97 UK Spec EX (Not PATS) Will Not Start

[jonsco]

Hi, power off battery 30 min & reconnect, alarm doesn't sound.

Battery & Check Gauge Light on all the time before starting and with a fully charged new battery, Battery Voltage Gauge is showing nearly half way on display.

Imobilizer dash light never on.

Locking doesn't work or cycle from single button Bosch remote. Remote is working, new battery, LED flashing. Central locking works from inside door switch.

Shorted solenoid terminals and engine will turn over but not fire. try with the key and just a click from under the hood.

Any Help Please

Thanks

 

[Ilikemice]

I'm guessing that when you short the solenoid the engine won't fire because the anti-theft is stopping the fuel pump from turning on.

I was trying to track down a no-start on mine and thought it was the anti-theft but when I stuck the key in and disarmed the anti-theft the pump would start up but I'd get a single click from under the hood. Turns out it was a dodgy starter.

Try using the key fob near the rear of the car or in the boot. I can't be of any more help... the anti-theft system baffles me.

 

[cjones101812]

have you tried unlocking the driver's door with the key?? (don't use the remote)

if that doesn't work then the RAP module may be bad. the Imobilizer dash light should come on if you lock the car with the remote after 30 seconds.

NOTE: i'm using a tech cd for US vehicles.

do you get 12v to the starter solenoid on the R/LB wire (14 gauge).

 

[jonsco]

Hi, Thanks for looking, drivers door key lock has never worked, it's seized. don't know about the R/LB wire. Have had an autoelectrician look at it with his Snap-on diagnostics, but he had trouble getting any readings.
I have bought a working pcm & imobil & remote to try, What I don't get is, disconnecting & reconnecting the battery always used to sound the alarm then cancel it with the remote. but it don't make a sound now.

 

[cjones101812]

when you say..."Have had an autoelectrician look at it with his Snap-on diagnostics, but he had trouble getting any readings" do you mean he is unable to communicate with the PCM to get diagnostic codes??

what you call imobil are you refering to the RAP (Remote Anti-Theft Personality module)?

BTW when i asked..."do you get 12v to the starter solenoid on the R/LB wire (14 gauge)." that is with the key in the START position

also, have you check the fuses?? #20 7.5Amp in the Interior fuse panel and # 20Amp in the Power Distribution Box(under the hood, bonnet)

 

[Blee1099]

I would check for fuel pressure before going any further. There is a shrader valve on the fuel rail, you can press it down and see if you get fuel.. If there is none, then you have fuel issues. Just make sure your wearing protective eyewear when testing.

 

[jonsco]

Hi Both, thanks for your help. He couldn't get any response, it threw a comms error after around 10 mins scanning.
I don't think mine has a RAP. the owners guide calls it "Anti Theft Alarm System/Engine Immobilisation System. The key isn't chipped.
The autoelectrician checked all the fuses, all ok.
Fitted the replacement PCM, Imobilisation unit with matched single button remote, but it didn't work. The alarm doesn't go off and the Imobiliser won't release.

John

 

[cjones101812]

with the replacement PCM installed was the autoeletrician able to communicate with the PCM and get codes??

if not, check fuse #11 Maxi 20Amp and Fuse #2 Maxi 30Amp and fuse #11 Mini 15Amp in Power Dist Box. check the fuses for power on both sides with the fuses plugged in and the key in RUN position. if 12v then check PCM Pin#71 Red, Pin#97 Red and Pin#55 Yel with key in RUN position.

also, have him check for computer ground by voltage drop test at the TPS. TPS disconnected, should be no more 0.05v between TPS ground and battery ground.


BTW. the RAP and "Anti Theft Alarm System/Engine Immobilisation System" are the same basic thing just different wording.

 

[Blee1099]

Like I said before check for fuel pressure or actual delivery of fuel.. If you don't hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to on, then chances are its a fuel issue whether the fuel pump interrupt has been tripped or the PCM or fuel pump relay is bad.

 

[Stenasev]

Fitted the replacement PCM, Imobilisation unit with matched single button remote, but it didn't work. The alarm doesn't go off and the Imobiliser won't release.

John

Hi,

Was it the PCM that was replaced (engine bay) or the immobiliser ECU which is in the rear load area? Common fault is to replace the PCM thinking it controls the immobiliser which it doesn't on pre PATS cars.

SS

 

[jonsco]

Hi
I bought the PCM & immobiliser ECU & single button remote from chrisquelch, figuring that as they all came out of the same truck they should recognise each other, and work.
John

 

[Stenasev]

Hi
I bought the PCM & immobiliser ECU & single button remote from chrisquelch, figuring that as they all came out of the same truck they should recognise each other, and work.
John

Hi,

The PCM is irrelevent as it has nothing to do with the early immobilisers.

Just swapping the immobiliser unit wouldn't work as it would have to be coded to the fuel pump immobiliser relay as well. However the engine should turn over and alarm functions should work so it sounds like you have further issues.

It is fairly easy to bypass all the alarm/immobiliser if you are just interested in getting the vehicle running!

SS

 

[jonsco]

Hi
I did think there was something else, but if you can tell me how to bypass so at least it is not confusing things. Living on the North Yorkshire Coast it is difficult to find anyone who is capable of working on the Ex.
Any help would really be appreciated.
Thanks
John