ABS issue (yellow warning light).

[jorb]

Lot's of good miles on this baby 15 year owner here. Always been fixn'er myself for the 150000 miles now acquired but I need some help.

Getting ready to jump the expressway, starting to roll out and the ABS light comes on. Not knowing how important this light is I turned and went back home. After reading about the ABS system I see it is very complicated (for me) but doesn't seem to affect the normal day to day braking. In fact, in 95 it was an option for some of the ford trucks.

There seems to be a hydraulic side and an electrical side to the system with many components in between that are exposed to weather and what not so I am having trouble shooting problems.

Sometime ago I bought an ECM code reader that I have used many times in trouble shooting the explorer and noticed it also has a section on retrieving ABS fault codes; it gives 4 places to look for the TEST CONNECTOR which I have spent the day looking for. I was hoping to pull the code(s) and proceed to the problem but I can't even get to the Black Box and then I don't know if this model reader will fit. So here I am wondering if anyone can help me push along and fix this thing.

Questions:

1. Where (if any) is the ABS test connector on my 95 explorer 4x4 ?
2. Will the Innova Electronics Corp. model 3143? be compatible and if not is there any OTHER way to obtain the codes other than paying for it (My Autozone doesn't test ABS)?
3. Other than a piece of tape over the light is there another way to circumvent the light until I can get it fixed ?

Thanks for your time

jorb

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the stock 95-01 section. I had a problem trying to find where the test connector was too. The easiest way to find out what the code numbers are is to connect a jumper wire directly into the ABS module's connector while it's still plugged into the module. The light on the dashboad will flash a code.

 

[ZAID*512]

I justed fix my ABS brake light that has been on for years and it was a pretty easy fix. First of all the problem was both sensors were dirty.

Then the rotor has an area that looks like an encoder wheel and that is used for the sensor to control your brakes. There is a metal line empty slot, metal line, empty solt all around and this is why your brakes pulse on and off based on the detection of the metal line verses sensing nothing on the empty slot. This pulsing is what you feel in your brake pedal if you have to slam on your breaks and prevent your brakes from locking up.

If the empty slots get full of crude and they do then your sensor gets dirty.

The other day I just cleaned the sensor and the light stayed off for about an hour then when I check yesterday the sensor was dirty again. So I decided to try clean the encoder wheel area without having to take off the rotor and wheel bearings.

First jack up your Explorer so that both tires rotate freely and place your jackstands in a good mounting area. Then take an 8mm wrench or ratchet and on the back of your spindle remove the bolt to pull out your sensor. It will most likely have black crude on it wipe it off and clean it with degreaser. Then take some break cleaner and spray it in the sensor hole while rotating your tire. This will help clean the encoder wheel area. I sprayed a blue shop towel with brake cleaner stuck in the hole and rotated the tire to clean the clogged slots better. I also just stuck my finger in there and moved it up and down while rotating the tire that seemed to work best. You will see all this black crude falling down. Once you get it as clean as you can then you can start putting things back together.

Place your sensor back in and tighten the bolt. Lower you Explorer and start it up. If this was your issue then the ABS light will go out and it should work till it crudes up again.

I drove around all day and no ABS light.

Hope this helps.

 

[BrianDye]

It could also be a worn/bad wire, happened on my buddies 95, somehow his wire was exposed and grounding out (Or may have been completely disconnected, I dont remember) But anyways bad wire, so he spliced a new one in, and all was well

If the light irks you that bad, you could pop the gauge cluster out, and pop the bulb out, but I mean thats a good 30 minute job (Completed) so its up to you. Or I think theres an ABS fuse? You could try pulling that...

 

[jorb]

Thanks for getting me into the correct forum. I'm now getting some great feedback on the ABS issue.

Some More background and FYI. I got the light to go off and stay off while the key is on and the self test procedure was going on, back out of the garage, all was well then forward less then 5m/hr and the light is back on. Turn the key off and back on and the light extinguishes after self test, then on when I move forward. I can repeat this 3-4 times same o same o.

Your comment about using a jumper wire to get the codes from the light is what I'd like to try. My ABS module harness sits in the left forward fender right next to the battery. I had to pull the battery to get the harness off for cleaning. Also, further forward behind a flexible barrier is another module with a smaller harness, this harness is very hard to get to. Maybe you could advise which module and how one would jumper the module (which pin etc.) so I could get the light to give up the codes. I'd like to get this info before tackling a complete sensor cleaning. Although, in the end, this is what my have to be done.

Thanks to all,
jorb

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check # 93 in my list of useful threads for more information: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241825

 

[ZAID*512]

I wouldn't even mess with checking codes with 150,000 miles your sensor and encoder wheel area have to be cruded all up, unless you just recently replaced your rotor.

You can check your sensors in 5 minutes with one 8mm bolt removal and not even have to jack up your Explorer. If your sensor is dirty most likely that is your problem and the encoder area will need to be cleaned as well. Now if you want to rotate your tires to clean the encoder wheel area then you will need a jack and stands.

Good Luck!!!

 

[jorb]

Hi Zaid*512,

To see what you are talking about I jacked the front end up, I see the sensor cable with shielding around winding its way down, running to the inside of the the spindle casting. The space between spindle casting and sensor cable is large enough to get a finger in. However, there is no bolt near by, the area is clear. From my view I don't see where I can get the sensor to just pull out by loosening a 8mm bolt. Both Lt. and Rt. sides are the same. Is it possible my 95 2Dr explorer 4x4 is different or am I just not looking in the right spot? When I swapped out my front rotors a while back I don't recall seeing a bolt from that side either, but then, I was focused on the swap out.

