96 xlt 4x4 rear brake pads and disc's

[bdd]

can someone tell me how to change rear pads and rotors. i think i have all the necessary tools. when i tried to remove the caliper, i couldn't get it off and the pad has cut deep groves into the rotor. pls help

 

[G-96XLT]

a little prying should do it. first you take off the 2 caliper bolts and then with a large flathead or pry bar slowly raise the caliper up and the thing will come right up. then I take off the mounting bracket with 2 largers nuts (15mm I believe) and that allows the rotor to drop , on mine one side dropped and the other was stuck , I had to hammer the rotor for 5 mins.

when putting the new rotor on you can use one of your lug nuts to hold it firmly in place and then I sort of put the bracket and calipers at the same time on my 2000 and one at a time on my 96.. on the 96 I put the mount on then the pads and the caliper last , making sure those pistons with the rubber boots are moving freely...

either way if changing pads and rotors you will gain an inch so you will have to compress the cylinder , you are supposed to use a wood block and a tool but my 96 is not a showpiece so I use channel locks

 

[G-96XLT]

the rear discs on the 96 xlt have the parking inside like a drum. make sure your parking brake is off , if they are stuck you can hammer them off , the parking brake liner is so thin that even grooved it should come with a pry and hammer . I got mine off like that and I had a seized parking brake

 

[bdd]

how to get the rear rotor off the truck

am i supposed to remove the four 15mm bolts in back of the rotor? or do i need to simply "beat it off". pls help!

 

[96eb96]

am i supposed to remove the four 15mm bolts in back of the rotor? or do i need to simply "beat it off". pls help!

Like 96XLT said, there are 2 caliper bolts. Thats all has to come off.
The 4 bolts stay where they are. If the pads cut a groove into the rotor put a large C-Clamp on the caliper on the outboard pad and compress the caliper a bit to give you some leeway. The caliper should slide right off.

If your rotor is stuck you may have to retract the parking brake shoes. Look behind the backing plate for a slot, then turn the adjuster with a screwdriver.

Also, corrosion could hold your rotor to the hub, you may need some PB blaster around the flange and a hammer. Use a bit of antisieze or lithium grease on the hub face to prevent corrosion.

Make sure those rubber boots slide smoothly, grease if necessary.

 

[96eb96]

a little prying should do it. first you take off the 2 caliper bolts and then with a large flathead or pry bar slowly raise the caliper up and the thing will come right up. then I take off the mounting bracket with 2 largers nuts (15mm I believe) and that allows the rotor to drop , on mine one side dropped and the other was stuck , I had to hammer the rotor for 5 mins.

There is no removable bracket in the back, unless the axle comes out. There are just 2 10 mm nuts. I think you are referring to the front brakes.

My upstate NY truck with original rotors with 135K miles took over 1/2hr on each side of pounding, PB blaster in the flange, and wedging with wood shims and a framing hammer to get the damn rotors off! They were like welded on! The backs were almost as bad.

 

[G-96XLT]

don't remove the 4 15mm bolts , you only remove the 15mm bolts if doing the fronts..

the only removal is the two small caliper bolts, the rest is hammering , it will slide off eventually , yes there is a thingy in the back to close the parking brakes in but I found it useless, you may have luck with it , its a rubber plug on the back shield , and once you remove the blug stick a fleathead in there and wind a wheel which expands or closes the parking brake , but it is assumed that if the rotor is stuck the adjusting wheel will be stuck as well , like I said just some hammering and prying.

 

[96eb96]

don't remove the 4 15mm bolts , you only remove the 15mm bolts if doing the fronts..

the only removal is the two small caliper bolts, the rest is hammering , it will slide off eventually , yes there is a thingy in the back to close the parking brakes in but I found it useless, you may have luck with it , its a rubber plug on the back shield , and once you remove the blug stick a fleathead in there and wind a wheel which expands or closes the parking brake , but it is assumed that if the rotor is stuck the adjusting wheel will be stuck as well , like I said just some hammering and prying.

He should probably do his parking shoes too if they have to be hammered off. Be sure to replace the hardware as well. They are needed for inspections.

 

[G-96XLT]

I hated those things. I tackled it twice before realizing I need all new hardware. then I found the perfect kit with everything in it even the adjuster and I haven't had the time to put it on.

 

[96eb96]

I hated those things. I tackled it twice before realizing I need all new hardware. then I found the perfect kit with everything in it even the adjuster and I haven't had the time to put it on.

I know..I bet you have a frozen lever, corroded backing backing plate, or cable that rubbed against your leafspring and is internally corroded. We have a fun thread about that in the Explorer 911 forum. Do they check parking brakes in Ontario? Down here in NY they rev the truck up to like 1300 RPM and see if they hold. After my rebuild, mine probably grip with more force than the calipers

 

[G-96XLT]

they don't check for parking brake in ontario , only on the first safety when you take ownership , after that you can cut them if you want . my levers were joined together. I had to use a pry bar and a hammer to separate them and it took a while. I thought the levers were a write off but it I grinded them with a wire wheel on a drill and got them back to new.

 

[96eb96]

they don't check for parking brake in ontario , only on the first safety when you take ownership , after that you can cut them if you want . my levers were joined together. I had to use a pry bar and a hammer to separate them and it took a while. I thought the levers were a write off but it I grinded them with a wire wheel on a drill and got them back to new.

Yep, did exactly the same thing with the levers. And the backing plate pads had severe corrosion that was dremeled off. I coated everything with a thick layer of high temp synthetic brake grease.

I paid a bit more for bendix shoes too, they definitely have a stronger bite than the cheap ones.

The trick with those brakes is use them or lose them. If they are used and released daily there is never a chance for corrosion to build. Problems happen when they are neglected for many years, and someone tries them. The hardware is corroded and the shoes do not fully retract. Then the shoes are destroyed and the drum follows.

 

[stevecicc98]

I hated those things. I tackled it twice before realizing I need all new hardware. then I found the perfect kit with everything in it even the adjuster and I haven't had the time to put it on.

Where did you get that kit? I could sure use one? I've not been able to find one. I'm in the States near Phila...

thx-

 

[96eb96]

Where did you get that kit? I could sure use one? I've not been able to find one. I'm in the States near Phila...

thx-

NAPA or Advance auto has it in a bag.