'99 Explorer Rear Rotor Issue (currently on jackstands- please help!)

[rocknrollmommy]

The Situation:
1999 Explorer v6 SOHC RWD

As a new mom money is tight and I decided to change my brake pads/rotors (rear) myself. I've helped my dad do it to other cars before and haven't had any problems.

I got the pads replaced and now I can't get the rear rotors off. I think they're the original rotors (from 1999) and they're pretty rusted on. I've soaked and scrubbed with rust remover, beaten on it with a hammer until I can't go on and that freaking thing won't budge.

I was told that it was as easy as just pulling it off and putting the new one on. After searching a little online I ran across a couple of things mentioning "removing the wheel bearing locknut" and "releasing tension in the parking brake line".

Do I have to do either of those? What else can I do? I NEED my car and right now I can't drive it since it's on jackstands (in my apartment parking lot no less).

Hopefully someone can give me clear, "for dummy" answers (and/or pictures!). I really need to try to fix this tomorrow and will be ETERNALLY GRATEFUL for help!!!

 

[windsors03cobra]

You need a bigger and heavier hammer then, there is nothing holding it to the axle flange but the rust.
Once it moves outward give it half a turn around and hit it on that side and keep going back and forth to keep it coming off straight, it wont come off at a steep angle and after awhile it will be falling off. The parking brake shoes should not give you any problem.

Its amazing how stuck some rotors get over the years, good luck.

 

[dogfriend]

I ran across a couple of things mentioning "removing the wheel bearing locknut" and "releasing tension in the parking brake line".

Do I have to do either of those?

You don't have a "wheel bearing locknut" (not on an Explorer) but you won't get the rotors off if you have the parking brake on. Make sure the parking brake is fully released.

Normally the only thing holding the rear rotors on is the rear wheels and accumulated rust. :

 

[RangRayy]

There is possibility that your ebrake might be too tight and not allowing the rotors to come off. Funny i was just doing this to my sis's 03 sport and couldt get the passenger side rotor of to save my life. Seems the ebarke was pushing the shoes out too much which in turn making he rotor stay on. Its simple to loosen the cable just have to look in the right spot.

On the backside of the wheel or the brake sheild at the 6'oclock position there is a horizontal slit not very big usually will have a plastic slip in it take it out and get a flat head screw driver or something flat and inside the slit is a small gear with teeth push down or up and that will loosen the ebrake.

Good luck

 

[kitra]

Stuck brake rotors.

I agree, make sure the E-brake is not holding the rotors on but even if it were, the rotors would at least come free from the hub. I couldn't get the rotors off the rear of my SAAB and using a hammer, torch, etc didn't help. I borrowed a "slide-hammer" and they popped off with ease. A slide hammer is basically a rod with a hook on one end with a heavy weight that slides on the rod. The other end of the rod has a stop, the one I used had a nut and washer. I hooked the end on the rotor and slid the weight fast down the rod and when it hits the end, the momentum generates quite a bit of force, freeing the rotor from the hub. I worked great. I don't know if Harbor Freight would have such a thing or not?

 

[dogfriend]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5469

 

[rocknrollmommy]

thanks guys for your advice. i'm at a point now where i just had to put my new pads on the old grooved rotor. i know they'll wear out soon but at least they're better than the tiny sliver of metal that was left on the old ones. i'll have to get a slide hammer and try that when the weather is nicer.

now i have a new problem... my emergency brake light on the dash is now constantly lit (and yes... i have the brake released LOL). any thoughts?

 

[96eb96]

thanks guys for your advice. i'm at a point now where i just had to put my new pads on the old grooved rotor. i know they'll wear out soon but at least they're better than the tiny sliver of metal that was left on the old ones. i'll have to get a slide hammer and try that when the weather is nicer.

now i have a new problem... my emergency brake light on the dash is now constantly lit (and yes... i have the brake released LOL). any thoughts?

Either low fluid in the master cylinder resivour or the e-brake switch is somehow sticking. You can find it if you look around the foot e-brake lever and follow it up. There should be a wire and a small switch.

 

[llabourdeth]

I'm having the same problem on my '98 explorer. Does anyone know which way the adjuster gear for the parking brake needs to turn? I haven't been able to get it to turn at all, and I don't want to work too hard and end up making the problem worse.

 

[gijoecam]

I'm having the same problem on my '98 explorer. Does anyone know which way the adjuster gear for the parking brake needs to turn? I haven't been able to get it to turn at all, and I don't want to work too hard and end up making the problem worse.

Depends which way they were installed and whether or not they were coated with grease when they were. To figure out which way to go, adjust 'em. One way will make them loose, the other way will make them tight and the wheel won't spin. Unless you can see the threads through the adjustment hole in the backing plate, you've got a 50/50 shot.

If they were installed dry, odds are they're rusted in place and probably won't turn at all. In that case, take a dremel or die grinder and remove the head(s) of the retainer pins from the parking brake shoe retainers. Then when you push the rotor off and the lip gets hung up on the brake shoes, the shoes can pop, flex, and (hopefully) let the rotor come free. Otherwise you end up spending all day banging on the rotors hung up on the shoes which are only held in by springs.

 

[NEFG]

I am having the same problem. It must be hung up on the lip because it will move out about a 1/4". I took out the rubber plug but the adjustment is seized. I sprayed some PB in there and will try again tonight after work. If not I wasn't sure where the heads of the retainer pins were located to grind off. I will look when I get home, but any assistance would be great.

 

[gijoecam]

If you're looking straight-on the backing plate from behind, I'm going to say they are at about 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, maybe 2-1/2" to 3" out from the center of the axle... If you pick up the new hardware kit, you'll see the head of the pins is about 1/8" or 3/16" in diameter... Not big....

Once those heads are off, the shoes will still not want to come off over the axle shaft, but you should be able to pull the rotor off far enough that you can pop a couple of the springs off with a screwdriver, or maybe even get a die grinder with a carbide bit in there to pop the screws and let the shoes collapse far enough. A well-placed screwdriver may even be able to pop the adjuster off and let the shoes collapse... Either way, it's not gonna be pretty...

 

[NEFG]

I ended up going to Auto Zone and renting a puller. The rotor came off in about a minute. I don't use the parking brake and don't have to pass an inspection in our state, so I am going to leave it alone since the cable and both brakes are rusted solid. The new rotor slides right on and doesn't bind at all. The old rotor appears to have been bound to the parking brakes by layers and layers of rust. I guess thats what 15 years of Maine winters do.