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98 Explorer cranks doesn’t start security light flashing

Redlines2525

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City, State
Novato CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Explorer Eddie Bauer
Just got a 98 4.0 SOHC Eddie Bauer from my neighbor with 70k, original owner.
It has one factory key and one copy both appear to be big head keys. It has been sitting for about 5-7 years.
It cranks fine but has security light flashing so PAT'S problem I assume.
 



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Welcome to the forum!

The PATS light normally blinks slow (even with no key inserted) and then blinks rapidly if the right key chip is not detected when you try to start it. Is this what is happening?

There is a lengthy topic on this forum linked below, or you can program in keys (starting with none or only 1 since the owner's manual method requires 2) using an ELM327 based OBD2 dongle (for example a BAFX on amazon) linked to a windows host device (like a tablet or laptop, USB, wifi, or bluetooth linked depending on dongle and host connection capability) to run Forscan app. Forscan also has an android app but I think only the windows version can program keys and "might' require the full license which you can request on Forscan's site.




There may be newer related topics on forscan's forum, or even youtube videos showing the process.

While this does require the OBD2 dongle, I would highly advise getting one if you don't have one because this can save a lot of money and gray hair in making an older vehicle more cost effective to keep running well. Forscan is the preferred app, has far more Ford specific features than more popular OBD2 dongle apps like Torque.

If it won't reprogram the keys at all, it could be that your PATS transponder module in the steering column, or the wiring to it is damaged. You can take the column cover off and inspect it but if nothing obvious is seen, then it becomes more apparent when trying to program the keys, that it can't see them to program in at all.

There are other potential faults like bad wiring, connector to, or the ECU itself but these are less likely, so basically I've mentioned things in the order I would try to resolve this.

If the programming attempts don't work, another useful resource is the wiring diagrams linked in my sig below. Keep in mind that some parts like the transponder, might be very inexpensive from a junkyard or junkyard pull on ebay/etc, but pretty expensive to have a dealer do for you or even buy the part new.

Before I towed it to a dealer, I'd call a few locksmiths as some will be mobile, have the ability to come on-site and program in keys, but be sure to mention that it's a '98 with PATS2, doesn't recognize ANY keys currently so they know they have to have a dongle or scan tool/appliance to program the keys instead of just doing what is in the owner's manual or cloning a working key. Depending on the area, this service is roughly $200... bound to be cheaper than a dealer + tow charge.
 






Your computer has lost its programming, most likely. You’ll need to do as above with FORScan, or have a locksmith come out and program it for you.

Put the fuses back in, you aren’t going to defeat the PATS security unless you get a custom tune and remove it.
 






Welcome to the forum!

The PATS light normally blinks slow (even with no key inserted) and then blinks rapidly if the right key chip is not detected when you try to start it. Is this what is happening?

There is a lengthy topic on this forum linked below, or you can program in keys (starting with none or only 1 since the owner's manual method requires 2) using an ELM327 based OBD2 dongle (for example a BAFX on amazon) linked to a windows host device (like a tablet or laptop, USB, wifi, or bluetooth linked depending on dongle and host connection capability) to run Forscan app. Forscan also has an android app but I think only the windows version can program keys and "might' require the full license which you can request on Forscan's site.




There may be newer related topics on forscan's forum, or even youtube videos showing the process.

While this does require the OBD2 dongle, I would highly advise getting one if you don't have one because this can save a lot of money and gray hair in making an older vehicle more cost effective to keep running well. Forscan is the preferred app, has far more Ford specific features than more popular OBD2 dongle apps like Torque.

If it won't reprogram the keys at all, it could be that your PATS transponder module in the steering column, or the wiring to it is damaged. You can take the column cover off and inspect it but if nothing obvious is seen, then it becomes more apparent when trying to program the keys, that it can't see them to program in at all.

There are other potential faults like bad wiring, connector to, or the ECU itself but these are less likely, so basically I've mentioned things in the order I would try to resolve this.

