A few issues, common thread? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

A few issues, common thread?

Post number 5 has been selected as best answered.

LorenzoGarbanzo

Active Member
Joined
June 18, 2020
Messages
74
Reaction score
14
City, State
Nashville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Sport Trac XLT
1. Bumpy Idle, very noticeable shaking but my OBD Reader is not recording any misfires.

2. I have factory remote start, I believe. But, it doesn't always start. I'll hear it crank over but not start. It's like it isn't cranking over long enough to get the truck started. I can fire it off the key or remote start again and get it started. Is this adjustable or do I need to fix something to get it working properly?

3. Having an issue when cruising down the road around 45-55 mph. It feels like it's surging or hunting for RPMs.

I'm planning to try a fuel filter, air filter, plug / wire, throttle body clean, maf clean to try to rectify these issues. Anyone seen anything similar or have any other suggestions to try?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Besides what you mentioned I would also check for vacuum leaks including the brake booster. You can also try cleaning the IAC.

Sorry I have no idea about the remote start issue.
 






issue 2 would be crank time. If the remote starter is smart it should be set to look at RPMs, sounds like it is a fixed crank time. When there were no issues with the motor, it would start within the fixed crank time. Now with some issues mentioned it probably needs slightly longer crank time. That time can be setup - read owners manual (programming manual) for the remote starter.
If the engine issues are fixed maybe the crank time doesn't need to be fixed.
 






Besides what you mentioned I would also check for vacuum leaks including the brake booster. You can also try cleaning the IAC.

Sorry I have no idea about the remote start issue.

Will do. I noticed a new symptom tonight while driving to the gym. I turned the AC off and noticed it hunting for RPMs at idle while sitting in park in my driveway. When I pressed on the brake to put it in gear, I noticed the RPMs smooth out. Makes me almost certain there could be a type of vacuum issue as the difference in vacuum pressure caused by engaging the brake booster impacted how the engine was behaving.

issue 2 would be crank time. If the remote starter is smart it should be set to look at RPMs, sounds like it is a fixed crank time. When there were no issues with the motor, it would start within the fixed crank time. Now with some issues mentioned it probably needs slightly longer crank time. That time can be setup - read owners manual (programming manual) for the remote starter.
If the engine issues are fixed maybe the crank time doesn't need to be fixed.

This makes sense, ideally I shouldn't need to adjust the crank time. If I get it running better and cranking easier, then it should work properly.
 






Following up with resolution:
1. Replaced plugs and wires, they were very old Autolites and the electrodes were broken on 3 cylinders. This helped a lot but wasn't perfect.
2. Replaced fuel filter. When I pulled off the Made in China unit someone put on there, the element inside rattled. I guess you could say there was no filtration happening and inconsistent pressure flow from the element moving around inside there. Installed new filter and ran a bottle of injector cleaner through and it's seeming much smoother.

Discoveries / Thoughts from this.
1. MPGs went from 10 to about 16 (mostly city driving). On a trip to the Smokies it got about 20 on the highway with the cruise set at 75 without a single hiccup. I'm much happier.
2. The remote start is behaving much better as the engine starts easier with good plugs and fuel supply. I still have not learned how to adjust its crank time and it fails to start on occasion.
3. When the previous owner said to me "It's been so reliable, not a single bolt has been turned on the motor" what he really meant was "I didn't keep up with maintenance."
4. I found a lot of dry rot on the evap vapor hose under the truck, I may be replacing this soon.
5. I need to do valve cover gaskets soon, so I'll be checking over vacuum lines, cleaning the TB, & replacing PCV valve and the intake / tb gaskets while everything's out.
 






Lorenzo, I think your assesment is accurate. Lots of deferred maintenance. Has the transmission and differential fluids been changed? I, too, am a Middle Tennessean. Love my '09 'Trac. Mine has 110k. I bought it with 80k and it had been well maintained thank goodness. My most recent repairs are both front hub assemblies, a 4x4 curse, and the only other repair has been the thermostat housing. Otherwise, maintenance only. This is my second 'Trac. I had an '05 that was 2 wheel drive, but our son took over our other 4x4 so I needed one. My '05 had around 135k when I let it go, and it, too, had been trouble free.
 






