A/C possible leak

[98EdBomber]

Had system redone a few years back with new accumulator, and some other parts. Worked fine until about a month ago. Id usually get it recharged or at least get the pressure checked before summer. This summer I had it checked and it was low. Mind you, I dont normally run the A/C during the winter but IIRC I did run it a few times last winter with no issues.

Anyways, I recharged the system with a full can to about 45psi and now after about 10 trips in the ride with the A/C on MAX the air is no longer cold. The blower works great. It was ice cold after i filled it about a month ago.

The compressor definitely kicks on, but then only stays on for a second and kicks back off. Im assuming this is because of a lack of pressure. I am going to check the pressure today but I am certain it will be low.

Now if I were to try and locate a possible leak myself, could this be done without any dyes? I havent read anything about this process yet. Any ideas???

TJ

 

[deweyville65]

Usually, wherever there is a leak, if it has leaked for any length of time, there will be oily residue. This is because some of the oil in the system will leak out with the R-134.

 

[ASURFCAT]

And usually, hopefully dirt and grime stick to the oil at the area of the leak.
Areas to check:
Anywhere there is a fitting, there is an "O" ring that may fail.
Look over the entire condensor(mounted in front of the radiator)
Look for oil leaking from the compressor itself.Check if there is oil residue escaping from between the body of the compressor and the pully. The seal goes bad there also. Check where the lines hook to the compressor as well.

A visual check looking for oil escaping and dirt sticking to the area is always good!
Never replace an old "O" ring with an old "O" ring.
I may be mistaken but I think R-134a systems require an "O" ring made from different material than your basic run of the mill ones.

 

[radman]

Oversize "O" Rings

Many Ford cars have had problems with leaking O rings for years. The after market finally came out with a slightly fuller O ring that pretty much solved this problem. If you have you a/c system open for recharging I would suggest changing all O ring to to more modern ones to keep from having this issue again.

 

[98EdBomber]

And usually, hopefully dirt and grime stick to the oil at the area of the leak.
Areas to check:
Anywhere there is a fitting, there is an "O" ring that may fail.
Look over the entire condensor(mounted in front of the radiator)
Look for oil leaking from the compressor itself.Check if there is oil residue escaping from between the body of the compressor and the pully. The seal goes bad there also. Check where the lines hook to the compressor as well.

A visual check looking for oil escaping and dirt sticking to the area is always good!
Never replace an old "O" ring with an old "O" ring.
I may be mistaken but I think R-134a systems require an "O" ring made from different material than your basic run of the mill ones.

Alright well I will have time this weekend and I will check it out. Thanks for the advice.

 

[98EdBomber]

how do i delete a post?

 

[98EdBomber]

Many Ford cars have had problems with leaking O rings for years. The after market finally came out with a slightly fuller O ring that pretty much solved this problem. If you have you a/c system open for recharging I would suggest changing all O ring to to more modern ones to keep from having this issue again.

Wheres this O ring?

 

[radman]

This is now the normal replacement O ring found at Carquest, NAPA, or professional auto parts stores. The O rings are now green or blue in color, I do not even think they use the black ones any longer.

 

[98EdBomber]

This is now the normal replacement O ring found at Carquest, NAPA, or professional auto parts stores. The O rings are now green in color, I do not even think they use the black ones any longer.

Im sorry. I meant to ask where exactly is this O ring located that you are referring to? Is it on the compressor?

 

[radman]

They are located at several disconnect joints in the system. At the accumulator, condenser lines, compressor, orfice tube,and evaporator connections. They will be various sizes from 3/8,1/2, and 3/4 inch. Do not forget that there could be some spring lock connections requiring an unlock tool similar to the type used on fuel filters.

 

[98EdBomber]

Do not forget that there could be some spring lock connections requiring an unlock tool similar to the type used on fuel filters.

Ahh yes. I did see those clips. Im assuming they sell the unlock tool at my local parts store?

One question though. When I test the pressure and IF it is completely empty (0 psi), would I still have to take it to get it completely discharged? Im guessing there would be risidual freon left in the system in that event, would there not be?

Thanks again.

 

[radman]

Yes, the tools are readily available. The 134A refrigerant is a very small molecular structure, much smaller than R12, when it leaks it usually will all escape unless it just started. You do not have to have it purged but can release it by slowly cracking a coupling joint. It is safe to vent it to the atmosphere that is why it replaced R12. Do not forget to wear safety equipment.

You will want to have a vacuum pulled on the system before adding new refrigerant to remove any moisture from the desiccant in the receiver and to test your seal replacements to make sure they do not leak.

IMO do not use any of the so called replacement refrigerants that are out there because 134A works best in your car.