If the programming attempts don't work, another useful resource is the wiring diagrams linked in my sig below. Keep in mind that some parts like the transponder, might be very inexpensive from a junkyard or junkyard pull on ebay/etc, but pretty expensive to have a dealer do for you or even buy the part new.

Before I towed it to a dealer, I'd call a few locksmiths as some will be mobile, have the ability to come on-site and program in keys, but be sure to mention that it's a '98 with PATS2, doesn't recognize ANY keys currently so they know they have to have a dongle or scan tool/appliance to program the keys instead of just doing what is in the owner's manual or cloning a working key. Depending on the area, this service is roughly $200... bound to be cheaper than a dealer + tow charge.

Welcome to the forum!

The PATS light normally blinks slow (even with no key inserted) and then blinks rapidly if the right key chip is not detected when you try to start it. Is this what is happening?

There is a lengthy topic on this forum linked below, or you can program in keys (starting with none or only 1 since the owner's manual method requires 2) using an ELM327 based OBD2 dongle (for example a BAFX on amazon) linked to a windows host device (like a tablet or laptop, USB, wifi, or bluetooth linked depending on dongle and host connection capability) to run Forscan app. Forscan also has an android app but I think only the windows version can program keys and "might' require the full license which you can request on Forscan's site.




There may be newer related topics on forscan's forum, or even youtube videos showing the process.

While this does require the OBD2 dongle, I would highly advise getting one if you don't have one because this can save a lot of money and gray hair in making an older vehicle more cost effective to keep running well. Forscan is the preferred app, has far more Ford specific features than more popular OBD2 dongle apps like Torque.

If it won't reprogram the keys at all, it could be that your PATS transponder module in the steering column, or the wiring to it is damaged. You can take the column cover off and inspect it but if nothing obvious is seen, then it becomes more apparent when trying to program the keys, that it can't see them to program in at all.

There are other potential faults like bad wiring, connector to, or the ECU itself but these are less likely, so basically I've mentioned things in the order I would try to resolve this.

If the programming attempts don't work, another useful resource is the wiring diagrams linked in my sig below. Keep in mind that some parts like the transponder, might be very inexpensive from a junkyard or junkyard pull on ebay/etc, but pretty expensive to have a dealer do for you or even buy the part new.

Before I towed it to a dealer, I'd call a few locksmiths as some will be mobile, have the ability to come on-site and program in keys, but be sure to mention that it's a '98 with PATS2, doesn't recognize ANY keys currently so they know they have to have a dongle or scan tool/appliance to program the keys instead of just doing what is in the owner's manual or cloning a working key. Depending on the area, this service is roughly $200... bound to be cheaper than a dealer + tow charge.
Hi thank you both for the detailed response.

The PATS/Security light does flash rapidly when cranking.
 






Yes you can reuse your existing keys, should not need new ones (unless by some freak accident, something has destroyed, or someone has removed the chips out of them, but this is a very rare thing to check last of all the rest, unless you see pry marks on the key head plastic like someone has already pulled the plug out that captures the chip inside), and yes you must have recognized/programmed keys in order to put the vehicle in a mode to program the fobs.

Holding battery cables together is unnecessary and not a good idea as it can cause a current surge, better to just leave the battery disconnected for ~10 minutes, though usually only several seconds is enough.

If you have a windows desktop PC or wifi router or access point near a window (in other words, if your phone can pickup your wifi somewhere outside), you might be able to park the vehicle there and use a wifi connected OBD2 dongle... YMMV... a dongle's wifi is probably not as good as in a phone, and with the vehicle not running you'd be pushing it. ;) Yes the BAFX wifi one you linked on Amazon should be a good choice.

