I have a no start condition on my 98 Explorer.

[justjosh]

I have been lurking on this site for several months. explorerforum.com has saved me at least a thousand bucks. So, thanks to everyone here that makes it what it is. I also want to say thanks for all the people, like I have been, that use this site that have benefited greatly but don't make a peep.

6 months ago I had ZERO automotive repair experience. Since then I have replaced my lower ball joints and my clutch, flywheel, slave and master cylinders. I actually have a 1998 mazda b2500 with 130K miles but it is pretty much the same as a ford ranger (most all components actually say ford on them).

I have a no-start problem and would like to start a new thread. I haven't been able to diagnose the source of the problem by searching the existing threads. It may be there, but, I don't know where to look.

I had just filled my gas tank, then within minutes my truck stalled and hasn't started since. The engine turns over but doesn't start. The fuel pump is running when I put the key in the on position. I replaced the fuel filter. Nothing. I checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve (albeit with an old tire pressure gauge, but it measured 50psi). The resistance I measure on the ignition coils is to spec. I get spark from at least one plug. I have check and reset the inertia switch. Fuses appear fine.

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

welcome

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've renamed, and moved your thread to the stock 95-01 section. You should have a good spark going to all of the plugs, and not just one. Did you test the coil packs?

 

[joey_hv]

same on our 98

had the same thing happen to my old 98 that I just sold to a friend. he just fueled it up and then it bogged down, throttlepedal wasn't responding, died...
here is the thread I started but haven't received much input yet.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241761

I did learn alot from this one:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241467

BTW, I am ordering a ECM today from Autozone for $129 dollars, they said they would take it back if it doesn't fix the problem.

I hope this helps some. good luck.

 

[jlsparky7]

How many miles? If its up around 150,000-200,000 it could be your timing chain. Like mentioned above also check your coil packs. Hows your battery?

 

[joey_hv]

just had the timing chains changed out.
they should be good but I will take off the valve cover and check. what is this "cassette" I keep seeing come up now and then?

 

[justjosh]

update

I borrowed a scanner from autozone. The only code that comes up is P0320. Which is ignition/distributor engine speed malfunction or according to my Haynes book, PIP input circuit malfunction.

I checked for spark in all but those two pesky guys under the intake manifold. Interestingly enough I don't get spark from the one going into cylinder 2. But, would that cause a no-start or just poor running?

I now have more information. But I am more confused than ever. Any help or opinions are greatly appreciated!

Is it reasonable to rule out issues regarding fuel?

 

[marragtop]

Have you considered that it could be contaiminated fuel? TRy starting it while squirting some ether into the intake.

 

[justjosh]

Tried the starter fluid trick... didn't do anything.

Oh and BrooklynBay, I checked the resistance of the primary wiring to the ignition coil and it measured < 5 ohms. I also checked the coil secondary resistance by probing paired cylinders and was around 13.2 to 13.5 K-ohms. These are the specifications for this truck.

 

[budwich]

The error code doesn't sound good. Does your check engine light come on with key JUST turned to "ON" (not trying to start it)? It should stay on for as long as your key is in "ON"... IF it doesn't, you have power problems. IF it does, then during a "start crank", does it go off??? Your error code suggests that it doesn't. IF it doesn't (go off), then check the crankshaft sensor / wiring as this circuit provides the "basis for PIP". Ultimately, a similar fault from a gentleman a while back resulted in a bad ECM which he tried to fix but ultimately replaced after significant effort and "good troubleshooting" both on the vehicle and off.

 

[joey_hv]

The error code doesn't sound good. Does your check engine light come on with key JUST turned to "ON" (not trying to start it)? It should stay on for as long as your key is in "ON"... IF it doesn't, you have power problems. IF it does, then during a "start crank", does it go off??? Your error code suggests that it doesn't. IF it doesn't (go off), then check the crankshaft sensor / wiring as this circuit provides the "basis for PIP". Ultimately, a similar fault from a gentleman a while back resulted in a bad ECM which he tried to fix but ultimately replaced after significant effort and "good troubleshooting" both on the vehicle and off.

what if i get a "no codes" from the computer?

 

[justjosh]

Budwich, the CEL goes on and stays on with the key in the on position. Upon cranking the CEL goes off. Which isn't a fun predicament.

Okay, so after some research I found a good step-by-step diagnostic test for a P0320 error code. It was a little intimidating (especially since the last test for intermittent problems has 255 steps!)
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/previous-vt229715.html?postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Just in case anyone is interested, here is what I did. disconnected the CKP cable (two leads). Then disconnected 104 pin PCM cable found pins 21 and 22 which go to the CKP by trial and error. checked for continuity. passed. next reconnect PCM and measure voltage between the CKP cable leads to the negative battery terminal, should be 1-2 volts. mine was 1.5. passed.

reconnect CKP cable. disconnect PCM cable. measure voltage between pins 21 and 22 when the engine is cranking. Should be above 0.4 volts. FAIL! It seems strange that you would expect a voltage when there is no external power going in anyway. But, I suppose that is the nature of the CKP sensor. Can anyone confirm this? One final sanity check. measure the resistance between pins 21 and 22 and it should be 300-800 ohms. passed this. The bottom line is that I need to replace the CKP sensor.

