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Air Intake

2001 Air Intake Mod.

I installed the shop-vac hose today with the stock airbox in place. The snorkle from the airbox exits the engine bay into a forward compartment right behind the headlight. I used an old Hoover vacuum brush attachment with panty-hose (thanks Honey) on the intake end of the flex tubing and placed it behind the front air dam, up and back about eight inches. There were plenty of attachment points to fix the intake tube with plastic cable ties. Next I fished it up and placed the output of the air feed into the same compartment the snorkle resides in, except not pointed directly at it. That way, anything that comes up the tube must bounce of an interior wall before it can circulate and move into the airbox. I'll let everyone know if there's any perform/mileage improvement
 



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i gunna do that!
 






Originally posted by Jeckles
Sorry for the long post...

Hot air is exactly why I didn't drill my box or use a KKM system. On autocross cars, the dyno results show a loss in HP after these mods, mostly because they draw air from under the hood. I haven't seen any before&after dyno tests here, so I can say for sure how the Explores fare with these mods, but I know hot air is bad!

The reason their dyno results are worse is because the car isn't moving. I hooked up my scanner to monitor my Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor while driving. I found that once I was moving it was within a few degrees of my overhead thermometer which checks to within 1 degree of our temperature standard at work. Once I come to a stop, though the IAT climbs very quickly. The sensor is much quicker to react than my overhead thermometer. Sitting at a stop sign for 30 seconds is long enough to get the temperature to climb 20 degrees. But 30 seconds after pulling away from the stop sign my temperature goes right back down to near ambient. In heavy traffic, on the freeway, it runs about 10 degrees above ambient. The magical outside temperature number seems to be about 90 for feeling the power loss. Here in Phoenix, that covers half the year.
 






Originally posted by Robert

Once I come to a stop, though the IAT climbs very quickly. The sensor is much quicker to react than my overhead thermometer. Sitting at a stop sign for 30 seconds is long enough to get the temperature to climb 20 degrees. But 30 seconds after pulling away from the stop sign my temperature goes right back down to near ambient.

It would seam to me that it is exactly at this time (sitting at the light waiting for the green) that you want as much power to be available as possible.

I think that these "open element" filter systems do, overall, improve performance but I think you could have better performance with an "open element" filter that pulled in only outside air. (what?)

I know I saw it somewhere and I don't remember where, a chart that showed the effects air temperature has on HP.
 






MY THROTTLE BODY CAME TODAY!!! Its uglier than I thought though.... hehe...

nick
 






Originally posted by Cameron
It would seam to me that it is exactly at this time (sitting at the light waiting for the green) that you want as much power to be available as possible.

I think that these "open element" filter systems do, overall, improve performance but I think you could have better performance with an "open element" filter that pulled in only outside air. (what?)

I know I saw it somewhere and I don't remember where, a chart that showed the effects air temperature has on HP. [/B]

Only about 1/2 the time for me, the other time I want more power is when I am passing. Like I said, as soon as you I am moving, the temperature starts falling. It probably falls quicker than the IAT shows, but even the IAT falls quickly. I can say that even if Phoenix, my FIPK makes more power when it is 110 degrees outside than my stock air-box made. When I put my 265 tires on, it felt like I lost about 2 tenths of a second in the 1/4 mile. Once I put the FIPK on, it takes off a little quicker than it did before I put the larger tires on. What affects the horsepower, is the density of the air which is related to the temperature. I do agree though, that if I could stick my open air filter outside of my engine compartment, I would probably benefit from it. But, it is not absolutely necessary, since I still benefit from the added power. My Explorer has always felt weaker once the temperature gets above 90. It just wasn't as dramatic as it is with the FIPK.
 






I agree with robert. The heat DOES make a diffrence... but here where its 105 outside right now...i still have more power taking off with my KKM than I did without. Im going to be relocating my battery... maybe tonight.. to move the air filter to the front, by the headlight... :)

nick
 






Relocated K&N FIPK filter

Due to my increased concern for the heat getting to my air-filter I decided maybe it would be better to relocate it. What do you think?

