A/C Compressor Repair

[XLTrunner]

I just had the pleasure of replacing the a/c compressor clutch hub and pulley on my '04 Sable DOHC engine when the brg started howling. A/C still worked and got lucky that I caught it before the compressor was damaged...so, it wasn't necessary to evacuate the system and remove the compressor from the car.

Anyway, it got me to thinking maybe I should be proactive in doing the same on the Explorer w/179K miles before trouble arises? Anyone done this...or, does everyone just wait until it self-destructs and either bypasses it or spends big money to have a shop replace/service it? Frankly, as much as I enjoy a/c, I wouldn't be inclined to invest upwards of $1K to have it fixed.

 

[MAS Tequila]

I spent somewhere around $300 replacing the compressor, condenser, and drier on my 2000 a couple of months ago.

I bought all of the parts from Rock Auto, I had a set of manifold gauges ($49) from HF, and HF's vacuum was $69 (?).

I did the whole thing myself, it's really very easy and simple.

My ac is now as cold as new, and down here in south Hell er Florida that's saying something.

And no more leak or noise.

My clutch was shot, but I just couldn't get to it to replace it with the compressor in the vehicle.

I have a brand new clutch I'll make you a great deal on if you want it.

 

[Craigerz]

My compressor was leaking around the seal and didn't self destruct, thank God. But ended up doing the same thing MT did. Got a cheap vacuum/gauge combo for like 89 bucks somewhere. Have done 6 vehicle this summer with it for family/friends. Nothing industrial, but does the job and makes sure the A/C is done right. Just order everything in advance, o-ring kit, orifice tube and dryer are only like 30 bucks so if you're breaking the seal might as well do them too. If I remember right, taking the PS pump off was the hardest part.

 

[koda2000]

I've replaced two A/C compressor clutch hubs on my 2000 Mountaineers 5.0L V8's. Wasn't very hard to do with the compressor in the truck. SOHC looks like it would even be easier to do.

 

[shadow460]

I wouldn't mess with it. Instead, I'd spend that money on a recovery machine. The Appion G5 Twin is common and very fast, but expensive. Bacharach's Stinger is slower but fully automated, and you can't go wrong with a Vortex.
You will also need access to a vacuum pump... the loaners from AutoZone should be fine or you can buy a 3 cfm unit (it'll be slow). You need a residential gauge set that measures psi, adapters that fit r134a fittings, a recovery bottle, a scale, and a 25 lb jug of 134a (the cans are a rip off). Oh, don't forget a flush gun, nitrogen tank, and thermometer. Even used this stuff will run you a good $700 but it's worth it since you will never need to have AC work done at a garage again AND in future, non working AC will be a huge bargaining chip when buying a used vehicle. $700 is labor for one compressor, so after the first one you used toys pay for themselves. If you go new on any of that, do it with the recovery machine and get a Vortex... it's $300 less than the others and reasonably fast.
The most important things on vehicle AC are that the system is clean and that you WEIGH IN the charge... do NOT go by temperature. If in doubt, flush it out. You can re use recovered refrigerant, just make sure to pull liquid from the red valve on the tank and go slow, giving it time to vaporize. Don't use the blue valve... you WILL get air in the system.
Once you get all the tools, replacing compressors is reasonably easy. I've done 4 on my vehicles and over 100 residential ones. The four vehicle ones have saved me over $3,000 in AC repair costs.

 

[XLTrunner]

I've replaced two A/C compressor clutch hubs on my 2000 Mountaineers 5.0L V8's. Wasn't very hard to do with the compressor in the truck. SOHC looks like it would even be easier to do.

What were the symptoms that prompted you to replace them? They are constructed differently than on the Taurus/Sables...of which it's readily apparent on those when the rubber spacers start to fall out and cause a sloppiness in the air gap between the hub and pulley. Also, how do you keep the hub from turning when trying to remove the center bolt as, unlike the Sable hub, there is little to grab onto to keep it from spinning with the wrench?