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A/C problems

Can anyone post a picture of the speed controller. I am having the same problems and I cannot locate it. EB 99 auto climate so I guess its the speed control not the resistor.
 



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it is located underneath the blower motor itself. passenger side of the vehicle on the firewall. todd.
 






toddious said:
i do have the automatic temperature control. When i took the truck back to aamco today, they realized that the resistor pack they had ordered is similar, but not identical to the part that i need. I'm assuming it resides in the same location. If this a/c controller is bad, would the blower motor not work at all then? aamco told me that they somehow bypassed this controller, and the motor was working. So i'm assuming I should just replace this part. agree?


just wanted to update this: I replaced the a/c controller myself with a used junkyard replacement, and the a/c is working great now. found it easiest to get to this part from underneath, coming up through the wheel well. there are just 2 bolts that need unscrewed, and disconnect the electrical connection. very simple, used part cost me $25 shipped (ford wanted $150). Todd.
 






AC compressor clutch does not have 12 volts to it???

I have a 1998 Eddie Bower and have been reading many of the questions and anwers in the AC thread. Thanks to all involved. Very helpful info here.
My problem is that I do not have 12 volts to the AC clutch, nor do I have any voltage to either one of the "low coolant" switchs. I switched the relays in the fuse box with one another thinking that the AC relay was bad. They have 3 of same in the box, so I just switched one with another. Did not engage clutch. By the way the clutch does work when "jumped" to 12 volts off battery. Question? Where should I look next for power faiure to the AC clutch circuit? Is there a fuse that may be a problem? The blower works well, and I used the MAX AC setting which should have created power to engage the clutch. Any thoughts????

tsmith@paramit.com
 






Doubt it. Short-cycling of the compressor is usually indicative of a low freon charge. You'll need to have the system leak-tested and re-charged to fix it.

-Joe

I have a brand new AC unit and still get the short cycling-freon has been tested 2x and its fine and no leaks. Just had it checked again this morning and no issues they could see. I noticed that when in the car wash today (drive throughs) its starts shorting when either the AC or Heat is on and water is spraying in the front grill. Battery light comes on, engine whines. Shut the heat or ac off, immediately goes away. Im thinking I have a bad connection someplace....possibly the resistor?

My old AC system NEVER recycled as much as the new. Its like every 3 seconds at times.
 






compressor cycling

You might try your WOT relay. I had a problem with frequent cycling on my wife's 97 and I bypassed the WOT relay. The relay was not bad, but it recieves a signal from the pcm when you are at wide open throttle to turn off compressor for more passing power. Apparently something went bad in the pcm to cause it to cycle on and off even when not wide open. If memory serves me, it was the front relay in the underhood fuse/relay box. I don't remember for sure, but I think if you make a short jumper wire and insert it between terminal 30 and 87a it will allow the compressor to run. The only thing you eliminate is the computer won't shut off the compressor at wide open throttle.
 






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