Dead Link Removed
 






I dont know where the filter is in a 97.. but mine is behind the battery...what im attempting to do it relocate the battery where the airfilter was and move the air up front. Im just trying to figure out how to make the pipe fit... a body lift would hurt either...

nick
 






haha... the picture was a little late downloading... i love it! hehe. Have you seen the snorkle air filters that come through the hood? Those a neat!!

nick
 






I tried the 3" piping, but it was way to big for my 1991 TB and MAF inlet. They do not have a 2.5" at the local Lowes. I will try to fit the 2" to 3" rubber boot over the inlets and use 3" pipe to connect.

How was moving the battery to the airbox location?? That is next. Please email if you have pics!
 






I have 3" piping and connectors... and they are slightly too big... I am using the Furnco plumbing connectors to attach to the MAS and I hear you use a 3" PVC cap to attach to the TB. You have to drill out the cap till it fits the TB...

nick
 






The rubber 2" to 3" fits over both the intake and the MAF very tight in my test fitting. It seems perfect, the 2" is streched and mounted deep enough to lead the 3" right up to the hole. I'll finish it up tomorrow. Should only be 90 or so at 6am.
 






What about this...Would there be a problem of cutting the MAS wires and splicing longer wires in there to make the wires reach the right side of the engine compartment. Then, run a tube bent out like stock, although instead of bending to the left, bend it to the right side where there is plenty of space. And then You could run it right along the top of the radiator like stock (only to the right side) and then bent down to that empty space in the front right side of the compartment. You could hook the MAS up to the tube, and then hook your KKM facing more towards the ground than the engine, and you could get some cooler air right there?? What do you guys think about that?? You could maybe just turn the stock tube around and have it face the right side, I don't know if this would work, but I will go try it out and see if it will. I will post my results.

[Edited by rock883 on 08-05-2000 at 09:10 AM]
 






I think all the newwest Explorers are going to the plastic MAS. I know my 2001 has a plastic one and it does not get near as hot as the one on my 92 Explorer. I guess maybe it does help out!
 






Are the stock MAS plastic?? I went to have my alternator tested out a week ago, and the guy was asking me about my KKM and he also asked if I had got an aftermarket MAS, and I told him I never bought one, but the people my dad bought it from might have. I tried reversing the intake tube. There are 3 parts to the tube. The first part that makes close to a 90 degree bend is on the throttle body, and that goes to the plastic oval part that says caution fan, and then the other part that makes a few bends to go to the MAS. Anyways, the first part and the second part will make it over to the other side fine, the AC pulley may get in the way, but you could always make a little strap to keep it out of the way. But, you could, after those 2 pieces were put in place, get a rubber tube, and go from there and aim it down by the frame rail on the driver's side. From there, you could put somethin like mentioned above around the KKM and down to the front bumper or something of that sort to push air into the filter. Althoguh you could probably get a foamy pre-filter and put it inside the tube to keep the filter free from bugs or debris. And maybe to catch some water, it could work like this, you just need some wiring (to extend the wiring for the MAS and some rubber ype tubing.
 






I just changed over from a Contour to an Explorer and I had mine modified. Here are some things to think about. Ram Air only works at High Speeds, not much improvement unless you wanna race 90+mph constantly. I took off the bottom part of my airbox on my Contour (the air goes into the MAF at the top part of the box), not only did I get a nice throaty tone but also a bump in mpg and hp. I put screws in to hold the filter. It you want to get the best improvements, Cold Air is the way to go. But remember this means placing the filter cone near the bottom of the engine. This is where Ram Air would have problems too. As long as you are not driving through deep mud or water you will be fine. You will do damage more with Ram Air than CAI. Just reed the warnings on Ram Air for the Rangers. If you do drive through this stuff get a KKM and build a heat shield and rap the pipe with insulation tape that keeps under hood temps lower. Remember the cooler you run the better. Get tape and insulate the headers, that will cut down on heat.

Jim
96 Sport
Panasonic CD Player
MTX Blue Thunder Pro Amp
2 12 inch American Bass Flags
 






hey... I found intake kits on the web for the v6 explorer... on those import sites of all places...site...

http://www.wholesalehyperformance.com/intakes.html

Dead Link Removed

first time Ive seen/heard of them... I think ill try it out! better than all that PVC i just bought.. hehe


nick
 



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