I'm not sure if these blink codes are correct but this is what I found so far. 2nd pic is codes a scan tool might (or might not) show, and is far more definitive.

patscodes.png


patsdtc.png
 






Yes you can reuse your existing keys, should not need new ones, and yes you must have recognized/programmed keys in order to put the vehicle in a mode to program the fobs. Holding battery cables together is unnecessary and not a good idea as it can cause a current surge, better to just leave the battery disconnected for ~10 minutes, though usually only several seconds is enough.

If you have a windows desktop PC or wifi router or access point near a window, you might be able to park the vehicle near the window and use a wifi connected OBD2 dongle... YMMV... with it not running you'd be pushing it. ;) Yes the BAFX wifi one you linked on Amazon should be a good choice.

I'm not sure if these blink codes are correct but this is what I found so far. 2nd pic is codes a scan tool might (or might not) show, and is far more definitive.

View attachment 340089

View attachment 340090
Thanks
 






You don't need a cable or anything else, if the connection method your dongle supports, is also supported by the host (windows desktop, laptop, or tablet). So for example if you bought the bluetooth version of a dongle and your desktop didn't have bluetooth, you could add a USB bluetooth dongle to your desktop PC, or to a laptop, etc. All you need is for both the devices to support the same connection standard you want to use.

Some very conservative people suggest that the safest way to do programming is to only use a USB type dongle connected to USB input to the host, but I have not found this important as long as the dongle is decent quality so bluetooth or wifi doesn't drop out and disconnect in the middle of programming.

You can use the dongle and host device to run Forscan and see readings and that will test whether it is a sustainable, stable connection or if it is not then it is risky to proceed with programming. I have had no connection drop issues with my BAFX bluetooth version but everyone should test their own situation.

Note that you can also use that BAFX dongle with Torque demo (free version) or Torque Lite (paid version) on your android phone, but the demo version cannot clear any codes and only monitors one PID (thing) at a time, and the Lite android app version cannot program things while the Windows version can. The Windows version can even enable hidden factory features or change some functionality on newer Fords, but not so much on this generation besides programming the keys.

There's a lot more info than I know about in the Forscan forum, including people that can better help you to use it if you run into any issues. To use the OBD2 dongle on non-ford vehicles, you're probably better off using Torque app, and ironically the free version of Torque app for android devices, can reset (only) OBD2 code-realm codes, while the free version of Forscan demo cannot, but Forscan Lite (paid version) for android can. It's complicated until you do it yourself the first time then you get the gist of it.
 






Note that you can also use that BAFX dongle with Torque demo (free version) or Torque Lite (paid version) on your android phone, but the demo version cannot clear any codes and only monitors one PID (thing) at a time, and the Lite android app version cannot program things while the Windows version can. The Windows version can even enable hidden factory features or change some functionality on newer Fords, but not so much on this generation besides programming the keys.

There's a lot more info than I know about in the Forscan forum, including people that can better help you to use it if you run into any issues. To use the OBD2 dongle on non-ford vehicles, you're probably better off using Torque app, and ironically the free version of Torque app for android devices, can reset (only) OBD2 code-realm codes, while the free version of Forscan demo cannot, but Forscan Lite (paid version) for android can. It's complicated until you do it yourself the first time then you get the gist of it.

Sounds good
So only a Microsoft/Windows operating system can program keys no IOS/iPhone
 






Yes and not only the windows OS and version of the forscan app, you also need an extended license for it. Details here:

 






Yes and not only the windows OS and version of the forscan app, you also need an extended license for it. Details here:

So I was able to get the FORscan extended license and get access to the car.
It showed two keys.
The PATS codes it shows are
It shows Code B1232 Pats transceiver circuit failure a
 






The transceiver is what picks up the keys signal at the ignition.

I surely wouldn’t have erased the keys if they were programmed. You most likely have a wiring issue, or the transceiver itself has failed. It can’t pickup the keys signal, so it can’t re-add them. Showing two keys is good though, it means your second key isn’t a clone. Figure out your issue and get a third key and program it using the typical truck only procedure.
 






