97 FORD EXPLORER lost power running rough

[jermsimp]

Help!!! I'm new to the group but I'm having serious car problems, I have an 97 Ford Explorer 5.0 with 120,000 plus miles. the truck been running perfect until about a week ago, it done lost power and it rev up to about 4000 rpm to get to 20mph I had spark plugs and wires changed bout a month ago but I think he did something wrong because the same day I got it back I was driving and one of the wires popped off went back up there he put it back on then just Saturday notice the same thing happen again but don't know how long I been driving with it off. I changed the plug but it doing the same thing, changed the camshaft sensor and shaft cause that's the code I got but still running bad. do you think it jump time or what, I just don't know what it is. someone please lead me in the right direction. could it be the coil packs? Mass air flow sensor? clogged cat? ide control valve oh and its also running hot now!!!!

 

[koda2000]

1. 120,000 miles on a 5.0L V8 is nothing.
2. The OHV engines to not suffer from "jumping time" like the SOHC V6's
3. How does the engine run/sound in neutral? You say you had to rev it to 4k just to go 20 MPH. If that's happening you have a transmission issue. Have you checked the trans fluid level? If the fluid level is very low the trans will slip.
4. Spark plug wires (when installed on the plug properly) should not come off easily. They click on to the top of the plug and require a decent amount of effort to pull off. What brand of plug wires were installed?
5. Did you change the cam sensor or the entire cam synchronizer? Why did you change it? Did you change it or did a mechanic change it? There's a specific procedure that must be followed to change it correctly.

Stop panicking and try to think logically about what you're experiencing. Start by checking the transmission fluid level.

 

[jermsimp]

I changed the cam sensor and synchronizer because the sensor was broke and the half moon on the cam shaft was bent, don't know if I done it right. the transmission fluid is full and its not that, when the truck is in neutral it running rough the whole truck is shacking. don't know what brand the wires are but on the wire it say 8mm high suppressor and platinum plugs. when I put the truck in drive it sputter and then rev up barely taking off then it act like it want to clear up but don't, when I get it up to about 30mph and press the gas it loses power then act like it want to go its sputters and it running hot without the temp hand reading it. really dnt know what it is!!! HELP

 

[koda2000]

I changed the cam sensor and synchronizer because the sensor was broke and the half moon on the cam shaft was bent, don't know if I done it right. the transmission fluid is full and its not that, when the truck is in neutral it running rough the whole truck is shacking. don't know what brand the wires are but on the wire it say 8mm high suppressor and platinum plugs. when I put the truck in drive it sputter and then rev up barely taking off then it act like it want to clear up but don't, when I get it up to about 30mph and press the gas it loses power then act like it want to go its sputters and it running hot without the temp hand reading it. really dnt know what it is!!! HELP

Exactly how did you change the cam synchronizer? You can't just pull out the old one and insert the new one. There is a specific procedure required and a special tool. Doing this incorrectly would make your engine run like crap.

Read this:
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89670

 

[jermsimp]

before I took the old one out I mark the position it was in but I didn't have the special tool to go on top of the camshaft to hold it in place. the car was running like crap before I took the old one out and with the new one its doing the same thing. do you think it went back in wrong? if so do you think it messed up the timing and how can I fix it? I know a little something about cars but nothing major and I really don't have the money to send it to the shop so I'm going to try to fix it myself money tight. Thanks for all the help in advance!!!!

 

[gatzdon]

Have you tried pulling the extended codes with Forscan Lite? Might give a clue as to where to start looking.

 

[koda2000]

If I were you I'd get the tool and follow the procedure mentioned in the link I provided. While the cam synchronizer looks like the bottom of a old fashioned distributor, it's function is much different. It sends signals to the PCM to tell it when to fire the fuel injectors. If you don't install it correctly you'll put fuel into the engine at the wrong time. This will make it run like crap (if at all). You can borrow the special tool from most auto parts stores with a deposit, but you must also have cylinder #1 at TDC on the compression stroke to install the cam synchronizer correctly.

 

[jermsimp]

what is the different between the compression stroke and the pistion stroke??? I take the number 1 plug out and make sure it all the way up, I do it by putting a extention in the hole and when it push it out , mean its all the way up. is that the right way to do it????

 

[koda2000]

what is the different between the compression stroke and the pistion stroke??? I take the number 1 plug out and make sure it all the way up, I do it by putting a extention in the hole and when it push it out , mean its all the way up. is that the right way to do it????

Your truck has a 4-stroke engine. Suck, squeeze, bang and blow. This means in one cycle the piston reaches TDC twice. Once on the compression stroke and once on the exhaust stroke.

Remove the number one spark plug and have a buddy turn the engine over using the crankshaft pulley bolt (easier to turn if you remove all the plugs). While turning the engine over, put your finger over the number one spark plug hole. As the piston is coming up on the compression stroke you'll feel the air blowing out of the spark plug hole. When the piston is 100% up, that's TDC of the compression stroke. This can be measured by sticking something in spark plug hole (stick, screw driver, socket extension, whatever).

Older engines had timing marks on the crank damper and a pointer to help find TDC. I honestly don't know if engines w/out distributors still have these. I don't recall seeing one when I had my last 5.0L apart, but it's not necessary to find TDC.

 

[jermsimp]

Thanks will let you know the out come tomorrow!!!!!

 

[jermsimp]

More problems!!!!!

it worked out with the camshaft thanks but now I have another problem with my cat on the passage side. the manifold turn cherry red all way down to the first cat but its only on that side. the computer say catalyst, evap system, 02 sensor, 02 sensor heater. its two on one pipe so which is which? will it be okay if I rod the cat out and get it put back together or should I cut it off and go with straight pipe in the place of the cat?

 

[jermsimp]

help

 

[Highflow50]

Sounds like the cat is clogged. Don't hollow out the cat not only is that illegal but the engine will run terrible.

 

[Highflow50]

It could also be a coil pack issue. However check the routing of the spark plug wires the guy who did them for you could have put the wrong wire to the wrong plug.