Okay, now here is the problem. My Haynes manual skips the procedure for replacing the CKP sensor for years 1998-2000 (mine is a 1998!) I wouldn't worry about this except for the fact that the procedures for a 1997 and a 2001 are drastically different. For a 97 they say to remove the alternator and radiator hose and water pump hoses etc. For the 2001, none of those things need to be done, but they strongly warn about having the proper special alignment tools for the CPK! So, I don't know where a 98 fits in. Anyone ever done this and remember what needs to be done here? As always, any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[justjosh]

Replaced the CKP sensor. No help. Will recheck if the the diagnostic step that failed before persists next time I can get a helper. Oh, and my 98 had the same CKP replacement procedure as the older models. PITA! I would like to punch the engineer that decided to put that sensor behind the water pump input hose.

Does anyone have any, and I mean any, ideas as to what the root of my no-start problem is? I am nearly at my wits end.

 

[budwich]

thanks for the info update. tough problem. since the ckp sensor is "inductor based", passing some "metal" by it will cause a voltage. When you say "fail"... what were you reading??? having said that... what do you think you should be reading??? At this point in time (typing), I am not sure whether you should be reading DC OR AC...?? hence my question.

Next question... what engine are we talking about?????

I guess you could try some "testing" to see "what happens if". For instance, if you disconnect the cable from the ckp and crank, do you get different codes? do you get a different cel light "action"... ie. light stays on. This might help eliminate things especially since you now have a new CKP... if you assume it is good, then maybe another part of the system will "burp" when things aren't connected right. Of course, the cel going out "appears" to indicate that timing "info" is being delivered...maybe.

Lastly, you might try "hitting" the sensor with a heat gun / air dryer.... then give it a crank and see if things "happen". Further, trying the same things on the ECM unit (carefully...not too hot) to see if things "happen"..... maybe things like a cold solder joint might happen.

Last, lastly... you might want to try a compression test (one on each side) if you can just in case you are fighting a mechanical issue with an your "electric gun".

 

[RufusK]

I have a '99 B4000 4WD manual (4.0L V6). I'm posting to report my experiences so far with the same P0320 only code in a no start condition. I say "so far" because my truck started fine today after charging the battery, engine warmed to normal operating temperature and didn't shut off, continued to let it idle another 10 minutes without issue, revved the engine several times and held it for a bit still no issues. Finally shut it off after running it 20 minutes with everything fine. But I have not driven it yet.

Okay, the history of my issue in a hopefully brief but informative fashion. Bought the truck used last year with 90k on the odometer. Ran great except the idle was slow to drop below 1500 when first stopping at any intersection which annoyed me but didn't seem to be an issue. Then a week ago I started feeling a very slight "skip" sometimes when changing gears which became more pronounced a few days ago. Then yesterday morning, it started fine but shortly after idling it shut off and would not restart. Searching on here led me to cleaning my MAF sensor, IAC valve, throttle body, replacing the PVC and fuel filter. Everything on the list needed attention badly. Tried starting the truck (keep in mind I had tried to start the truck many times during the process before finding information here) and it started right up. I thought "great, I have it". But after idling a bit, it died again and would not restart. The engine would crank fine but would not start. I read on here the bizarre symptoms a failed battery can produce and I knew my battery must be low after all the cranking so I connected my battery charger. It took better than half an hour last night to charge but I wanted to get a code reader before attempting to start it again. Got the code reader from HarborFreight today and the only code was the P0320 code. Disconnected the reader and started the truck. Started right up without issue. Checked my watch to see how long it idled before shutting off but it never shut off.

Assuming the truck continues to run fine, my conclusion is that a nasty MAF, IAC, or fuel filter or combination of these was my initial problem. Then after all the cranking of the engine I drained the battery so low that it caused an issue with the ignition system. This would explain both the problem and hopefully why the truck is fine now. At least I hope this explains why my truck failed but seems fine now.

So perhaps a lone P0320 code can be caused by a low battery condition.

 

[fixxxer]

In case you didn't permanently resolve your issue, this is from the AllData info for your X:
P0320 Ignition Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
The ignition engine speed sensor input signal to PCM is continuously monitored. The test fails when the signal indicates that two consecutive erratic profile ignition pickup (PIP) pulses have occurred.
Causes: Loose wires / connectors, arcing secondary ignition components (coil, wires and plugs), On-board transmitter (two-way radio).

 

[fixxxer]

In the end, it could be a bad PCM