98 ford explorer eddie 6-cyl sohc...no start condition..Help

[stewwalk]

Engine turning over, but will not start. Everyone once in a while you will get a sputter like it wants to, then back to the regular cranking but no starting.

here is some info....

No check engine light
Rented a fuel pressure gauge, got around 35 psi
Swapped Fuel pump relay in fuse box...relay works
Checked all fuses, none blown.
Camshaft position sensor changed.
MAF sensor cleaned.
Inertia switch not tripped.
Air manifold gasket less than a year old.
Did notice tachometer stuck on zero while cranking before and after camshaft sensor replace.

What is left?

I am pretty sure i hooked the gauge up right
Ignition issue?
Plugs?
Crankshaft Position Sensor?


I wanted to change the camshaft position sensor anyway. So i don't mind that 40 bucks, but I don't want to throw any more parts at this thing till i can get it narrowed a bit more.


Any oddball things you other owners have fixed with the no start condition.

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[2000StreetRod]

check theft light & compression

The fuel pressure at the rail is about right and eliminates the fuel pump relay, inertia switch and fuel pump. If the fuel pressure remains constant or increases when the starter is cranking that means the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor output is reaching the PCM. If the fuel pressure drops while the starter is cranking I suggest cleaning the CKP sensor by disconnecting/reconnecting the electrical connector a couple times.

I assume that the THEFT light is not rapidly blinking when the starter is cranking.

Have you tried spraying starting aerosol into the intake manifold? You can disconnect the main intake tube at the throttle body, open the throttle plate to WOT, spray the starting fluid into the manifold, then quickly reconnect the main intake tube and crank the starter. If the engine starts and runs for a second or two then you know there's ignition but no fuel injection which probably means a PATS issue.

The other thing is to check cylinder compression on one cylinder in each bank. Examine the plugs for anything unusual while they're removed. Low compression on one or two cylinders in one bank could be a blown head gasket, broken valve spring or thrown cam follower. Low compression on all cylinders in one bank probably means a slipped timing chain.

 

[MtrJunkie]

+1 on the theft light. Worked on my ex half the night til I noticed the transducer had fallen out of the key. Got the spare and vroooom. Smh

 

[stewwalk]

well starter fluid didnt do anything.. i sprayed quite a bit inside, cranked it and nothing. The last couple days upon trying to get it to start it would at least give a fake attempt to start, but now just cranking. do i need another tool to check for compression..or a code reader maybe..i didnt get any engine light..will it tell me some issues without a code?

 

[my98nnj]

Check for spark, you could have a bad coil. If the CPS is faulty, it should set a code.

 

[koda2000]

did you have timing chain rattle/noise before this no-start issue?

 

[stewwalk]

the only thing i could check for since i am by myself was the ignition coil. I removed it and bench tested it and the primary was ok at 0.6 ohms, but the secondary was around 12.43 ohms immediately after i took it out of the car. Spec says it should be between 6.5 and 11.5 k-ohms. It is cold where i live so temperature is not an issue with the resistance. Or maybe I have that backwards.??? I still need to check for spark, but like i said i am by myself so that will have to wait. those damned spark plug wires are impossible to get off btw.

 

[stewwalk]

the only thing i could check for since i am by myself was the ignition coil. I removed it and bench tested it and the primary was ok at 0.6 ohms, but the secondary was around 12.43 ohms immediately after i took it out of the car. Spec says it should be between 6.5 and 11.5 k-ohms. It is cold where i live so temperature is not an issue with the resistance. Or maybe I have that backwards.??? I still need to check for spark, but like i said i am by myself so that will have to wait. those damned spark plug wires are impossible to get off btw.

oh just to add when checking secondary resistance, one pair of holes was slightly higher than the other two. dont know if that has an effect either

any help appreciated..thanks

 

[stewwalk]

oh just to add when checking secondary resistance, one pair of holes was slightly higher than the other two. dont know if that has an effect either

any help appreciated..thanks

Oh sorry more readings

Coil is at room temp. These readings are for secondary resistance in ohms.

Cylinders 1-5...12.92

Cylinders 2-6...12.92

Cylinders 3-4...13.20

Book Specs are 6.5k-11.5k Ohms.

thanks again

 

[bluestream1]

Tap the CPS with a screwdriver. Often brings them back to life.

 

[stewwalk]

well looks like the ignition coil was the problem. the resistances were way off..starts like a breeze..Thanks everyone....Oh P.S., noticed white exhauset smoke, oil stains on the engine block, and milky white on the oil cap...yeah pretty sure its a blown head gasket...ok ill go kill myself now...happy holidays!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[bluestream1]

Merry X-Mas...

 

[stewwalk]

OK OK....im being negative..maybe its just a massive amount of condensation. I had the car taken apart for a long time going back and forth on the bus to the parts store. Air intake hoses were off for a long time and it is cold. Only ran the car a few minutes around the bloack. Was only a streak of white on the oil cap..no foam or forth...I'm crossing everything. ill drive it tomorrow a bit longer to see. Thanks again.