97 automatic 4WD...Can I use the rear diff in the front?

[pcrussell50]

1997 XLT 4.0l SOHC, automatic 4WD

My gear shop says the front diff is making noise. They aren't too worried since 4WD is so rarely used. But I'm hatching an idea. Hear me out... This car has open diffs front and rear. So is there any reason I can't have them put the rear diff up front and then put a Torsen (TruTrack) in the rear?

-Peter

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

Front and rear differentials are not interchangeable, nor are any of the parts.

 

[imp]

Front and rear differentials are not interchangeable, nor are any of the parts.

@974X4BLACKSPORT

This is correct. The two axles are different makes and types. Not even the gears may be swapped. imp

 

[410Fortune]

find anther front diff with the same gear ratio and install it

I sell used 3.73 front diffs (center section) for like $75
I sell the install for $100
Parts and fluids are about $50 for new seals and lube

Or you can DIY, it seriously takes me about 45 minutes to swap a front diff on these gen II trucks
There are 3 bolts that hold the diff to the frame after you drop the two cv axles and un bolt the front driveshaft

There are LOTS of used front diffs out there that will fit your truck, just make sure it has the same gear ratio as your rear axle/old one

 

[alaskan155]

a 410 said,
you have 95-01 explorers and 98-11 rangers for the front diff plus 01-05 sport(2 door) and sport trac(same for the rear axle)

3 bolts pop one of the upper ball joints and you can get it out, only time its a issue is if the flag nut breaks....

pick n pull is the cheapest source.

rear axle can be had for around $200 , and come with a limited slip from the factory. ranger fx4 level ii are the only ones that have the torsen diff and they can be almost bolted in but will lift the explorer about 5" in the rear(spring over)

 

[410Fortune]

Also 97-01 Mercdury Mountaineer and 98+ Mazda B4000 pickup trucks

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't forget the front vent hose when R&Ring. That rubber hose is stronger than you think.

 

[pcrussell50]

rear axle can be had for around $200 , and come with a limited slip from the factory.

Does this mean all the Gen2 explorers have limited slip rears from the factory? My rear diff is fine. It’s just that I thought something better than an open would be better in the snow.

-Peter

 

[CDW6212R]

No, way less than half have the LS diff's. You can check that on any door jamb VIN tag. The open rear diff's have a number code for the AXLE, the LS's are all letter codes. The fronts are all open diff's.

 

[CDW6212R]

It is likely any LS rear needs new clutches though, those wear out quickly if you need them often at all, in the snow or with one tire spinning much ever. The AWD trucks will have less wear on their LS rear clutches.

 

[pcrussell50]

Thanks for both posts. Since we're still pretty new to having winters, (from CA) and now that the 4wd is working, It's axle code D4 which I think is 3.73LSD. I'll go under the assumption that I have opens front and rear (because even hough it's LSD the clutches are surely toast anyway), and see how the winter/snow goes. It's Denver, so sooner or later they get around to clearing the snow... or else it's 70degrees a couple of days afterwards.

-Peter

 

[CDW6212R]

It is interesting that the AWD works slightly better on slick surfaces, from the stand point of the initial start. I have both AWD trucks and a SOHC/A4WD truck, and have delivered mail with both in snow etc.

The automatic 4WD will spin one rear tire just a moment before the "4WD" engages, which means the front tires get power then, which reduces rear power so the tire spin stops. That's part throttle, not WOT, it's different at all throttle openings.

The AWD will rarely ever spin one tire, on any initial take off. That's because the power is always split, it doesn't need to be altered after tire spin is detected. Thus the LS clutches last a lot longer in an AWD Ford, versus an LS rear in 2WD or 4WD Fords.

My last 98 I got three years ago I installed new clutches into, about 16 months ago. The right rear tire didn't spin much right after the new clutches, but in a couple of months I could tell the difference. It took less throttle to begin to spin the tire. Now it's not hard at all to spin the right rear.

The LS works well and last a while when you never use enough power to spin a tire. But if you do, don't expect large benefits after a few months. That's why I invested in a Torsen 8.8 diff, back in 2004, for my Mountaineer. It still works as well now after 105k miles, and I have two more to go into my 99 soon.

 

[pcrussell50]

Yep. Torsen was and stil is my plan. I want to see how this winter goes with two opens... Drive, play, experiment, learn. Snow is new to me. But I fully understand why I want a Torsen. I will start with one of those next winter.

Any reason come Torsen time, _not_ to go with an Eaton TrueTrac?

-Peter

 

[CDW6212R]

Yep. Torsen was and stil is my plan. I want to see how this winter goes with two opens... Drive, play, experiment, learn. Snow is new to me. But I fully understand why I want a Torsen. I will start with one of those next winter.

Any reason come Torsen time, _not_ to go with an Eaton TrueTrac?

-Peter

Buy the True Trac for the rear 8.8, it's stronger than the Torsen, and not as expensive. When I bought my rear Torsen's, they were only $450, the 2nd one I got on eBay for about $275. Now they are way too high, and the True Trac is about $500 last I checked.

 

[imp]

Yep. Torsen was and stil is my plan. I want to see how this winter goes with two opens... Drive, play, experiment, learn. Snow is new to me. But I fully understand why I want a Torsen. I will start with one of those next winter.

Any reason come Torsen time, _not_ to go with an Eaton TrueTrac?

-Peter

@pcrussell50

If this video embeds, and you are adequately familiar with the Torsen, you will easily see that they are essentially the same. Eaton bought copyright rights, then built their own, possibly compromising some areas of strength (or maybe not!)

 

[imp]

Yep. Torsen was and stil is my plan. I want to see how this winter goes with two opens... Drive, play, experiment, learn. Snow is new to me. But I fully understand why I want a Torsen. I will start with one of those next winter.

Any reason come Torsen time, _not_ to go with an Eaton TrueTrac?

-Peter

@pcrussell50

If this video embeds, and you are adequately familiar with the Torsen, you will easily see that they are essentially the same. Eaton bought copyright rights, then built their own, possibly compromising some areas of strength (or maybe not!)