Alignment

[adamsbro2]

Hi guys........I am getting ready to do a full width SAS on my 93 and i have been reading and reading getting all the info i can before i start. I have found tons of information and so far can only think of one thing i seem to be having trouble finding. When tearing down my d44 i removed the camber bushing from both ends. I have found TONS of information on the "C" bushings for caster but i cant seem to find any info on the threaded bushings for the camber. If anyone knows anything about these like generally what degree bushing is a good starting point, or a link to a thread or 2 that discuss this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[adamsbro2]

Found this......any thoughts or experience with these????

 

[adamsbro2]

Noone has any info on this?

 

[Maniak]

I never even knew Camber was adjustable on a solid axle. As I understand it, The Camber should be 0 if the axle is straight. Are you trying for a different Camber value or is something bent etc?

~Mark

 

[adamsbro2]

I never even knew Camber was adjustable on a solid axle. As I understand it, The Camber should be 0 if the axle is straight. Are you trying for a different Camber value or is something bent etc?

~Mark

Honestly I didn't either til I pulled these bushings out and started looking into it.

 

[BKennedy]

If you mean on the straight axle D44, there usually is no adjustment unless the axle is bent or something is not straight. Do the screw in bushings (sleeves) have a centered or off set hole? If it is centered, then everything is good. Replacement bushings usually come with new ball joints. You need a special tool to torque the bushings to 50 foot pounds, then the ball joint nut to 100 foot pounds. Here is a little helpful information to get you on your way.

Some Good Info on Dana 44 torque Specs
Ring-Gear bolts- 60 (lb-ft)
Bearing-cap bolts- 60 (lb-ft)
Diffrential cover bolts- 20 (lb-ft)
Front wheel-bearing lock (outer) nut- 160 (lb-ft)
Spindle to knuckle nuts- 65 (lb-ft)
Lower ball-joint nut (first pass)- 30 (lb-ft)
Lower ball-joint nut (second pass after upper
is torqued) -70 (lb-ft)
Upper ball-joint nut- 100 (lb-ft)
Adjusting ring-to-end forging (sleeve)
(upper ball joint) - 50 (lb-ft)
Steering arm to knuckle arm nuts- 90 (lb-ft)
U-bolts to axle- 150 (lb-ft)
Wheel lugnuts- steel wheel 88 (lb-ft), aluminum- 100(lb-ft)

 

[adamsbro2]

If you mean on the straight axle D44, there usually is no adjustment unless the axle is bent or something is not straight. Do the screw in bushings (sleeves) have a centered or off set hole? If it is centered, then everything is good. Replacement bushings usually come with new ball joints. You need a special tool to torque the bushings to 50 foot pounds, then the ball joint nut to 100 foot pounds. Here is a little helpful information to get you on your way.

Some Good Info on Dana 44 torque Specs
Ring-Gear bolts- 60 (lb-ft)
Bearing-cap bolts- 60 (lb-ft)
Diffrential cover bolts- 20 (lb-ft)
Front wheel-bearing lock (outer) nut- 160 (lb-ft)
Spindle to knuckle nuts- 65 (lb-ft)
Lower ball-joint nut (first pass)- 30 (lb-ft)
Lower ball-joint nut (second pass after upper
is torqued) -70 (lb-ft)
Upper ball-joint nut- 100 (lb-ft)
Adjusting ring-to-end forging (sleeve)
(upper ball joint) - 50 (lb-ft)
Steering arm to knuckle arm nuts- 90 (lb-ft)
U-bolts to axle- 150 (lb-ft)
Wheel lugnuts- steel wheel 88 (lb-ft), aluminum- 100(lb-ft)

The bushings I pulled out looked like they were centered and not offset but why do they make different offset bushings if they don't have to be messed with?

 

[BKennedy]

It is the only way to align camber on a solid axle is something is out of spec. I think there is only one type of offset bushing. My solid axle is less than 1* off on the driver side, and if I cared, the only way to correct it is a offset bushing. It doesn't effect tire wear, or the way it drives so I am not concerned.

 

[adamsbro2]

It is the only way to align camber on a solid axle is something is out of spec. I think there is only one type of offset bushing. My solid axle is less than 1* off on the driver side, and if I cared, the only way to correct it is a offset bushing. It doesn't effect tire wear, or the way it drives so I am not concerned.

Ok....that's good to know....thanks guys...yall are the reason this forum rocks