'97 Ranger running hot at freeway speeds

[csxfbird]

Hello everyone, just registered with the forums, but have read many threads on this forum by doing Google searches while fixing various issues with my 97 Ranger, 2WD, auto, 3.0 V6. The main problem I'm having is that it runs hot at freeway speeds, but it doesn't overheat to the point where the coolant will boil over and blow the cap off (the temperature needle moves up to and stays at just under the "H" mark). Around town, the gauge stays right in the middle, at a normal operating temperature. So far, I've replaced the thermostat, water pump, and had the cooling system flushed out, all to no avail. I changed the oil to check for coolant in the oil, thinking maybe it had a bad head gasket, but the oil was fine. I turned the clutch fan by hand, and it does seem to have an adequate amount of resistance, but even if it wasn't working 100% properly, I don't believe the extra air it would suck in would matter at freeway speeds. So basically the only cooling system component that hasn't been replaced is the radiator (well, and the fan). Is it possible that this is my problem? Or is there a sensor or something else I should check/replace before dropping the money on a radiator? Thanks for your time guys.

 

[mawrazen]

Try a coolant additive, it wont cure the problem but it will help.

I have seen a product discussed on this forum called "water wetter".

I have also seen it on the shelve of my local Auto Zone. It is about $7 and will reduce the coolant temp by about 20 degrees. I also saw a product in a yellow tin with black lettering next to it. (Don't remember the name) It was about $18 and claimed to solve overheating issues by reducing the temp by 50 degrees or so.

Good luck!

I hope you can find one af these products at your local auto parts store. I will be looking for them myself to help tow a boat about 900 miles this week.

 

[RangerX]

I would suspect the radiator. Your truck is 10 years old, and the radiator is half plastic.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[csxfbird]

I have seen a product discussed on this forum called "water wetter".

I have also seen it on the shelve of my local Auto Zone. It is about $7 and will reduce the coolant temp by about 20 degrees. I also saw a product in a yellow tin with black lettering next to it. (Don't remember the name) It was about $18 and claimed to solve overheating issues by reducing the temp by 50 degrees or so.

Good luck!

I hope you can find one af these products at your local auto parts store. I will be looking for them myself to help tow a boat about 900 miles this week.

I'm an avid fan of Water Wetter, as a matter of fact I run it in my Firebird and motorcycle, and I did indeed put a bottle of it into the truck when I flushed the cooling system. Although it did seem to increase the amount of time it took the gauge to reach the "H", it didn't solve the overheating issue.

 

[csxfbird]

I would suspect the radiator. Your truck is 10 years old, and the radiator is half plastic.

Welcome to the forum.

Yea, I'm starting to think that's the culprit as well, especially being that everything else has been replaced. Any recommendations on where to find the best price on one? And thanks for the welcome.

 

[RangerX]

I called around in the yellow pages when I needed one, and found a place that just sells radiators. Too bad it's here in San Diego.

 

[dla]

I'm just looking at the front of my 2007 ranger, and the radiator looks like it holds about one Super Big Gulp of coolant. Maybe that's normal for Ford - cheap as they are. So it wouldn't suprize me that the radiator could be clogged after 10 years.

However, I find it odd that your car runs cooler in town, when you have less airflow, than on the highway where you would have more airflow. It sure sounds like a water restriction though, and you've already replaced the thermostat, so I guess the radiator is next.

 

[Vinniety]

I'm just looking at the front of my 2007 ranger, and the radiator looks like it holds about one Super Big Gulp of coolant. Maybe that's normal for Ford - cheap as they are. So it wouldn't suprize me that the radiator could be clogged after 10 years.

However, I find it odd that your car runs cooler in town, when you have less airflow, than on the highway where you would have more airflow. It sure sounds like a water restriction though, and you've already replaced the thermostat, so I guess the radiator is next.

I also find it weird to run cooler in town but it might be like others indicated the radiator being dirty (Clogged) restricting the amount of air flow at higher speeds. It is blocking it more then letting the air threw. Why dont you do what i do with my atv. My atv has a radiator and i always washed it down after riding it in mud and dirt but a friend told me that i needed more pressure to actually let the water get in there and get it cleaned. Anyway after a ride once i cleaned the bike like regular and it looked clean. I then got my pressure washer and washed down the radiator and was i shocked what more crap was in there. Try cleaning the radiator with a pressure washer or go to one of those self car cleaning places those things have power and try.

Just my 2cents

 

[Az_NavajoRob]

Don't overlook the radiator cap. If the rubber gromet is damaged or missing or if the spring is fatigued the system will not pressurize. Sounds like it is your radiator, but check the cap while your at it.

 

[csxfbird]

An update, found a decent priced radiator, and replaced it...night and day difference. The truck runs ridiculously cool now, even on 110 degree+ days. Which I'd hope, being that I've pretty much replaced every component of the cooling system. : Thanks again for all your help and input.

 

[TbearMN]

Temp issues

I am new to the site as well and was browsing issues that i thought might be related to my problem and yours seems to be close to mine as well.

i have a 2002 Ranger XLT and the guage took a dump and had to replace the therm and the sensor unit and hoses and while i had it out, i replaced the belts as well. First thing i noticed was that the temp guage worked but ran a fraction higher on the guage than it did before. I thought to myself."self... maybe its because i moved from MN to Phoenix Az and its warmer," but i was transferred to Tulsa OK and noticed that on the trip, it stayed the same but never spiked until i got here. When its 90 degrees and over outside, my temp guage spikes and then goes down- over and over and over but when the temp is below 90 it functions back to the middle again. Funny though that it never actually went back down to where it was before the guage stopped working. I did remove some debris when i changed out everything-so reading the posts in here, it sounds as though my radiator might be holding the clue as to why its not working back at the range it was when i bought the truck. Others have suggested its the thermostat or the temp sensor but im really thinking now its the radiator.

 

[Tbars4]

...tbearmn, it almost sounds normal on your truck...if you had parts failing before and put in new units maybe you are getting a more accurate reading now....the up and down reading would be your thermostat working normally but if you notice a definate difference, you can call around to different radiator shops and ask what they would charge for a rod out??? they more or less completly clean and fix your radiator for 65-100 bucks or so and it's like brand new...i also like to suggest replacing the heater core at the same time...i hope this helps...