Thanks for your reply. Was able to repair the ATF leak in the shifter shaft seal area on the driver’s side of the transmission without dropping the transmission. It appears that the shifter shaft seal leak is a frequent problem. Almost every national auto part store, NAPA and Advance, carry the replacement seal - OEM part number 7B498).
The bore of the shifter shaft seal looked nice and smooth and was not wallowed out or scored. It miked 0.750”, indicating little wear. The shifter shaft itself miked 0.742” diameter.
The old shifter shaft seal (two-part seal metal and rubber) sealing lips were stiff and not very rubbery so changed out this seal. Tried to pound in a new one with a hand-held flat plate and a small hammer - no good - distorted the seal. Made a seal driver to reinstall the seal and it went in fine.
The seal goes on the long round section up against the collar of the driver and the long round section goes into the shifter shaft bore to guide the seal in place. The short round end is to hammer on..
Once the shifter shaft seal and the shifter shaft assembly are in place, it is nearly impossible to remove the shifter shaft assembly without ruining the shifter shaft seal - the sharp corners of the groove in the shifter shaft shear off the sealing lips of the seal. I learned the hard way.
The throttle shaft assembly seal was an o-ring and it was replaced with a new o-ring OEM p/n 386078S.
To remove the shifter shaft assembly and throttle shaft assembly, it is necessary to remove the shaft nut holding these two shaft assemblies in place. It was necessary to remove the external neutral safety switch (NSS) before re-assembly as the inner detent lever bears against the inner pin of the NSS, to complete the inner re-assembly.
While the pan was dropped, a soldered-in drain pan drain plug assembly was added.
Replaced the pan gasket (nitrile rubber), o-rings on the ATF filter and the ATF filter before closing up the transmission and re-filling. Used just enough petroleum grease to hold the gasket in place on the pan during re-assembly. Torqued the pan bolts to 100 inch-lbs. So far, so good.
Jack stands used on the front suspension of the Ranger to get enough room to work on the transmission. Didn’t use a creeper to gain a few more inches of working height.
The Glacier991 postings are excellent and recommended for study before doing any A4LD internal work. His A4LD Rebuild Diary starts at this web site
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146956
and the section of work on the shifter and throttle shaft assemblies is on this thread
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113354&page=3
Part 2, 2nd half, Page 3, about 1/3 into this page.
Good luck on your work to find and repair the seal. Let me know if I might have learned something that could be helpful.