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97 Explorer Transfer case question

fordexplorerdude97

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City, State
Newtown, CT
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Explorer XLT
Hello

When I purchased my 97 Explorer SOHC , the owner told me that the car was locked in 2wd and the transfer case was unplugged, ( I think the person that was supposed to fix it didn't know what he was doing and messed it up) Anyway, I'm thinking of removing the transfer case and opening it up to see what is wrong and fix it. Are transfer cases complicated? Can someone without any prior experience fix them?
 



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Why don't you try plugging it back in, to see what it does? The transfer case has an electronic clutch to got into 4wd, so it might not be something mechanical.
 






Why don't you try plugging it back in, to see what it does? The transfer case has an electronic clutch to got into 4wd, so it might not be something mechanical.


I took it to a transmission place once so they check what is wrong and they said when they plugged it in, the transfer case motor turned but nothing happened, I was too scared to try it my self since I thought I can make things worse.
 






The transfer case motor is only involved when the transfer case is told to go into 4LO. If all you need is to get into 4HI, the shift motor is not needed, but you must still plug the electrical connector because the "brown wire" runs on that connector and it is the "brown wire" that allows the transfer case to engage 4wd.
 






The transfer case motor is only involved when the transfer case is told to go into 4LO. If all you need is to get into 4HI, the shift motor is not needed, but you must still plug the electrical connector because the "brown wire" runs on that connector and it is the "brown wire" that allows the transfer case to engage 4wd.

But would that still work since my transfer case has a problem?
 






What we are trying to say is that it could be many things, you have to plug it in, and see what it does/doesn't do and post it up before anyone can diagnose what is wrong with it.
 






Ditto... without knowing what's wrong with it or what it's doing, we can't tell you what the problem might be or how to fix it. The only way to know is to plug it in and see what it does.

-Joe
 






ok I plugged it back in and when I choose 4WD High, and when I start moving I start to hear this sound like Really old breaks hitting together, Is this because the fork shift is installed the wrong way? What do you think it is?
 






Are you engaging 4HI while on dry pavement? Cauz you shouldnt -- it'll destroy the transfer case.

How do you know the shift fork isnt installed properly?
 






Are you engaging 4HI while on dry pavement? Cauz you shouldnt -- it'll destroy the transfer case.

How do you know the shift fork isnt installed properly?

yea I did it on kinda dry pavement it rained couple of hours a go, but it was almost dry, but is the sound normal? cause the faster I went the sound got more, so I only stayed in 4WD for 10 seconds

Edit: The reason I thought its installed incorrectly is because 2 people told me that it might be, but they are not sure.
 






My money in that case would be on a bad joint in the front driveline: A bad U-joint or double-cardan joint on the front driveshaft, or a bad CV joint on one of the front halfshafts can all make that type of noise. It could be something more substantial with either the front differential or the transfer case (I know, it doesn't really narrow it down for ya'). When driving on a high-traction surface with the transfer case locked in 4wd, you get driveline bind-up. Bind-up is bad. That bind-up makes parts break.

In your case, any competent driveline or transmission shop should be able to accurately diagnose the problem in a matter of minutes. Accurately diagnosing it remotely via the 'net is almost impossible.
 






Noise

I disagree with the above diagnostics because the front axle driveline is moving regardless of Auto4WD / 4x4Hi position. If you think about it it´s only the electromechanical clutch (that locks 100% of the time in 4x4Hi) that is different between the two settings. So in my opinion it must be something regarding the clutch. On my 97 I have a bad CV joint on the front driveshaft and the clicking/popping/breaking-something-soon-sound is present regardless of transfercase setting.

And driving in 4x4Hi doesn´t brake anything unless you make a turn. Driving straight ahead does no harm.
 






I disagree with the above diagnostics because the front axle driveline is moving regardless of Auto4WD / 4x4Hi position. If you think about it it´s only the electromechanical clutch
But see when the vehicle is not in 4wd, there is no torque being applied on the CV so if it is indeed the CV thats on its way out, then the balls in the CV are not skipping and moving around when not in 4wd mode.
 






I just came back from the shop, the person did not let me show it to him on the road, he just jacked the whole car up and tested it, when the car was jacked up, there was no sound, and only the front passenger wheel and the back driver's wheel was spinning at most times. Is that normal?

After some more testing he told me its because my front tires are bigger than my back tires.

Could he be right?

I had the exact tires on my dad's 96 explorer and it never made any noise.
 






Ditto. When the transfer case is NOT locked, there is no significant torque applied to the driveline components. Yes, they are turning, but they are turning freely. A bearing, u-joint, or CV-joint can seem fine when moving under a very minimal load, but can make one helluva racket when you get a bit of driveline bind-up, or apply some power to it.
 






Indeed, if the back tires are larger than the front tires (or vice-versa) the 4wd system will see the difference in teh wheel speeds. When the difference in wheel speeds exceeds the parameters for the system, it determines that one or more of the wheels is 'slipping' and engages the 4 wheel drive. It doesn't know that the wheels are different sizes. It thinks the wheels are the same size, and slippage is the only thing that explains the difference in wheel speeds.

So, with that in mind, you need to replace the odd-sized tires and make them all the same size. That's important on a 4wd or all wheel drive system.

-Joe
 






Indeed, if the back tires are larger than the front tires (or vice-versa) the 4wd system will see the difference in teh wheel speeds. When the difference in wheel speeds exceeds the parameters for the system, it determines that one or more of the wheels is 'slipping' and engages the 4 wheel drive. It doesn't know that the wheels are different sizes. It thinks the wheels are the same size, and slippage is the only thing that explains the difference in wheel speeds.

So, with that in mind, you need to replace the odd-sized tires and make them all the same size. That's important on a 4wd or all wheel drive system.

-Joe

I see, when you said the cv-joint should only make sound when there is power applied to it, is it possible that not enough power was applied to it when it was jacked up? That wheel is also harder than the other wheels and it uses more break pad. I don't know if that matters.

If I try it on snow, should it still make the sound or will it be fine on snow?
 






I will buy 2 tires just like my new tires so I can start using my 4WD :D Thanks a lot guys for all your suggestions :)

If it wasn't for you guys my transfer case would still be unplugged
 






I checked my tire numbers and they where both P235 but they are different brands , but I jacked up the car and measured it all around and the back wheel was 88.3 Inches and the front was 90 Inches, Would that much difference cause the 4X4 to be unusable?
 



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ok I took it to another shop and he did a better job at testing it, he took it for a test drive and did some checks and he said its most likely the bearing and the chain in the transfer case and he said it would cost me $1000 to rebuilt the transfer case :confused: Is it hard to change those parts myself?
 






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