The transceiver is what picks up the keys signal at the ignition.

I surely wouldn’t have erased the keys if they were programmed. You most likely have a wiring issue, or the transceiver itself has failed. It can’t pickup the keys signal, so it can’t re-add them. Showing two keys is good though, it means your second key isn’t a clone. Figure out your issue and get a third key and program it using the typical truck only procedure.
Should I buy a new transceiver or just go grab a couple from the junkyard.
 






Should I buy a new transceiver or just go grab a couple from the junkyard.
I realized I shouldn't have erased the keys after I did it and I have a new Stratec blank key.
Thanks
Excellent. Reprogramming them shouldn’t be a big deal. If you have a cheap pick and pull type junkyard I might try one. I’d grab one from a 98 if possible.
 






I'd check the wiring in case it has frayed where the steering wheel tilt-adjusts, otherwise get a junkyard transceiver module. I'm not "sure" but would expect that it's the same part in any '98 thru '01 Explorers, or a '99-'00 Ranger,

It's always nice to have a 3rd key in case you lose one, then you can still program new ones the easy way in the owner's manual, but for the time being a 3rd key isn't needed, and yet, might as well program it in now if you have it.

One other thing not mentioned, and is highly unlikely, but I happen to have a keychain flashlight with a very strong rare earth magnet on it. I don't put it on my keychain because I don't want the extra weight wearing on the lock cylinder but a very strong magnet near the transceiver could interfere with proper operation, as it is an electromagnetic field produced by the transceiver which energizes the chip in the key.
 






I'd check the wiring in case it has frayed where the steering wheel tilt-adjusts, otherwise get a junkyard transceiver module. I'm not "sure" but would expect that it's the same part in any '98 thru '01 Explorers, or a '99-'00 Ranger,

It's always nice to have a 3rd key in case you lose one, then you can still program new ones the easy way in the owner's manual, but for the time being a 3rd key isn't needed, and yet, might as well program it in now if you have it.

One other thing not mentioned, and is highly unlikely, but I happen to have a keychain flashlight with a very strong rare earth magnet on it. I don't put it on my keychain because I don't want the extra weight wearing on the lock cylinder but a very strong magnet near the transceiver could interfere with proper operation, as it is an electromagnetic field produced by the transceiver which energizes the chip in the key.
Thanks for both of your responses.
 






Too many issues, wait and see how this one pans out then tackle the others. Yes you should check to see where power stops in the respective circuits.
 






I'd check the wiring in case it has frayed where the steering wheel tilt-adjusts,
I was just going to suggest this lol

I've seen it happen worth a look
 






Just got a 98 4.0 SOHC Eddie Bauer from my neighbor with 70k, original owner.
It has one factory key and one copy both appear to be big head keys. It has been sitting for about 5-7 years.
It cranks fine but has security light flashing so PAT'S problem I assume.
I have taken out both the security fuses inside and reset them.as well as the under the hood fuse box relays.
I have done the 8 key cycle reset I read about online, the up and down on the tilt steering/bang the steering column, shift threw gears.
Anyone have any other suggestions I really don't want to tow it to the dealer
Thanks
Does he have spark if it does or if it doesn't see if there's power going to the coil
 






Does he have spark if not see if you have power going to coil
 



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On your screenshot, Forscan mentioned following the routines in the service manual for the DTCs listed. I've attached the workshop manual PATS SECTION as a PDF and it links those codes B1232 and U1147 on page 2, but since this is a PDF you can't follow the blue links for those, but all you have to do is scroll down to later pages in the PDF to see where they link to.

For example the link on B1232, also mentioned B2103 and goes to the section labeled "PINPOINT TEST B2103: ANTENNA NOT CONNECTED" on page 6, and U1147 links to that section on page 26.

There's a topic on this forum somewhere, where you can get the whole workshop manual DVD ISO and instructions to install it.
 

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