or even better get a shop with a machine to completely flush the old fluid and put in synthetic)
• use some fuel system cleaner