Alot of little issues creating one big headache!

[jdmec]

I'm new to this whole process, so please bear with me. I bought this '05 Exp XLT about 8 mos ago. I bought it wrecked, and had it professionally rebuilt. It had a few bugs when I first started driving it, but that's not uncommon on builders since they often sit for quite awhile before they are auctioned. My issues started more recently, and I don't believe most of them have anything to do with the rebuild. I have resolved a few on my own, but I definitely need help with some of the others.
Here's where I'm stuck (so far):

The middle seatbelt in the second row seat has been stuck since I bought it. Any ideas how to get it to retract, or do I need to replace it? If I need to replace it, how do I go about that? It appears at first glance that I would have to replace that whole section of the seat...

We noticed the "door ajar" indicator lighting up after all the doors are closed about 2 weeks ago. I have tried the WD40 method without success. I noticed tonight that the driver's door puddle light isn't on when the door is closed, but when that door is opened to the detent it comes on, and then off again when all the way open. I assume this is a broken wire, but should I also assume this is related to the door ajar issue? Does anyone have a schematic for the the harness in that door?

It idles slightly rough. Occasionally, on a restart after, say, gassing up or a quick stop at a store, it sounds like it's gonna die and then smooths out. I've read a few threads that refer to similar issues that have been resolved by updating PCM software, and others say to try cleaning the MAF. Before I take it to the local stealership for the software update, I would like to clean the MAF. I've never done it before, so what does that entail?

The transmission has scared the crap out of me a few times. There's a delay, especially from R to D. I've read that the software update may address that also, but the thing that scared me is entirely different: while driving on the highway somewhere between 55-70 mph, there was an extremely loud and heavy CLUNK! The first time it happened, I was pulling a small enclosed trailer w/ very little weight in it and it was windy. It actually kicked off the cruise (which wouldn't come back on, but that's a whole other issue). The second time it just hammered and then kept hummin along. Does this sound like a related issue, and will the software update likely address it?

Any help with any of these problems will be greatly appreciated!

 

[xlt03]

First of all, welcome aboard and congratulations on your newly acquired vehicle.

On your seat belt, I assume that it's stuck with the belt out and not retracting. If so it sounds like the rachet is engaged and not letting it roll back up. Not sure where the retractor is on center seat but guessing it should be at the base of the seat back. First thing I would do is try to pull belt out slightly and see if that allows rachet to disengage. You may also need to shake the seat back a bit. If your center seat folds down I would unlatch it first before trying to shake it.

As to the door ajar light it may be the wiring in the driver door boot. Cue, RONDO this is where you come in...

Cleaning MAF, buy MAF cleaner from Autozone, DO NOT USE CARB or BRAKE CLEANER. BE very careful that you do not touch the wire of MAF. Search (below) for MAF cleaner, someone had posted on how to...

As to the trans, did you check trans fluid level, have you change filter and fluid? Search for trans oil and filter change. Most people seem to drain, replace with new filter and then refill. I would do this first since you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.

Post back with your results as this is how we build the wealth of information for everyone.

 

[roush9799]

Not only cleaning the MAF sensor, I would also clean the Throttle body. That will also cause idle trouble, along with the Idle Air Control (IAC) that is attached to the throttle body with a couple wires going to it. They make cleaner for the throttle body also at the parts store.

 

[Exproblems]

We noticed the "door ajar" indicator lighting up after all the doors are closed about 2 weeks ago. I have tried the WD40 method without success. I noticed tonight that the driver's door puddle light isn't on when the door is closed, but when that door is opened to the detent it comes on, and then off again when all the way open. I assume this is a broken wire, but should I also assume this is related to the door ajar issue? Does anyone have a schematic for the the harness in that door?

It idles slightly rough. Occasionally, on a restart after, say, gassing up or a quick stop at a store, it sounds like it's gonna die and then smooths out. I've read a few threads that refer to similar issues that have been resolved by updating PCM software, and others say to try cleaning the MAF. Before I take it to the local stealership for the software update, I would like to clean the MAF. I've never done it before, so what does that entail?

The transmission has scared the crap out of me a few times. :

The door ajar and puddle light issue's have plenty of write ups on them in here. Use the search box at the top of the forum and type a question into it regarding those problems and it will pull up those past posts. The past posts should have a door wiring diagram in them some where. Most likely, a broken wire problem.
On the MAF, follow the directions closely on the MAF cleaner can. Use only specific MAF cleaner spray as other have said. Don't drop the MAF sensor or try to clean it while it is still hot. Spray the cleaner into the area of the little wires you will see on the end of the MAF sensor and let it air dry for 10 minutes or so. To remove the MAF sensor, just unplug the wire harness and unscrew the 2 screws and it pulls out of the air intake. Some may recommend removing the negative battery cable prior to cleaning the MAF.
To clean the Throttle Body, use specific Throttle Body cleaner and follow the directions on the can. To clean the Throttle Body, just loosen and pull off the air intake tubing at the clamp at the Throttle Body itself and spray directly into the Throttle Body opening, flipping the butterfly open with your finger to get the spray down deep into the Throttle Body. The vehicle might be hard to start at first after the cleaning, but it should start up after a few tries. Once done with these cleanings, take the vehicle out for a short drive getting up to your normal driving speeds, so the computer can re-learn and adjust to the new readings it will sense from the cleaning of these components.
On the tranny, lots of issues with these transmissions. Changing the filter and the pan fluid won't hurt and do it every 30k in miles.

 

[BigRondo]

Welcome aboard!!


I had similar electrical issues with my '02 XLT. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the accessory delay wasn't working, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, the alarm would beep twice when I armed it. Recently all 4 windows stopped working. Most recently the driver door lock actuator stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 3 broken wires and repaired them. The thin black ground wire was broken and after repairing it all was back to normal. When the windows stopped working, I repaired the thick black ground wire and the windows now work like a champ. I had to repair the pink/black wire to fix the driver door lock actuator.

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Be sure to take your time when looking for broken/damaged wire(s). Check all the wires for breaks/damage. When you think you're done looking, look again, and again, and again. A bright flashlight can be very helpful.

Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is a great thread for checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249253

That is a great write up.

On a side note, before going through a complete replacement of the switch, you can spray WD40 into the door latch opening on each door, as these become stuck sometimes....and this can alleviate the issue.

This worked for me, after going for more than a year of the "door ajar" light coming on occasionally...mainly after a car wash, high humidity, or rain....making me unable to lock/arm the vehicle from the door keypad and keeping the dome lights on. Worth a try....it worked for me

Hope this helps out!! :biggthump