98 XLT won't start, what have we missed? | Ford Explorer Forums

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98 XLT won't start, what have we missed?

dumb girl

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Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT
I have spent hours reading here and elsewhere, but can't put the pieces together to figure out what I am missing. Also, I am more of a rip down a wall kind of a gal, so I am sure I am using terms incorrectly and you should speak slowly to me.

98 Explorer XLT was running fine and then, after being parked at the house overnight, it won't start. It clicks when we turn it over (one click in the solenoid) but it doesn't do anything else.

With my fine google skills I found a few things I should try. I have done the following: Used a volt meter and checked battery output on the posts, which is 12.5 (with the meter set to 20--I have no idea what that means, but assume it could be important). Checked the solenoid and have 12.4 or so going into the solenoid and about the same coming out of the solenoid. Had my wonderful husband crawl under the truck and check voltage on the starter, and he is getting about 12.4 on the bottom connectors. Also I did a fancy schmancy trick to check the solenoid with rubber handled pliers and it clicked like crazy. I had DH give the starter a couple of whacks while he was down there, but he didn't hear anything and there was no change.

I read that if the headlights do not dim when you try to start the truck, then it is not the starter. After multiple attempts at starting and making the neighbors watch the lights with us, we are sure that the head lights do not dim. So no headlight dimming. We tried jumping the Explorer and there is still only a single click at the solenoid. All electronics do work, nothing seems dim or act funny. Wires seem to be connected well all the way around. Nothing strikes me as looking corroded.

I throw myself on your mercy--someone tell me what I am missing. I really don't want to have to have this thing towed in if it is something we can fix.

Thanks guys!
 



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Reading voltage can be misleading because voltage is only half the story and voltage drop is not linear (which means we cant really judge if a battery is at 80% or 100% capacity based on just voltage).

I know this sounds odd but have you tried jump starting the vehicle?
 






Thanks. Tried jumping and nothing but the one click like before. Any other ideas? Is there validity to the thought that the headlights would dim in the event that it was the starter? And I am right that if the solenoid clicks it is doing its job, right?

Thanks again.
 






sounds like your starter winding is fried.

should be under 200$ to fix at a mechanic but if you do it yourself you can get em at autozone for under 100$ i think

if the starter is getting power when you crank but the lights dont dim it means that power is not getting THROUGH the starter winding (the coils of wire inside the starter motor) or possibly that the starter solenoid is bad (is cheaper to fix).

the easiest way is to yank the whole starter (i think its only a few bolts) and take it to autozone. they have a machine that will test everything and tell you whats wrong.


believe me, you do NOT want to see your headlights dim when the engine doesn't crank cause that means seized engine!
 






Thanks Seth! We are going to replace the solenoid just in case it is doing something strange, and if not I will see if I can bribe my husband back under the truck...maybe some Shiner Bock will do it. He was grumbling something about not being able to get to the bolts that hold the starter in--any words of wisdom that I can pass on to him? I just draw the line at crawling under the thing, but a tow is going to cost more than I want to spend, and after all, what fun is having a mechanic do that work? You guys always look so cute pulling parts off trucks!
 






great! Hopefully its the solenoid!


The starter won't turn until the solenoid engages so hopefully thats why its not turnin!
 






and I recommend definatley getting AAA. Its only 49$ a year for the gold package and you get FREE unlimited tows and roadside assistance!

Saved my ass soo many times.
 






had an issue similar to this myself,, it was the wire that ran from the battery to the starter..
they can corrode inside the coating, and than the dreaded click thing appears,, it seems to have lots of power , but no start ,,
another thing that plagues many fords is the actual clamps to the battery on the end of the wire,, they corrode underneath at the post and than it has battery but won't start as well , ,
i think if it worked fine one night , not the next morning, it could be a wire issue,, or even the battery clamp and post , check that before changing anything,
 






have you sorted it out yet?
 






Thanks Seth! We are going to replace the solenoid just in case it is doing something strange, and if not I will see if I can bribe my husband back under the truck...maybe some Shiner Bock will do it. He was grumbling something about not being able to get to the bolts that hold the starter in--any words of wisdom that I can pass on to him? I just draw the line at crawling under the thing, but a tow is going to cost more than I want to spend, and after all, what fun is having a mechanic do that work? You guys always look so cute pulling parts off trucks!

If it's difficult to reach the bolts try using a swivel socket and a very long (feet, not inches) extension or if you have wiggly fingers you may be able to use a stubby/midget type box wrench and a prybar.
 






Well, it still isn't running. The new solenoid didn't do anything. I bribed my DH to crawl under the truck, and he amazingly got the top hard to reach bolt off, but after several hours of "sentence enhancers" he still didn't get the bottom bolt to break loose. He left it with a bunch of rust buster stuff on it, and a promise to try one more time tomorrow to get the bolt off.

Y'all have been invaluable. Thanks so much. I will update. A shame I can't take you all out for a drink to say thanks.
 






Well, 3 more hours on one bolt this evening after a full day of work, and beer is losing is bribe-appeal. Even Texas born micro-brew...sigh. I have now promised to borrow a dremmel so he can cut the bolt. We don't own anything small enough to get into the small space he has to work in.

Hopefully I can find a dremmel and convince him that real men don't let starters the best of them. Of course, now I am starting to have a nagging concern that he is going to get this thing off and it is going to be something else.
 






Quick note for you all...when using a grinding tool to grind the bolt off the starter you should be VERY CAREFUL about how close you come to the metal break line...my truck is bleeding break fluid now...
 






OUCH!!


Oh well. Just throw some electric tape on there. Should be fine. [\sarcasm]
 






Good news, he managed to get the starter out before a storm hit and the friendly guys at the corner auto parts store confirmed that it was indeed the starter. He came home with a bright shiny new one and tomorrow he will put it in and repair the brake line. I suggested a band aid for the break line and my 6 year old suggested duct tape (that girl thinks like her mom!), but DH didn't really see the humor in my suggestion. He told the 6 year old he would think about it.

Thanks again!
 






URGENT... won't start, out of the blue!!

I have the same problem; truck sitting for a couple of days with no hint of trouble when parked in the driveway.

I have determined it's not the starter switch/rely (on fender) and no response from the starter just a single click from the rely each time the key is turned or the remote start is triggered. Other than the starter and a wiring problem, as has been mentioned above, is there a fuse or breaker in the starting system that would prevent starting?

I'm going to try the jump start solution as soon as it stops raining (wish me luck) and If it starts can I assume that it only means a bad battery??? Battery tester says battery is good, it's not a load tester though.

Boy.. I hate weekend breakdowns especially rain soaked ones an no cover to work under.:(
 






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