A/C Rear Line Leak

[dave151]

Any update on your attempt to patch with Alum Bond?

An update on mine. I pulled the suction line off and had a look. The line was pitted and corroded in a few spots. The high pressure line was the same. I wasn't able to find AlumBond (in Canada) so I reached out to AutoCoolingSolutions. They sent me the 2011-2015 hose kit to try on my 2016.

On the 2016 and up the rear AC lines loop around the steering shaft in contrast to 2015 and earlier which goes straight up to the A/C hard lines. Brett @ ACS added some extra insulation to the lines he sent me and there was still more than enough room to route them up along the rear coolant lines. I just got it back from the AC shop and it had no leaks and charged up without any issues. Man it blows cold now. I'm pretty sure its been leaking since I bought it last year...

If you are in need of new lines give Auto Cooling Solutions a try. The hoses they sent were top notch "Parker" AC hose and the pipe/fittings looked OEM.

 

[Fredfishing]

Hi,

Add me to the list of Explorer owners with the rear A/C line leak. My 2016 Limited with 67,000km is leaking.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Fred.
Depending upon where the leak is, you could try some of the 'fixes' found in this thread.

Peter

 

[Fredfishing]

Welcome to the Forum Fred.
Depending upon where the leak is, you could try some of the 'fixes' found in this thread.

Peter

Thanks for the welcome!
I'm going to try Alumabond or something. Otherwise I will go with the Auto Cooling Solution.

 

[runningonfords]

Any update on your attempt to patch with Alum Bond?

Alls well now, but PULL THE SCHRADER VALVE on the low side before you patch! Mine looked fine, but escaping gas/oil created a tiny little river channel btw the pipe and the epoxy all the way up the patch that didn't bond. Thought there was a new leak higher up days later, but sanding it down again revealed the little unbonded river under the patch, all the way down to the original pinhole.

I redid it, after pulling the valve up front, and things are mighty cold now. No leaks, weeks later. I've been all around in hot July weather, up north to the The Bridge and back, and is working great! On a blazing hot day, 50/275 PSI lo/high pressures and very cold output right away in front and back.

***I replaced the condenser dryer element right before I evacuated & recharged the system. This is best practice whenever the system is opened. The removable cap is accessible from below the condenser on the drivers side, kind of under the bumper, behind a little flap of foam. There is a cutout circle in the plastic there where you can push aside the foam, fit in a long 10mm hex socket and unscrew the cap. Remove the old element with needle nose pliers, soak the new one in PAG oil, replace it, and close up shop. Evacuate the system within 1 hour of opening the element bag or it gets too wet from humid atmospheric air.

MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE RIGHT CAP TYPE!!! THE SHORTER 2014 PLASTIC CAP FILTER SCREEN COMES OFF AND GETS STUCK WHEN INSERTED INTO A 2013 TYPE CONDENSER DRYER TUBE!!! BEWARE!!! My 2014 was given the wrong plastic cap type for 2014 and later years. I obtained the part at a Ford dealer. I had to figure it out for myself, after ordering it by VIN and given the wrong one, that its actually the metal type 2013 model condenser cap. A 2nd Ford dealer also was telling me that the plastic one is the correct one based on my VIN. You can verify yours with the pictures available on rockauto.com. I had to drill out the stuck filter screen, destroying it while installed/stuck, then pulled it out, it sucked a lot. If your condenser dryer element tube cap is metal and longer, its the 2013 earlier version. ***

 

[Satz]

After many threads and a failed alum bond try, i just got the block off kit from ebay. Put it on and charged up. It works . if i ever fix the rear i will go this auto cooling solution. but even with seems to keep the car cool in 100 degree humid days . The explorer did hit 180k and still running strong. i change the plugs and did a fluid change at 150 .other than that is just rolls and tows a small landscape trailer some times.

 

[explorewithoutac]

Looks like this thread is getting another one. My 2015 Explorer (80k miles) is having issues with the rear a/c. Local shop quoted me 2k to replace the rear low side hose and gaskets. I don't have any experience with repairing cars, but this price seems ridiculous just for a/c. I'm going to see if I can get another quote. Any other advice?

 

[peterk9]

Looks like this thread is getting another one. My 2015 Explorer (80k miles) is having issues with the rear a/c. Local shop quoted me 2k to replace the rear low side hose and gaskets. I don't have any experience with repairing cars, but this price seems ridiculous just for a/c. I'm going to see if I can get another quote. Any other advice?

Welcome to the Forum.
The determination of whether you can fix it yourself depends on where the leak is. Do you know?

Peter

 

[explorewithoutac]

All I have to go off is this image the shop sent me. It doesn’t look like they identified where the leak physically was.

