A4LD Questions Again

[tbe2002]

So I posted a couple months ago about the trans in my explorer. The problem I main issue with the trans was that once it warmed up it didn't want to shift. It shifted great when it was cold.

Well I figured I would do some work on it. I know it is on its way out but I figured what the heck, might as well try. So I disconnected a cooler line and let the truck run until very little fluid was coming out, I then dropped the pan, replaced the filter, and modulator valve. I then decided to drop the transfer case and clean the governor (It was very sticky). I put it all back together, added the fluid and also adjusted the bands.

Right away there was a big difference, at least it shifted. The fluid that came out looked very bad, it wasn’t burnt though and there was no pieces of anything in there. The problem that I have is that I can't run it at the correct fluid level. For some reason I can't get it low enough to be in-between the marks. I am checking it when it is warm and in park, it is always way above the line and when I drain it to try to get it in the marks, it then acts like there is not enough fluid and slips out of gear. I think there is to much fluid in there, but I can't tell because the dip stick always shows high. I also think that is causing some problem with it not starting in first now after it is warmed up. Although that may also be that the bands are not adjusted correctly.

Which band controls the 1 to 2 shift? Is it the one closest to the front of the truck or the one closest to the rear? I know I may be trying to hard here and I know I need a new tranny here eventually, I am just wondering if there is something easy that I can fix/ adjust to get it to simi normal just until I get the new tranny? Thanks for the help guys

 

[BrooklynBay]

I'll assume that this is for your 93. Is this correct? Check the level when it's first started up in the morning before it is driven. Your symptoms are the opposite of a sticking governor. You might have bad valve body gaskets. The middle intermediate band is for the 1-2 shift. I suspect sticking spools or a bad boost valve in the valve body. Connect a 0-300 PSI pressure gauge onto the rear port to check the pressure in all of the gear ranges.

 

[tbe2002]

Thanks for the reply so fast. Yes it is the 93. I did re touqe the VB while I was under there. Do you think that replacing the VB may solve some of the problem, at least for now?

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could rebuild it unless you feel more comfortable replacing it as an entire unit. Make sure that you get the correct one since there are many different configurations on this valve body.

 

[tbe2002]

If I rebuilt it, would you add a shift kit to it? There is 170,000 miles on the truck now so I don't want to kill it but adding the shift kit on a trans that is that old.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Adding a shift kit won't harm it. Could you update the mileage of that vehicle in your signature?

 

[tbe2002]

Thanks again for the help. I updated my sig. Sorry about that. I agree with you in thinking that it is a VB issue. Once it is in gear, it drives great, it dosen't slip or anything like that. I do belive it is something with presure. I think I will try to do the Glaciers A4ld VB rebuild listed above. I still think I am just buying time. I guess we will see. I am new to the automatic transmission, but learning fast. lol

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check # 10 in my list of useful threads for information on using a pressure gauge.

 

[tbe2002]

Sorry to dig up one of my old posts, but I got a chance to replace the Valve body. The valve body was a used one, but tested good. (or so they say). Anyways now I am having a different issue. It seems like it is starting in second or starting with he torque converter locked when the trans is still cold. It will slowly get up to about 2500 rpm then it will unlock and continue up to almost redline and then shift 2nd,3rd then OD. The weird part is that it seems to go away once it is up to operating temp.

The valve bode did fix the 2nd to 3rd flare I was having. I know I should just give up and get a new trans, but I am seeing some hope. What do you think is going on? Once it warms up the 1st to 2nd is still kind of soft, but the rest are really good.

 

[BrooklynBay]

It could be a sticking governor, bad modulator, leaking servo piston, or misadjusted band. Did you use a 1/4" drive In/LB torque wrench on the valve body bolts when you replaced the valve body? Did you use the regular gaskets, or the slightly thicker ones?

 

[tbe2002]

Ok well I think the tranny is finally done. The pas couple of days it has been doing good until yesterday afternoon. I made a turn and it didn't down shift. Then I came up to a stop light and the truck learched and wanted to stall. I was able to keep it running by keeping it in second until I needed to go. Once at home I put it in park and then no matter what gear I tried to put it in it stalled instantly. I let it sit for a couple hours then went back and checked the fluid. It showed over full (As it always does). I took it for a drive around the neighborhood and as it got to opperating temp, it did it again. I think it is finally time for a rebuild?

 

[BrooklynBay]

It sounds like the torque converter is sticking while its locked. It should release, but it sounds like there is a delay doing this. It could be a bad TCC solenoid, or a partially blocked screen. A binding spool is another possibility. Keep in mind that fluid circulates within the torque converter, so the level might vary if the converter fills up, and dumps out (especially if there is a problem with it dumping, and refilling).

 

[tbe2002]

That makes since. What would u try to do first. I think it does have something to do with the torque converter too, but I don't know how to go about cleaning it or clearing it out. Overdrive did seem to work fine, do you think it could have something to do with the band?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Drop the valve body, replace both solenoids, filter, TCC sock filter, clean the spring in the lower part of the case above the valve body, rebuild the valve body, and possibly add a shift improver kit. Get the thicker valve body gaskets just in case there is a slight amount of warpage on the valve body. Adjust the bands, and kick down cable. If this doesn't work, then get a remanufactured torque converter, and rebuild the rest of the transmission. Flush the front clooler prior to reinstalling the remanufactured transmission.