ABS autobleed scan tool.

[Bazz270]

Forscan Abs bleeding procedure is not fully functional like the ford IDS one ,but it will work.


Not sure about abs AKA road bleeding since not all of the four wheels will be unlocked for sure in the same abs effort when you need the valves to be fully released for proper abs pump bleeding procedure.

 

[Spaceghost]

Here's a little update I recieved my OBX Link mx+ in the mail and I ran the Forscan ABS bleeder. I Then blead my brakes all around including at the master cylinder. The pedal STILL slowly sinks to the floor, however the car stops on a slight tap of the pedal on a dime. I am at a loss as what I should do.

Edit: I see some people here say to bleed the ABS while the system is closed but the video someone posted states one bleeder should be open and should be done all around. I am confused.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Never have the bleeders open without pressure on the system. The abs purge will force the air out into the lines. After a few cycles, you’ll need to bleed it out the calipers, starting with the furthest one.

 

[BenDT]

Here's a little update I recieved my OBX Link mx+ in the mail and I ran the Forscan ABS bleeder. I Then blead my brakes all around including at the master cylinder. The pedal STILL slowly sinks to the floor, however the car stops on a slight tap of the pedal on a dime. I am at a loss as what I should do.

Edit: I see some people here say to bleed the ABS while the system is closed but the video someone posted states one bleeder should be open and should be done all around. I am confused.

Bleed all lines properly and look for nasty fluid or massive air bubbles. Of it still persists then: Your master cylinder could be pretty old and not holding pressure with seals letting your pedal sink to floor. also IF you are losing ANY brake fluid you have a bigger issue to address, look for lots of rust and wetness on brake lines. If you’re having good brakes but they don’t seem to hold can be air in the lines or you could have a semi blown rubber brake line (check them while someone is pressing pedal) to see if you have any “water balloons” popping up on the line. Another little caveat, your brake booster could be partially torn. Listen for excessive air when you press the pedal. If it’s leaking you DONT want it to totally fail. Excessive travel can wear the seals hard.

 

[Spaceghost]

Bleed all lines properly and look for nasty fluid or massive air bubbles. Of it still persists then: Your master cylinder could be pretty old and not holding pressure with seals letting your pedal sink to floor. also IF you are losing ANY brake fluid you have a bigger issue to address, look for lots of rust and wetness on brake lines. If you’re having good brakes but they don’t seem to hold can be air in the lines or you could have a semi blown rubber brake line (check them while someone is pressing pedal) to see if you have any “water balloons” popping up on the line. Another little caveat, your brake booster could be partially torn. Listen for excessive air when you press the pedal. If it’s leaking you DONT want it to totally fail. Excessive travel can wear the seals hard.

A few months ago, the hard brake line went and the whole system went dry. It was a week before I could look at it. I replaced the line and replaced the fluid. I was still having problems, I replaced and bench blead master cylinder and did hoses, calipers, pads and rotors all around. The brake pedal slowly goes to floor but the slightest tap will stop the car completely. I then blead the ABS with the forscan lite app and then blead the brakes all around even bleed the master cylinder at the side bleeder port but still the pedal sinks to the floor. At this point I may just take it to a professional.

 

[BenDT]

A few months ago, the hard brake line went and the whole system went dry. It was a week before I could look at it. I replaced the line and replaced the fluid. I was still having problems, I replaced and bench blead master cylinder and did hoses, calipers, pads and rotors all around. The brake pedal slowly goes to floor but the slightest tap will stop the car completely. I then blead the ABS with the forscan lite app and then blead the brakes all around even bleed the master cylinder at the side bleeder port but still the pedal sinks to the floor. At this point I may just take it to a professional.

I do believe I read all that previously and sorry for not mentioning so. I always readdress issues from the beginning of diagnostic procedure as when you change one thing it “can” impact the whole process. It sounds like air for sure. Had the issue myself. I’ve also had defective abs units after they dry. Seals tearing or check valves not rechecking. Whatever the issue pulling an abs fuse to check is an option To bypass and see what happens. Also I have had bad master cylinders do that. I say bad. Some you cannot depress fully without seals tearing. So it is sadly a possibility that happened. I did it on a 2500 Chevy assembly. And had all the brakes you wanted but would bleed down and lose pressure. Could pump and have no issue. New master solved my problem with that and it WAS my fault. Another idea if you don’t wanna pay the bill.

 

[Spaceghost]

I do believe I read all that previously and sorry for not mentioning so. I always readdress issues from the beginning of diagnostic procedure as when you change one thing it “can” impact the whole process. It sounds like air for sure. Had the issue myself. I’ve also had defective abs units after they dry. Seals tearing or check valves not rechecking. Whatever the issue pulling an abs fuse to check is an option To bypass and see what happens. Also I have had bad master cylinders do that. I say bad. Some you cannot depress fully without seals tearing. So it is sadly a possibility that happened. I did it on a 2500 Chevy assembly. And had all the brakes you wanted but would bleed down and lose pressure. Could pump and have no issue. New master solved my problem with that and it WAS my fault. Another idea if you don’t wanna pay the bill.

Sounds like I have a bad ABS pump...

 

[Rod's Repair]

I thought abs had to be “open” with a scanner to allow backflow, like all Chevy abs I’m 99.999% sure, and dodge/jeep pretty sure same. But even then it’s highly not recommended bc of the possibility of contamination to the abs unit and seals. I know some big trucks use a back bleeder if you don’t touch the master cyclinder (brake assist masters) because how involved removing them is, but even then I do believe you need a scan tool? Not trying to discredit you. Just goes against everything I’ve done and or read in any Manuel. If I’m just out of the loop please explain. I personally had broken an abs unit simply compressing pistons too much and it caused an internal fault of some kind needing the unit to be rebuilt/replaced.

Usually by the time I get to bleed the abs, someone has tried conventional bleeding enough that I have clean fluid in the lines. I am a retired senior master tech and have done several that the abs bleed w/ scanner wouldn't clear. (Mustangs come to mind first), but have done several and never lost an Abs module on any. Funny thing is that I have actually used it to revive an abs module that have a valve stuck.

 

[BenDT]

Usually by the time I get to bleed the abs, someone has tried conventional bleeding enough that I have clean fluid in the lines. I am a retired senior master tech and have done several that the abs bleed w/ scanner wouldn't clear. (Mustangs come to mind first), but have done several and never lost an Abs module on any. Funny thing is that I have actually used it to revive an abs module that have a valve stuck.

I totally don’t doubt that. Especially with the precious having been attempted to no avail. Makes sense. Dry unit and a seal or check is open it probably can’t build pressure to purge the air but back flow would recheck or pressurize a side that isn’t working possibly. Learn something every day. I trust experience from a tech over an over engineering engineer any day.