koda2000
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This is false. Brakes are a sealed system. It is impossible for a hydraulic system to function if not sealed.
This system does not need flushed every couple years. This Great Urban Myth has persisted for far too long.
At most you might have a leaking or negative pressure valve in your master cylinder reservoir, or some other brake component fault that lets air in (but if you do, your brake pressure is shot so this is a last day you brake before braking is lost, scenario), and over many years this adds a little bit of moisture.
That little bit of moisture, may cause brake pressure loss in extreme conditions that cause the small amount of water to boil, but because brake fluid is hygroscopic, it greatly retards the effects of rust because the tiny amount of water present is spread throughout the entire braking system instead of pooling in one area where it would do more harm.
Brake flushes are a waste of money. Do one when you replace a component and have reason to believe there is debris in the system as a result, or if you are racing and a little water under severe conditions will degrade the braking performance that was already marginal for the activity.
There is far too much evidence from the millions of vehicles on the road, that brake fluid does not need flushed except in extreme conditions. This also assumes that when it was added, it was a fresh container not one sitting half empty and open too long to absorb moisture before it was even put into the sealed braking system.
Over 20+ years of owning my Explorer, it has had no brake flushes, and no braking problems. Finally a year ago the rear axle line rusted from the outside, and leaked, and I put new lines on, and flushed it.
This is typical for every vehicle I've owned and worked on. I see no evidence at all that brake flushes are necessary for water retention except in extreme racing conditions. If we were talking about preserving a 50 year old classic car worth $50K, maybe then change the fluid just as a burden but not because it needed it.
Moister contamination in brake fluid (or any hydraulic fluid) is most certainly not NOT a myth. You are wrong. Moister gets into the system every time the cap on the master cylinder is opened. it also gets in by going right through the rubber hoses. As moister accumulates in the brake fluid the boiling temp of the fluid is lowered. This is felt in brake fade as the fluid boils at a lower temp. Also internal brake parts begin to rust. To eliminate this you can switch to silicon brake fluid, but this requires replacing all of the brake system components, because the silicon fluid is not compatible with regular brake fluid. I've restored/repaired many classic vehicles and what happens to the brake fluid over decades is quite disgusting. This is not only due to moister accumulation, but also to deterioration of rubber seals. It even seems to eventually crystallize if not maintained. After replacing all the brake system parts I use silicon brake fluid in my classic vehicles.
Like any fluid used in a vehicle brake fluid should be replaced periodically. Every 2-3 years (or 30,000 miles) is recommended. Running the same brake fluid in a vehicle for 20 years is not wise. You may get away with it, but your braking performance is compromised whether you realize it or not. Would you recommend not changing engine oil, trans fluid, gear oil or power steering fluid for 20 years?
Don't believe me? Do some research on the subject. Most manufactures (granted not all) recommend changing brake fluid every 2-3 years. Brake fluid is inexpensive and fairly easy to flush, as long as you don't get air in the ABS pump. Why not change it?