 

[ZAID*512]

Well mine is 2 wheel drive, so I am not sure about the difference. Tomorrow I am going to change my control arm bushings so I will snap a few picks and post them to show you how mine look, maybe this will help.

How long ago did you change your rotors? You know when I changed my rotors that is when I noticed how clogged the encoder area was and realized how the ABS works. I didn't think to clean my sensor and the ABS light stayed on till yesterday. I drove all day today and no ABS light.

So far the fix has worked.

 

[jorb]

Thanks for the picture offer. I changed rotors a couple years back, for about the 3rd time, they keep warping? I didn't see the encoder ring. I now believe the 4x4 is configured differently then yours I just read that the front ABS sensors are not
serviceable on the 4x4. The same article provided some resistance values for the front sensor. I guess I'll take those measurements and see what I get, before moving on.

 

[ZAID*512]

OK, well good luck.

For those that have 2WD Explorers this could be a potential easy fix for an ABS issue.

 

[Dono]

I just read that the front ABS sensors are not
serviceable on the 4x4. The same article provided some resistance values for the front sensor. I guess I'll take those measurements and see what I get, before moving on.

Anyone see this article? I'd love to get my hands on it. Testing the sensors would be far better than the shotgun approach.

 

[hworksinc]

Thanks for the picture offer. I changed rotors a couple years back, for about the 3rd time, they keep warping? I didn't see the encoder ring. I now believe the 4x4 is configured differently then yours I just read that the front ABS sensors are not
serviceable on the 4x4. The same article provided some resistance values for the front sensor. I guess I'll take those measurements and see what I get, before moving on.

The sensors are technically not "user serviceable" since the whole 4x4 front hub is supposed to be sealed. HOWEVER, it is possible to clean the sensors. You have to take off the wheel, caliper, disk, and dust shield, then you will see where the sensor bolts onto the hub (right now you can see where the wire dives behind the dust shield). From there you can remove the sensor CAREFULLY and wipe it off. I recommend against spraying anything in the hole, since the hub is supposed to be sealed. IMPORTANT NOTE: if there are metal shavings in the hole, it may indicate that your hub is on it's way out (some compressed air may be able to clean shavings out, but they are an indicator of hub damage).

I had issues with an intermittent ABS light last summer, and while I was doing my brakes I cleaned both front ABS sensors. Problem solved after removing some light gunk on the sensors.

 

[jorb]

Since my last post I have done the following trying to isolate that "Yellow Light" issue:


>tested continuity and cleaned the connections to the ABS system including the following:

>tested master cylinder switch and wires.

>Tested both the left and right wheel sensors (including blasting air down the diving sensor leads). Also, raised the truck and checked for looseness in the spindle wheel bearings, pushing and pulling the wheel back and forth--I didn't feel any slop in either of the bearings. All wiring to the sensors are double protected and included a large piece of protective weave at the entrance to the bearing housing. Both sides pass the wiggle test. I took resistance measurements of the two magnetic sensor coils while in a static mode and measured 400,403 ohms respectively--it should be 200-300 ohms. Given both were virtually the same I presume they are OK. While the truck was up I rotated the tire and had resistance fluctuations as the tire spun indicating the sensors were working. Both sides were good or I should say, the same.

>I removed the rear RABS differential sensor and performed the same resistance test, it measured within the given spec. I cleaned the removed sensor (not very dirty for 150k miles). NOTE: do your surface cleaning before removing the bolt and sensor; my housing was nasty with rust, dirt etc. wouldn't want that falling into the differential via the sensor hole. I put the same sensor back, also checked the wiring. All was OKAY.

>Checked the pump motor by removing the connector and hooking in a straight battery voltage. The motor ran nicely, however only the motor ran and not the solenoid. I'm scratching my head a little over that test.

>The ABS and RABS relays and fuse tested okay. All wire harness connections were disconnected, cleaned and blown clean.

After the above procedures I turned the ignition on and off about 38 times (the spec was 50) so the codes cleared and the light was out.

Now it was time for the litmus test. I started the truck (self test light went out), went out the driveway, turned left then right, accelerated to 55, went a couple miles to the Fleet & Farm, pulled into the parking spot, and while making that slow right into the spot the light came on and has been on ever since.

I never did check the module up in front on the left. It's in front of the battery behind the first wall attached to the next wall about where the headlights are. An amazing place to put a computer, virtually out of range for my hands.

I've gone as far as I can, I really need to read the default codes. This truck (95) doesn't seem to have the code connector I have read about. I can find only a knee-high connector beneath the steering wheel on the driver's side, inside the truck, this is not the EEC connector; it is under the hood. I assume it's the ABS test connector? I wonder if someone could confirm that this is the ABS code retrieval connector

I admit I am obsessive, that's why I just couldn't put tape over the light and let it go. I wanted to get it fixed. Still do.

 

[MudXplorer]

when my abs light came on, i talked to my mechanic. he says that 9 out of every 10 explorers he has worked on for an abs light just needed the sensor in the rear differential replaced, diffinatly fixed mine!