AC stopped working, but this is a weird one

[kmarnes]

Hi, bought my 2017 Explorer new. I've had it for almost 8 years now with a grand total of 48000km (30000 miles). It's been quite solid so far. The only actual repair I needed under factory warranty was that my transmission fluid was low and I was stalling going up hills. They fixed that and it's been fine ever since.

I was in a minor car accident last year where a civic t-boned me coming out of an alley. His car was totaled, but the explorer had a small dent in the passenger side rear door (pretty low). I ended up driving it for nearly a year before getting it repaired. Living in Vancouver BC, the weather has been pretty chilly. The car was repaired back in February and during the process they had to replace the door as there was some underlying damage.

So fast forward to a couple days ago, the weather was pretty warm for the first time (25C/77F) and I noticed the AC wasn't blowing cold air at all. Took it to a local shop, and they had determined there was zero gas in the closed circuit but also no leak. That's when I asked the question -- whether that door could be near an AC line. Just don't know which side it runs down... driver side or passenger side, or both? Obviously AC goes all the way to the 3rd row.

It seems probably the collision shop removed it and didn't recharge it. So just checking if anyone knows more. Thanks! Btw, the collision shop just called me back and said they replace doors all the time and they don't think they triggered this.

Which would indicate I have a leak that a vacuum test couldn't confirm? Or collision shop is wrong? They are in the process of charging the AC and performing a dye test.

 

[ProjectSHO89]

and they had determined there was zero gas in the closed circuit but also no leak.

Well, that cannot be true. If it didn't have a leak, it would still have the refrigerant in it.

Which would indicate I have a leak that a vacuum test couldn't confirm?

A leaking service valve could account for that...

They are in the process of charging the AC and performing a dye test.

You need those test results to move forward.

 

[FordFlintrock]

The rear HVAC is on the driver side with most of piping running down left center so no passenger side mishap or door replacement would be the cause of a leak. Using a much more sensitive micron gauge over your typical dial gauge will quickly show if there are leaks under evacuation. If it holds a vacuum I next go to pressurizing the system with dry nitrogen. Looking for PAG oil traces is usually a good step in locating leaks but if the system has been discharged for an extended period it usually has long since washed away.

 

[kmarnes]

The rear HVAC is on the driver side with most of piping running down left center so no passenger side mishap or door replacement would be the cause of a leak. Using a much more sensitive micron gauge over your typical dial gauge will quickly show if there are leaks under evacuation. If it holds a vacuum I next go to pressurizing the system with dry nitrogen. Looking for PAG oil traces is usually a good step in locating leaks but if the system has been discharged for an extended period it usually has long since washed away.

Thanks! That's the answer I was looking for. Now that it's charged and dyed, they recommended whenever I get my next oil change, they can look for green eye once it's hoisted up. But apparently a lot of the piping isn't visible. They said a super slow leak could drain in 6-12 months.

As I was driving home from the shop, the AC was frighteningly cold. I had my temperature set to 21.5C for the most part, so I had to turn it up (and I also caught that AC recycling mode was on, likely from their testing). I never use that mode.

If any green dye gets spotted on a valve, is it possible to repair it or would it have to be drained/recharged again. I suspect it's the latter. Just don't know if they can reuse it or if I'd be out another $300.

 

[FordFlintrock]

If any green dye gets spotted on a valve, is it possible to repair it or would it have to be drained/recharged again. I suspect it's the latter. Just don't know if they can reuse it or if I'd be out another $300.

Unless contaminated all refrigerant is recycled and reused by law. The dye is meant to be used and easily spotted with a UV black light which can be gotten on Amazon for as little as $10. Any leak repair other than valve cores at the service fittings or a loose fitting would require another reclaim, recycle and reuse. An electronic refrigerant sniffer if used correctly is another tool in the arsenal.

 

[kmarnes]

So 3 days after I got my car back, the AC stopped blowing cold air again. So either I have a wicked fast leak or something else is going on. Not sure it's related, but my engine light went on for the first time with a P04DB code (crankcase ventilation system disconnected). Don't think it's related.

What do you think the AC problem could be at this point?

 

[texsn95]

A piece of debris circulating in the lines and possibly blocking the orifice tube?

 

[FordFlintrock]

So 3 days after I got my car back, the AC stopped blowing cold air again. So either I have a wicked fast leak or something else is going on. Not sure it's related, but my engine light went on for the first time with a P04DB code (crankcase ventilation system disconnected). Don't think it's related.
What do you think the AC problem could be at this point?

If the body shop is doing the work on the A/C system they mainly just replace parts, hook the machine up and down the road. I recently did a job on a truck fresh from the body shop with A/C problems and it was over charged.
If a legit shop is who said held a vacuum will give them the benefit of the doubt it did not leak out this fast and call an electrical issue such as a relay or pressure transducer.