natenkiki2004
Blue Bomb!
- Joined
- November 3, 2013
- Messages
- 2,044
- Reaction score
- 80
- Location
- North Idaho
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1991 & 1994 Explorers
I know a lot of you guys have had or read about this issue with the governor sticking in the A4LD trans. The following is what I've experienced on my 1991 Explorer, it should not be an all-purpose fix but rather general information for troubleshooting.
--- Story
All winter long I experienced cold 1-2 shift issues in my A4LD. My way of combatting this was to let the truck idle for a while until it warmed up a bit, usually close to the thermostat opening. If I took off right after starting, it would take significant RPM (up past 3000 at over 30-35MPH) and some driving time to get it to shift into second. I hated doing either of these.
While browsing around, I noticed Seafoam makes a product for transmissions called Trans Tune. Knowing that I probably had to replace the governor in the transmission, forking over $10 for a bottle of fluid seemed like something worthwhile even if it didn't cure my problem. I got it and dumped half a bottle in. There was no immediate effects.
About a month later, after reading about people adding secondary spin-on filters after the radiator cooler, I decided to do the same. When I installed the filter, I first poured the other half container of Trans Tune in the filter and filled the rest with regular ATF.
--- Parts
- Trans Dapt 1028 3/4-16 thread remote oil filter bracket.
- Quality filter, same style that fits your oil (FL-1A, 51515, P8HA, etc).
- 2x 1/2" MPT to 3/8" brass hose barb fittings.
- Various length Parker 300PSI push-loc hose.
- Hose clamps for above hose.
- Wire loom, large enough for above hose (to prevent rubbing on metal).
- Super strong magnets (I used some from a computer hard drive, attach to outside of oil filter).
Notes: The filter bracket isn't great quality. It's a poor cast. While I purchased mine used, I would look a new casting over quite well before using it. Before installation, I opted to apply JB Weld to various places on the cast. One critical spot was the 1/2" NPT threads, there was a crack inside. It could have been from the previous owner but it wasn't severe enough for me to throw it away. I JB Welded the brass fittings inside and caked the area as well. I don't know if hot ATF will eat away at JB Weld, I doubt it will since gasoline doesn't but I'm confident that most anything that would break off would get caught by the magnet or the filter itself. Mine's been on for 7 months without any weeping, leaking or loss of flow through the unit.
--- Results
Now, it's been 2 months and 500 miles since the original dose of Seafoam Trans Tune and it's fixed. I can start the truck, get my seatbelt on and get down the driveway to the main road and from there, at about 20MPH and 1800-2000 RPM, it shifts smoothly into second. That's probably not as early as it should but it's much better than it used to be, effectively solved.
7 Months later - IT'S FIXED!!! http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3356858
--- Thoughts
I can't say for certain that it was the Seafoam alone that fixed the issue or if it was a combination of the spin-on filter and Seafoam. I do know that it is NOT related to the warmer temperatures as the previous owner said this problem existed year-round.
I installed the spin-on filter between the radiator tank cooler and factory auxiliary transmission cooler. Some people say it's better to filter first and then run through both coolers. I would have gone that route but installing it the way I did meant I only had to cut a rubber hose (which I had replaced at the time). The total cost including new hose, filter, fittings & bracket was under $50. Even if you don't have the cold shift issue, I highly recommend a secondary filter. It's cheap, gives you a way to replace about a quart of fluid easily and gives supplemental cooling and filtration. I use the standard Motorcraft FL-1A filter.
I opted to mount the filter right behind the bumper, providing easy access and use the least amount of rubber hose I could. I don't plan on hitting anything but if something damages the bumper enough to break the filter/mount, it takes a screwdriver to remove the hoses and bypass the whole assembly.
Every time I change oil from here on out, a new trans filter will go on with fresh fluid. I am also planning to drop the pan and change out the internal filter and the majority of the fluid in the near future.
--- Pictures (click to view larger)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/Pictures/IMG_20140308_095818.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/Pictures/IMG_20140308_095840.jpg
--- Story
All winter long I experienced cold 1-2 shift issues in my A4LD. My way of combatting this was to let the truck idle for a while until it warmed up a bit, usually close to the thermostat opening. If I took off right after starting, it would take significant RPM (up past 3000 at over 30-35MPH) and some driving time to get it to shift into second. I hated doing either of these.
While browsing around, I noticed Seafoam makes a product for transmissions called Trans Tune. Knowing that I probably had to replace the governor in the transmission, forking over $10 for a bottle of fluid seemed like something worthwhile even if it didn't cure my problem. I got it and dumped half a bottle in. There was no immediate effects.
About a month later, after reading about people adding secondary spin-on filters after the radiator cooler, I decided to do the same. When I installed the filter, I first poured the other half container of Trans Tune in the filter and filled the rest with regular ATF.
--- Parts
- Trans Dapt 1028 3/4-16 thread remote oil filter bracket.
- Quality filter, same style that fits your oil (FL-1A, 51515, P8HA, etc).
- 2x 1/2" MPT to 3/8" brass hose barb fittings.
- Various length Parker 300PSI push-loc hose.
- Hose clamps for above hose.
- Wire loom, large enough for above hose (to prevent rubbing on metal).
- Super strong magnets (I used some from a computer hard drive, attach to outside of oil filter).
Notes: The filter bracket isn't great quality. It's a poor cast. While I purchased mine used, I would look a new casting over quite well before using it. Before installation, I opted to apply JB Weld to various places on the cast. One critical spot was the 1/2" NPT threads, there was a crack inside. It could have been from the previous owner but it wasn't severe enough for me to throw it away. I JB Welded the brass fittings inside and caked the area as well. I don't know if hot ATF will eat away at JB Weld, I doubt it will since gasoline doesn't but I'm confident that most anything that would break off would get caught by the magnet or the filter itself. Mine's been on for 7 months without any weeping, leaking or loss of flow through the unit.
--- Results
Now, it's been 2 months and 500 miles since the original dose of Seafoam Trans Tune and it's fixed. I can start the truck, get my seatbelt on and get down the driveway to the main road and from there, at about 20MPH and 1800-2000 RPM, it shifts smoothly into second. That's probably not as early as it should but it's much better than it used to be, effectively solved.
7 Months later - IT'S FIXED!!! http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3356858
--- Thoughts
I can't say for certain that it was the Seafoam alone that fixed the issue or if it was a combination of the spin-on filter and Seafoam. I do know that it is NOT related to the warmer temperatures as the previous owner said this problem existed year-round.
I installed the spin-on filter between the radiator tank cooler and factory auxiliary transmission cooler. Some people say it's better to filter first and then run through both coolers. I would have gone that route but installing it the way I did meant I only had to cut a rubber hose (which I had replaced at the time). The total cost including new hose, filter, fittings & bracket was under $50. Even if you don't have the cold shift issue, I highly recommend a secondary filter. It's cheap, gives you a way to replace about a quart of fluid easily and gives supplemental cooling and filtration. I use the standard Motorcraft FL-1A filter.
I opted to mount the filter right behind the bumper, providing easy access and use the least amount of rubber hose I could. I don't plan on hitting anything but if something damages the bumper enough to break the filter/mount, it takes a screwdriver to remove the hoses and bypass the whole assembly.
Every time I change oil from here on out, a new trans filter will go on with fresh fluid. I am also planning to drop the pan and change out the internal filter and the majority of the fluid in the near future.
--- Pictures (click to view larger)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/Pictures/IMG_20140308_095818.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/Pictures/IMG_20140308_095840.jpg