Sorry to post the same thing multiple times, but I wanted to post my solution in all 3 of the threads that helped me. Also - many thanks to all the people that provided the power lock info, wiring diagram, and repair tips. I would have never figured it out without your help.
My problem- drivers side power door lock switch would lock all doors, but not unlock any. Passenger side door lock switch and cargo area switch both worked fine, locking and unlocking all doors. I assumed it was a bad switch, and bought a replacement from an ebay junkyard for $15. I installed it, but it did not change anything.
I tested the switch wires inside the drivers door and found the following:
Pink with Yellow stripe (lock wire) had 12 volts.
Pink with Green stripe (unlock) had 0 volts. <<---problem
2 black wires were ground.
Red/Black wire was ground.
In the cargo area, I opened up the jack storage door under the door lock switch and had access to its wires. I think there were only 3 wires:
Pink with Yellow had 12 volts. (lock)
Pink with Green had 12 volts. (unlock)
Black was ground.
At the drivers door switch, where I had no power, I tried jumpering power from the Pink with Yellow over to the Pink with Green. That allowed the switch to get a "thunk" reaction from the door lock actuators, but they still didn't unlock.
I tested the 2 Pink with Green stripe wires in the jack well by piercing the insulation with a pin and testing for voltage with a multimeter. both had 12 volts.
I opened up the sill plate along the drivers side, and opened up the black plastic wire chase, and found two pink with greens in the trough. I test both at several places, including under the rear seat AFTER the splice point, and along the side at rear seat and drivers seat. both wires had 12 volt at all points except inside the drivers door. I did open up the splice point. Mine was just as it turned from the sill plate to go under the rear seat. It was fine, with power in both wires on both sides of the splice.
I read another thread that described how the wires feed into the door, through the black barrel looking connector. I removed the drivers side kick panel and found the Pink with Green and tested it for power by piercing it. It had power. There were actually two, one going into the door and another continuing towards the firewall. I disconnected the barrel, and then disconnected the rubber boot at both ends. Followed the Pink with Green into the boot - and BINGO! broken wire inside the boot.
i used a piece of wire about one foot long, and fed it through the boot. i spliced it in with butt connectors and each side of the boot, and pulled the excess wire into the kick panel. reassembled the boot and barrel connector and tested it and it worked!!!
in another thread someone described how to open the barrel connector. I'll repeat that here:
disconnect battery...
on the top of the barrel, find a plastic plug and remove it. under it is a 10mm bolt head.
unscrew the bolt and see the plug begin to drop down. unscrew it until the bottom section comes completely loose from the top section. cut the wire tie around the boot, and then pull the boot from the door jamb opening. you can slide the boot back and forth on the wires a little, enough to tug on the one you are interested in and see if it falls out broken like mine did.
thanks again to all previous posters. my drivers side unlock finally works again.
Soldered then shrink wrapped the wires and locks are fully operational now! On to cruise control and front window regulators now 
