a4ld 91 Ranger -- Modulator Pin?

[Ramblinwilly]

In Process of changing modulator. Carefully removed modulator and found that it doesn't have a pin. Where can I get one? Can I make one? And last but not least, I'm assuming I need one correct?

The new and old modulator are both adjustable but have different numbers on each. New is 11005 and old looks like 08009. I'm hoping the new is not for a c3. Any knowledge out there?
Thanks
Willy

 

[arco777]

Yes you need one!

A quick search revealed this thread (click) which lists dimensions.

I have a spare modulator pin in my parts box, I measured it at 1.361" long and 0.124" in diameter. Metric dimensions are 34.58mm long and 3.12mm diameter. The ends are rounded.

Get some stiff piano wire, a drill bit, or allen (hex) key that is as close as possible in diameter. Cut it to length and round the edges slightly so it will slip into place without binding.

I successfully used a cut down allen key to replace a missing modulator pin years ago. It works great to this day. Recently when I rebuilt my valve body I found the missing pin in one of the valve body's pockets. Might be where yours is.

 

[arco777]

For the modulator, check the vacuum nipple/fitting. It should have a nice wide inlet, not a pinhole. If it looks more like a pinhole sized hole for the vacuum to suck through, then it's probably a C3 modulator. There are a few other defining differences that I can't remember, but a forum or internet search may turn up what you need.

Typically the adjustable modulators are correctly set from the manufacturer. This is not always true though. I buy non-adjustable ones just to be safe.

 

[Ramblinwilly]

Spent Friday, Saturday and Sunday trying to resolve problem. Changing modulator made things much worse. Have 1st gear and reverse but nothing else. Put old modulator back in hoping to get back to original isue which was hesitation in 2-3 shift.

I checked the flow of the pump by disconnecting the line going into the top of the radiator. Pump flow is good. Still not fixed.

I made pin from dimensions below. Pin diameter and length is almost dead on in diameter and length. One thing I noticed and need some guidance on. The pin fits perfectly in the modulator. But the modulator is extremely tight when placing back in. Perfect when putting in without pin. The tranny diagram I'm working with shows that there is a removable "sleeve" that the pin fits into on the tranny. With the modulator out, I attempted to push a paper clip in the sleeve and it won't go. I cant see the hole because of the location so I'm literally blind.

Is that sleeve truly removable? My thinking is the old pin may still be there. When I originally took the modulator out I found no pin. I'm dropping the tranny this weekend to get a better look at the pin hole and governor while I'm at it. If the pin is stuck, I'm golden. If not going to plan B which is remanned tranny from Jasper. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Willy.

 

[Ramblinwilly]

Update: Replacing tranny with remanufactured one from Jasper. Removed tranny pan and found unexpected bits of rubber and metal. I did a bit of research on replacement options.

Option 1 Boneyard Tranny Cheap : I'd be throwing the dice on longevity although I could get one for less than $600.00. No warranty. It could last 3 years or three months. Truck is in pretty good shape and expect it to last for a long time.

Option 2 Rebuilt Tranny: Taking a big chance on what exactly was rebuilt and the cost is about $1600 if I do it. My understanding is that a rebuild involves someone replacing what appears to need replacing. Warranties vary but are from 3 to 6 months. Couldn't determine what type of testing is done before the tranny walks out the door.

Option 3 Remanufactured: Spent quite a few hours researching companies that remanufacture; their warranties, price and "supposedly" quality testing. Cost varies but is about $2200.00. The Jasper comes with a 3 year warranty and they've been in business for more than 20 years. Testing includes actual shift/torque converter testing under various loads.
I'm having a local mechanic do the install. When I was removing the old one, I cracked my head on the bell housing and knocked myself out for a few seconds. Used to able to do these. I guess father time catching up. Easy decision.


By the way, I'm hooked on Rangers and Explorers. Just bought a 94 Eddie Bauer Explorer in decent shape. Thanks to all. I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[Ramblinwilly]

Had Jasper tranny installed. All is good so far. A little bit pricey but it comes with a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty. Per Jasper and installer, 16 upgrades were made as well as the diagnostic tests before going out the door. Could be my imagination but for a 2.9, it feels like it has a bit more torque.

 

[Kaylaexpmom]

Yes you need one!

A quick search revealed this thread (click) which lists dimensions.

I have a spare modulator pin in my parts box, I measured it at 1.361" long and 0.124" in diameter. Metric dimensions are 34.58mm long and 3.12mm diameter. The ends are rounded.

Get some stiff piano wire, a drill bit, or allen (hex) key that is as close as possible in diameter. Cut it to length and round the edges slightly so it will slip into place without binding.

I successfully used a cut down allen key to replace a missing modulator pin years ago. It works great to this day. Recently when I rebuilt my valve body I found the missing pin in one of the valve body's pockets. Might be where yours is.

Hi arco777 I have replaced my modulator valve twice and both times my pin fell in to the valve body..Can you tell me how does it do that and how can i fix that problem?
Thanks I'm a newbie wit a 94 ford explorer