How to: 98 5.0 AWD Auto to 5spd M5R2 and 4406 M

[speedo1]

Tranny ??

Just curious, would an M5R2 5-speed from an 89 3.8 SC T-bird work? Same tranny?

 

[hopps]

I think it will bolt up but I believe that earlier in this thread they found that the shifter would be in the wrong spot...like you would have to really cut into the transmission tunnel and it would come up in the middle of the console...

 

[Nick26]

Assuming you would be going 2wd... based on this picture from here:
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12how-to/m5r2_rebuild/m5r2-rebuild-howto.html

I think you would have the opposite problem and the shifter would be way too far back compared to the M5R2 i used(attached).

 

[hopps]

Yea, I meant center console...with as far back as that is, if you had an extra cab ranger or a bronco II you could have your passengers shift for you from the back seat it seems

 

[Nick26]

Yea, I meant center console...with as far back as that is, if you had an extra cab ranger or a bronco II you could have your passengers shift for you from the back seat it seems

oh yeah, i meant opposite problem from the early f150 M5R2's where it came up under the dash.

 

[masterbeatty]

i have a question. im going to be getting a 96 explorer what do i need to do as far as the speedo and tune to get this to work?

 

[Nick26]

i have a question. im going to be getting a 96 explorer what do i need to do as far as the speedo and tune to get this to work?

First you need to do a bunch of reading... I don't know much about the 96's you'll have to look up fortune410 thread about getting the 4406M working in his 96. And the only thing I've confirmed you need the tune for is to remove all the check engine lights. Here are the CEL's I had removed with my tune: P0708, P0713, P0720, P0743, P0750, P0755, P1702, P1746

Also don't use Bama chips, their customer service is terrible, and you will have to call them for this at least once.

 

[crazyflights]

Love it!

 

[Justawajz]

Hey Nick, I did the same swap following in your footsteps on my merc and it runs great! Just wondering how yours is holding up? If you had any issues later down the road. BTW great walkthough.. I could of never hoped to do this with out all your information. Only snag I has was my linkage for my 4406 I had on with the auto didnt line up right after the trans swap. I had to drill new holes to move the shifter assembley forward on the trans.

 

[Mounty 09]

Hey Nick, I did the same swap following in your footsteps on my merc and it runs great! Just wondering how yours is holding up? If you had any issues later down the road. BTW great walkthough.. I could of never hoped to do this with out all your information. Only snag I has was my linkage for my 4406 I had on with the auto didnt line up right after the trans swap. I had to drill new holes to move the shifter assembley forward on the trans.

I did this swap on a 97 with the auto trans and had to move the shifter assembly also. I can't remember if I had to move it forward or back though.

 

[Justawajz]

I did this swap on a 97 with the auto trans and had to move the shifter assembly also. I can't remember if I had to move it forward or back though.

Ok thanks, I was just checking if anyone else ran into the same issue.

 

[Nick26]

Hey Nick, I did the same swap following in your footsteps on my merc and it runs great! Just wondering how yours is holding up? If you had any issues later down the road. BTW great walkthough.. I could of never hoped to do this with out all your information. Only snag I has was my linkage for my 4406 I had on with the auto didnt line up right after the trans swap. I had to drill new holes to move the shifter assembley forward on the trans.

Hey Man, great to know! I was lucky enough to have the shift linkage still bolted to the transmission when i bought it, so I guess i happened to get the right one for that transmission.

 

[damarble]

Say Nick, could you grab some measurements for me? How far from the front edge of the bellhousing to the center of the shifter? And how much space is between your t-case and driver's frame at the narrowest spot? Thanks.

 

[Nick26]

Say Nick, could you grab some measurements for me? How far from the front edge of the bellhousing to the center of the shifter? And how much space is between your t-case and driver's frame at the narrowest spot? Thanks.

Sure, I'll try to do that this weekend...

 

[Nick26]

Say Nick, could you grab some measurements for me? How far from the front edge of the bellhousing to the center of the shifter? And how much space is between your t-case and driver's frame at the narrowest spot? Thanks.

sorry I forgot about this.... i just measured and it's about 15-16" from the bellhousing to the shifter and the tcase is about an inch and a quarter at it's closet point.

 

[damarble]

Thanks. Too big for me. Here's hoping a Jeep/Ford NP208 hybrid fits...

 

[kltmx3]

This thread was a big inspiration when I started my Ranger V8 swap in the beginning of 2010.

I figured I would shed some light on the auto->manual using the factory 98 auto ECU.

The hesitation you are describing is something I have been battling for a LONG time myself.

I used resistors instead of a tune to fix all my check engine lights for the missing auto trans and had a random hesitation when climbing hills at low rpm's and sometimes when just driving around town.

Removing the VSS signal and OSS signals FIXED the issue completely.

As of tonight I had a custom tune made from DirtyDirtyRacing with Sniper Delta Forces to basically eliminate all the auto trans codes.

Now my hesitations are gone. In fact, even when I reconnect the VSS, the hesitations still do not come back- this was not the case before.

Anyways just thought I'd share my sigh of relief, experience, and say thanks for posting this thread! It was a huge help in my project.

 

[Nick26]

Thanks a lot for posting, I'm glad it helped you out! It'd be great to see what resistor values you used where to get rid of the check engine lights, and pictures if you have them?

I think in my case the hesitation problem is related to my MAF or I had 2 things causing a very similar problem at the same time, because my VSS wire is cut near the PCM and I was able to cause the problem to happen the other day by spraying down the sensor with MAF cleaner. Then after i let it dry out it's been running perfectly no hiccups. So I think both my MAF was fouled and maybe I needed to cut that VSS wire, because right now it is the first time it's been running pretty consistently smooth. I have a KKM air filter on my truck that's meant for a 4.0 and it's getting kind of dirty, and the fabric on is starting to fall apart a little, so that could be whats causing the MAF to get dirty.

 

[kltmx3]

I used alldata pro for the wiring diagrams and I have them saved on my computer.

For the DTR sensor, I used a 270 ohm resistor and the schematic to simulate drive.
For the TFT, I used a 30k ohm resistor.
For the OSS, I wired it into my T5 VSS wires
For the VSS, I pulled the grey/black signal wire from the GEM module on my truck
For the shift solenoids, I used 10 or 15W, 25 ohm resistors
For the TCC solenoid, I used a 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor
For the EPC solenoid, I used a 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor

Note: This killed all the trans codes, but it had a strange hesitation.

I have since disconnected everything except the DTR resistor and the VSS signal.

I had a tune made to delete all the other codes.

This fixed the hesitation.

It runs great now. I can provide further details/diagrams if anyone needs. The only way to proerly do this is a chip or custom tune. The resistors only get you so far. I can make a custom chip with tune of your choice specifically for the auto->manual conversions

As soon as the weather gets nicer I will snap some new pictures and make a video.

Here's my build thread (nowhere NEAR updated) http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?266510-Twin-turbo-5.0L-98-Ranger

 

[blazin8556]

what ever happened with filming a vid of this 5 speed v8. i am gonna start getting parts together to attempt this soon, this is an awesome swap.