Lorenzo, I think your assesment is accurate. Lots of deferred maintenance. Has the transmission and differential fluids been changed? I, too, am a Middle Tennessean. Love my '09 'Trac. Mine has 110k. I bought it with 80k and it had been well maintained thank goodness. My most recent repairs are both front hub assemblies, a 4x4 curse, and the only other repair has been the thermostat housing. Otherwise, maintenance only. This is my second 'Trac. I had an '05 that was 2 wheel drive, but our son took over our other 4x4 so I needed one. My '05 had around 135k when I let it go, and it, too, had been trouble free.
Good to see someone else from the area on here. I live out in Hermitage. I had the thermostat housing go on mine the second day I had it. I drove up to LKQ north of town to get a tail light and cross bars for the roof rack. It busted on the way home, dumping all the coolant out. Thankfully I was able to see the leak easily and had roadside assitance tow it home, it took less time to fix than to wait for the tow. This has been a great vehicle so far and I see a lot of these trucks with 200K+ on them so I think it's worth catching up on all of the maintenance.

There was a record for a trans filter / fluid change and he had regular oil changes as well so I don't think it was totally mistreated. All I've done to it so far are the sway bar endlinks, tune-up, brakes, oil change, and thermostat housing. I'm doing the valve cover, PCV, & intake gaskets this afternoon.

I have oil to do the rear diff (2wd) but I haven't done it yet because there's a slow leak on one of the stub shaft seals, I think it needs rear wheel bearings as well (slight hum at higher speeds) but I'm probably going to take it to the shop for that job, I've heard the rear wheel bearings are a real pain on this gen of Explorer. The radiator has a very slow leak that I'll need to fix at some point but I think that will get all of the maintenance up to date. Thankfully a good friend of mine is a parts guy at a Ford dealer and I've got my hands on the shop manual so everything's been easy so far.
 






Lorenzo, I am not too far from you. I am in Sumner County. I have not had to do the rear bearings on either 'Trac, but on our older Explorer, an '04, it was expensive to get done. The '04 had around 140k when we let it go and bought our son an Escape to drive back and forth to college in Memphis. He actually really liked the '04, but the gas mileage was terrible compared to the Escape. :) And the Escape is easier to park in tight college parking areas.
 






Lorenzo, I am not too far from you. I am in Sumner County. I have not had to do the rear bearings on either 'Trac, but on our older Explorer, an '04, it was expensive to get done. The '04 had around 140k when we let it go and bought our son an Escape to drive back and forth to college in Memphis. He actually really liked the '04, but the gas mileage was terrible compared to the Escape. :) And the Escape is easier to park in tight college parking areas.
Rear bearing are reasonably easy, providing proper tools.
Pretty sure I made a thread or added to a thread.
Key is to make a support using 2 rear rotors cut and welded together to support the knuckle squarely on the press,
then you wont be cutting/grinding/bashing for a few hours - days trying to remove old bearings
Main issue pressing bearings (removing/installing) if the pressure is not squarely exerted, it seems impossible.
 






Rear bearing are reasonably easy, providing proper tools.
Pretty sure I made a thread or added to a thread.
Key is to make a support using 2 rear rotors cut and welded together to support the knuckle squarely on the press,
then you wont be cutting/grinding/bashing for a few hours - days trying to remove old bearings
Main issue pressing bearings (removing/installing) if the pressure is not squarely exerted, it seems impossible.
I'll be sure to check that out when I'm ready. I don't have a hydraulic press and it was such a pain getting the back brake rotors off I don't think I wanna mess with it again. At least I like my mechanic when I have to hire him.

On the upside. Got the valve cover gaskets & intake gaskets done today. Not too bad of a job but that EGR pipe was a beast to get out. I had to bend it to get it out and bend it back in. Used copious amounts of antiseize on those pipe fittings so I never have to fight like that again. Thankfully no leaks. I also replaced the o-rings in the pcv/breather hoses, cleaned the tb, replaced the pcv, and fixed a vacuum line. That engine is smooth as silk now.
 






Back
Top