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ABS Light and new brakes

96s281

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Hey everyone...I did a search and found some information but nothing specifically related to my issue so I figured I'd give a new thread a shot...

I just got all 4 brakes and rototrs replaced over the weekend. I also had my e-brake repaired since it pretty much crumbled apart like most 2002's do (it's a 2002 EB edition). Well not even 3 days after getting it back, my ABS light came on.

Doing various searches I found some sensor suggestions, but I wasn't sure if getting new brakes/rotors could have a direct effect on my ABS. Logically I think it would, and it's the first time the light came on in over two years, but I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to brakes.

I want to get a couple ideas prior to taking it back to the mechanic b/c I really don't want to be handed some bull from these guys.

Thanks for your time.
 



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abs shouldn't be related. I change all of mine pad/rotors same deal as yours and no ABS light. Sounds like someone unhooked broke a wire maybe possibly the fronts? The rear the sensor is on the diff so they shouldn't have gotten close. But i think the light would come on when you picked it up. It might be coincidence.

You can scan it and find out whats wrong. but it sounds like the dealer is the only one who can with NGS I'd check around first before i go to them.
 






abs shouldn't be related. I change all of mine pad/rotors same deal as yours and no ABS light. Sounds like someone unhooked broke a wire maybe possibly the fronts? The rear the sensor is on the diff so they shouldn't have gotten close. But i think the light would come on when you picked it up. It might be coincidence.

You can scan it and find out whats wrong. but it sounds like the dealer is the only one who can with NGS I'd check around first before i go to them.

Well it didn't come on today, so maybe something just jarred loose? I have no idea. I'll have it scanned next time it shows up then take it from there...maybe reposting in this thread.

Thanks!
 






well.....

It happened to mine once. Best I can figure it has to do with pushing brake fluid back out to accomodate the new pads. Maybe it uncalibrates something in there, or some of the dirt from the caliper gets hung up in something upstream. Dunno. I do know it went away after like a day or so and I never had the problem again, or during the next pad change...

-Shawn
 






I ended up taking the truck back to the guys who did my brakes...and it's not great news.

I need a new wheel hub assembly, an easy couple hundred dollars. I have been hearing a loud winding noise for a little so I should've checked on it before, but the hub assembly is bad, which throws off the ABS...hence the light.

Well that's my story. Hopefully it's an easier/cheaper fix for anyone experiencing the same problem.
 












I've had abs light problems before, it would come on at random. Turned out to be a loose connection on one of the speed sensors. It also affected my cruise control.
 






my abs light is on too but i know both of my front wheel bearings are really bad so i found them on ebay for 137 for both with free shipping
 






I have the same issue with the ABS light on...if you have wheel hub assembly issues, you should feel the wheels a little loose when doing vertical or horizontal movement check, correct? I can let the steering wheel alone @ 70mph and the truck goes completelyh straight...:rolleyes:

I don't have any idea but hopefully it should not be the bearings...the light comes on and off...sometimes when it is on I feel the brakes kind of different...maybe it is my mind playing tricks on me, but I feel the brakes kinda weird...

Can anyone help?
 






i had both of my front hub assemblies go bad and the abs light came on

when i replaced both of them the light went off they arent that hard either
 






so on my 02 i did the breaks and then the next week the light came on! two days after that my drivers rear wheel bearing went bad. it was $480.00 part,labor, and tax. just one week later i have a wining coming from the rear. so i have the shop take a look at it and the reason the light is on was the rear end is shot. if i would of know about the sh%tty problems i would of never got this body style!!!!!!!!!
 






I went to a local shop and it said a couple of codes...can't remember good but I think it was C172 and C173...had to do with left and right speed sensors? What the heck? They were closing so they told me to go on monday...can anyone give me a light here?:rolleyes:
 






On my 2000 Ford Excursion I changed the front calipers and the abs light came on, turns out that you have to disconnect the battery when you change the calipers or you can damage the rear wheel speed sensor.
 






Lots-of-Fords, can you clarify how changing the calipers would affect the rear WSS?

I replaced both front wheel bearing assemblies on my '96 4.0L EB Explorer and my ABS light has been coming on occasionally. Sometimes when I start the motor sometime after I've driven a while (it goes off if I put it in neutral, shut down the motor and start it again but it will stay on if I do the same procedure at a stop light with my foot on the brake) We didn't disconnect the batt so I wonder if that's where my problem lies. If you have further insight I’m all ears. Thanks! :thumbsup:
 






I cannot explain it, It doesn't make any sense to me. The mechanic at ford told me about the problem, I thought for 15 or 20 dollars and 5 minutes of work I'd try it, and it worked.
 