 

[peterk9]

Difficult to tell if it is a leak at the top as in post 144 above where the fluid has run down or if it is in that short length of line that is covered. If the latter, it may be fixable.

Peter

 

[explorewithoutac]

I'm going to look at it closer myself this weekend. Fingers crossed.

 

[Satz]

I'm going to look at it closer myself this weekend. Fingers crossed.

Push the wrap and out and see.

 

[runningonfords]

I'm going to look at it closer myself this weekend. Fingers crossed.

Remove that silver heat barrier, leak is under there somewhere. If you cut the silver stuff to get it off, don't use a razor knife blindly and cut the rubber hose part of the a/c line. The transition from aluminum tube->rubber hose is over the muffler after the 90 degree bend.

 

[Biohazrus]

Adding mine to the list, found a green spot behind rear driver tire, on the ground Friday. The dealer looked at it today.
Good news: under extended warranty
Bad news only one hose available, 2 weeks for the other one.
Worst news, he's unable to refill the unit, coolant is backorder... So nothing will be done until he can get his hand on the coolant.

 

[runningonfords]

Adding mine to the list, found a green spot behind rear driver tire, on the ground Friday. The dealer looked at it today.
Good news: under extended warranty
Bad news only one hose available, 2 weeks for the other one.
Worst news, he's unable to refill the unit, coolant is backorder... So nothing will be done until he can get his hand on the coolant.

A dealer without access to r-134a. Wow, I'd speak to someone else there to confirm that. "So, you guys are out of r-134a for the time being?" Sounds like Orc mischief to me.

Make sure they remove and replace the condenser's drier receiver desiccant element bag. Check to see it on the parts receipt afterward too. Desiccant bag becomes saturated with water once exposed to the air. The system is open right now. Need that replaced and then vacuum evacuated before recharging.

 

[Biohazrus]

Ya, was planning on calling another dealer and see what his call would be.
And so the answer is kind of better-ish/confusing... Getting the r-134a would not be a problem for him.
But here goes the madness:
The other dealer told me he could not do the job as there would already be a diagnostic done for that job under warranty. But if the initial dealer changes the part and "fix everything", he could simply fill it up (as a subcontracted job).
So I called the initial dealer but he told me he cannot do that has he must be the one filling it up (something something), but the other dealer should simply be good to go and do the job!?!
Can someone confirm what could be my option? Call them back and tell them they are wrong or call a thrid one!?!?!

Regarding the r-134a access, I understood that his provider would have issues, probably related to Covid, not sure I could go around asking others!?!?!

 

[runningonfords]

Ya, was planning on calling another dealer and see what his call would be.
And so the answer is kind of better-ish/confusing... Getting the r-134a would not be a problem for him.
But here goes the madness:
The other dealer told me he could not do the job as there would already be a diagnostic done for that job under warranty. But if the initial dealer changes the part and "fix everything", he could simply fill it up (as a subcontracted job).
So I called the initial dealer but he told me he cannot do that has he must be the one filling it up (something something), but the other dealer should simply be good to go and do the job!?!
Can someone confirm what could be my option? Call them back and tell them they are wrong or call a thrid one!?!?!

Regarding the r-134a access, I understood that his provider would have issues, probably related to Covid, not sure I could go around asking others!?!?!

PM sent

 

[Satz]

Ya, was planning on calling another dealer and see what his call would be.
And so the answer is kind of better-ish/confusing... Getting the r-134a would not be a problem for him.
But here goes the madness:
The other dealer told me he could not do the job as there would already be a diagnostic done for that job under warranty. But if the initial dealer changes the part and "fix everything", he could simply fill it up (as a subcontracted job).
So I called the initial dealer but he told me he cannot do that has he must be the one filling it up (something something), but the other dealer should simply be good to go and do the job!?!
Can someone confirm what could be my option? Call them back and tell them they are wrong or call a thrid one!?!?!

Regarding the r-134a access, I understood that his provider would have issues, probably related to Covid, not sure I could go around asking others!?!?!

As long the dealer does a vacuum test you should be good. I just mine for 60 bucks at a local garage which also said if it leaks this year free refill. i would push for a fix and vacuum test. you can even fill it with a DIY bottle from a auto store if you vacuum holds.

 

[goosegoodman]

Hi All, I own a 2011 Explorer XLT AWD and 2016 Explorer Sport AWD and have had to replace the rear A/C lines in both vehicles $1600 expense. Is there any recall/TSB about this issue? Seems to me like a design flaw or something. Thanks for your time.

 

[xartic]

What was the issue with them that was determined why the needed to be replaced?