Air Conditioner Compressor shot?

[V8 Explorer]

Just wondering through anyone elses experience.
Is a compressor shot when it starts locking up when turned on or could it just be a clutch problem?
I would like to be alittle more informed before I take it in to have it looked at?

The air conditioner was on when travelling down the highway and there was a burning smell. I stopped the truck and the belt was smoking where it contacts the compressor pulley.
I turned the air conditioning back on a day later and it seems to be running fine, but there is a leak of refridgerant or something because it is slightly oily along the top of the pulley. Smells like Refridge.
I don't want to take a chance and run it too long.
Something is screwed up somewhere.
Anybody have suggestions?
Thanks!

 

[Rhett]

I believe the a/c clutch does contain some lubricating oil. If the clutch has lost some or all of its lubricant it probably won't run too long that way. I think you can replace just the clutch and not the entire compressor, which would be nice (cheaper) but I'm not sure on that...

 

[Glacier991]

The A/C clutch runs on a sealed bearing. The clutch itself is electromagnetic and contains no lubricant. If the clutch siezed it would just run the compressor constantly. Bad clutches tend to run out of round or make a lot of noise, not cause belt burning and total rotational inability. It's your compressor. Unplug the wire connector to the compressor and do not run it. If it is in it's death throes (as is most probably the case since it WILL run intermittently) it will only distribute debris throughout your system making the repair a lot more expensive.

Clutches can be removed - it's not all that difficult IF you have the tools which are specialized for that task. But a replacement compressor will in nearly all cases have a new clutch, and you do not save a lot by trying to reuse the old one. The fs-10 and fx-15's on Ex's are notorious for failures like this. A new one will run you under $250 with clutch.

Your compressor is history. Check the orifice valve to see how much debris it's caught - you can then plan from there as what all you might want to do. However, until you have done that, do not run the compressor!!!


Happy Exploring

Chris

 

[V8 Explorer]

Thanks alot for the info.
The compressor is unplugged as we speak.
I'm off tomorrow to get a replacement, afterall, I live in Oklahoma and we have been over 100 degrees the last 5 days.....whew!

 

[f-64]

Hey there folks,
I just saw what you have been talking about and I believe that my compressor is just about history also. Although It still runs and cools but the best it can do is 60deg at the vent on a day like today. Here is Phoenix it was about 115deg outside. I just raplace the orifce tube last week because I thought the preformance was degraded and found that the oil looked a little black. However there were no particales but I think that it is all over now and I am going to tare it down and compleatly redue the system. I hope that I can get the vent temp down some once this is compleated. The low side pressure is high about 50-60 @ 1500rpm and the high side about 200.

Oh by the way I just went through all this a year ago and the compressor I used then came from Auto Zone.

If anyone can give me an idea what the vent temp should be please let me know.
Thanks, Bob

 

[Glacier991]

vent temps ought to be in the 40's at least.... but before you condemn your compressor.... look at charge and other things... don;t jump into a compressor replace when it might be something far less serious... like a charge situation.... I wish I had pressures and temps too....But I know that's not something everyone can give me.

Happy Exploring

Chris