I need to get the code read anyway, hopefully that will shed some light on it. If there's no luck there I'll try replacing the rear WSS. At least I can get it to shut off... for now. Thanks for the reply.
 






I went to a local shop and it said a couple of codes...can't remember good but I think it was C172 and C173...had to do with left and right speed sensors? What the heck? They were closing so they told me to go on monday...can anyone give me a light here?:rolleyes:

Anyone? Have no clue on what to do...don't want to spend any more money on the x.
 






I case someone find this at a later date this is what I found.
I just finally fixed mine. The ABS lightwould come on and also no cruise too.

Best thing and cheapest is to have someone read the ABS code. It will help a lot as there are about 9-11 sensors that can go bad: ABS module, Brake Pressure Transducer, L/R Front wheel sensors, Brake Travel sensor, rear wheel sensor(s), accelerometer, steering wheel rotation, traction control switch. The most common from reading this fourm are the Rear diff sensor, and if you have it the master cylinder switch, and then the fronts bearings.

The front sensors are bolted to the front hub as the tone ring is integrated with the bearing, its a steel plate with teeth on it. Usually if the sensors go bad the bearing is usually bad too, as you can hear a lot of bearing noise. $110 for the part and if you have really good tools, compressed air is a must, small compact impact, good sockets . . .maybe you can DIY. I had none of those and I couldn’t get the bolts off with all the rust, they also RTV old bearing in the hub just to make it fun. I replaced both fronts bearings, they made noise but were not lose when you tried to shake the wheel, but tight. Spinning it with the tire on you couldn’t hear or feel anything, once removed I could feel rough spots when I turned it by hand but the sensor looked fine, and was.

Rears may have two sensors or one depending on if you have RSC. Non-RSC there is one sensor on the diff, RSS, the tone ring is part of the Ring Gear in the diff. The sensor is $34, pia to get that one bolt but for the most part a simple job. RSC have two ‘standard’ sensors and ring on next to the CV joint.

There also maybe one sensor on the master cylinder, ‘speed control deactivator’, only a $20 part, has a history of going bad in earlier years. I not sure but it might come with movable pedals. . . .its used to disengage the cruise. Simplest part to replace, only need a pair of vise grips. . . .i just unscrewed it and put the new one on. Didn’t seem to add any air to the brake system even though its opened. . .

The best way to diagnose it, is to have someone pull codes, not everyone can do it as the ABS codes are proprietary, so you have to ask if they specifically can read ford ABS codes. Dealer wants $90 to do it, not sure if a local parts store can, a brake shop may. There are about 50 ABS codes and they can really tell you whats wrong and how to diagnose it, unfortunately a lot of them end with ABS module$$$$$.

The second time the ABS light cam on it was the ‘speed control deactivator’ first time was the RSS.
 






Thanks Bro for the response...
Update...
Got the codes pulled again...turns out it was the front right side speed sensor...paid $150 total...:eek:

This was done last thursday...friday no problems...on saturday I had to go visit my grandparents for a 160 mile trip...when I was approx. at the 120 mile mark, the SOB abs light came on again...I was superbly frustrated...damn...:mad:
When I got to my grandparents', turned it off and tried a couple of times to turn it on to see if it would go off, but nothing happened...four hours later it was time to head back home...guess what? the freakin' ABS light was off???!!!!:confused:
When I hit like 80 miles back home it came back again...!!!On sunday it was off in the morning and now it is back on!!!

One thing...when I hit the gas on a highway I hear a very very low humming sound...but it is SUPER LOW...if you let go the gas pedal, you don't hear a thing...you can hear a mosquito flying around for cryin' out loud...it may be my mind plaing tricks on me...!!!!lol...I don't think that this has to do with my hub assemblies as there is not horizontal or vertical play on the wheels???!!!

So frustrated with this...someone please help me pull the rabbitt outta the damn hat!!!???;)
 



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i know your pain - $500 -2 wheel bearings later mine is fixed with a $20 part, there might be a switch on the master cyl., do you have movable pedals? I changed my front pads, month later the ABS light is on, it was that switch. I don't know where abouts are you, but, the rear sensor is (if you have only one - non-RSC) only $34 add $20 for the switch will run what i paid for a diaganostic . . .i hate doing that. I finally gave up and had the code read . .
 






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