alternator problem?

[tbomb]

i think i need a new alternator, but id like someone to confirm, please.

i got a new battery back on october (just a little history.)

lately, i notice that my needle on the "battery gauge" (i think it measures amps or volts or something - i dunno, i failed my EE class), is a touch low. most people wouldnt notice it, but i do. and today after work, i start my truck, let it run with the headlights, foglights, and radio and heat on full blast for about 10 minutes before i leave, and i noticed the needle looked pretty low (like, at about 25% on the gauge. after i got my new battery it consistently sat at 50%.) though, when i stepped on the gas, the needle would go up and the dash lights would get brighter. this is not the first time this has happened in the last few weeks. once i get on the highway, the needle goes back to normal position and stays there (since the rpms are constantly higher than idle), even after i get off the highway and start sitting at traffic lights.

anyone have any thoughts on this? im not concerned with price, and i know its an easy part to swap out, but i wanna catch this before my truck doesnt start one day. is there a way to "test" to the alternator to see if its going bad? could it be anything else besides the alternator?

(i should also mention these 2 things. at work, my truck is my office. for the last 3-4 months, i sit in my truck with the radio on, and i start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes every hour to charge the battery, for 8 hours a day. im sure this isnt good. the second thing is that its HELLA-COLD here. today was about 25 degrees or so.)

thanks, and sorry this is so long.

 

[JDraper]

Sounds like your alternator is working ok, but the battery and possibly the alternator are undersized for what you are using them for. You may want to look into a high output alternator and a battery with a larger capacity if you are constantly using the vehicle with the engine off.

You can take the truck to Autozone, Battery Warehouse or Advance Auto stores and they will check your charging system out for free.

If you have a voltmeter, most charging systems read between 13.6VDC and 14.4 VDC when they are working correctly.

 

[Bill Kemp]

I just had to replace the alt. a couple of months ago.
There were two for the X. I think they were 80 or 110 amp. I got the larger one. Only about 25 bucks more.
I had noticed the guage dropping at idle and next thing I noticed, when trying to check the volts, the wire on the rear was almost burned through.
Worst part of changing is the belt tensioner.
Good luck...

 

[tbomb]

thanks guys.

well, i dont sit with the radio on anymore during the day; i use a headset to save the truck.

jeff, the battery is a brand new (3-4 months old) die hard for suvs, so i would think that its pretty good (especially since i dont use the radio with the engine off anymore.)

my truck goes in for state inspection in 3 weeks, so ill have test everything then. if i need a new alternator, ill definitely go with the bigger one, like bill mentioned.

and bill, i already got a hold of one of my friends to help with the belt tensioner. i actually just put a new belt on in september or october, and what a PITA

also, bill, did the new alternator fix your problem?

thanks again.

 

[aldive]

Have you checked the voltage?

 

[tbomb]

Originally posted by aldive
Have you checked the voltage?

nah, i dont have a voltmeter. my trucks going in for state inspection and emissions in 2-3 weeks, so ill have them run all the tests then, and whatever it needs ill do myself.

 

[fordkrazy]

its the voltage regulator....its on the back of the alternator...im not sure but i think the only differance between the higher amp alternators is the voltage regulator lets more amps by....i dont know if you can buy just the regulator but i would start there

 

[tbomb]

Originally posted by fordkrazy
its the voltage regulator....its on the back of the alternator...im not sure but i think the only differance between the higher amp alternators is the voltage regulator lets more amps by....i dont know if you can buy just the regulator but i would start there

huh? can you explain in more detail please? exactly what do you mean by "voltage regulator"? is that my problem?...is that what youre saying? and why all of the sudden would it start to act up?

i checked with napa over the weekend. for the SOHC, theres only one alternator you can get - the 130 amp one and its $166 including the core "refund."

thanks.

 

[fordkrazy]

youll prolly just have to get that alternator but ask if you can just buy the regulator...it will save you about 30-40 bucks if you want....but i would just get the whole thing....the voltage regulator is the plastic lookin thing on the back of the alternator that all the wires plugg into....its a resistor of sorts that only lets a certian ammount of energy through the wires....the more strain that is put on the electrical system the faster the voltage regulator will wear out because your electronics are playing "tug-of-war" with the regulator....the electronics want more juice but the regulator wont give it to them.

 

[tbomb]

Originally posted by fordkrazy
youll prolly just have to get that alternator but ask if you can just buy the regulator...it will save you about 30-40 bucks if you want....but i would just get the whole thing....the voltage regulator is the plastic lookin thing on the back of the alternator that all the wires plugg into....its a resistor of sorts that only lets a certian ammount of energy through the wires....the more strain that is put on the electrical system the faster the voltage regulator will wear out because your electronics are playing "tug-of-war" with the regulator....the electronics want more juice but the regulator wont give it to them.

ahh, ok. thanks yeah, just to save $30 or $40 - id just as soon get a whole new alternator if im gonna spend that much anyway.

one more thing: how do you know that this is what the problem is? i mean, could it be anything else?

(sorry to be a PITA, but i still got a couple weeks to think about this before the ford mechanic that does my state inspection tries to blow smoke up my ass - its only going to ford cuz if it needs something major, im still under extended warranty.)

 

[fordkrazy]

well im basing my "advise" (and thats what it is....advise) that its the voltage regulator by your discription of your problem (dimming lights at idol and bright lights at higher RPM's) that tells me that you have inconsistant voltage which would be caused by a bad voltage regulator....

now due to this being the internet and i cant hook up a voltage/amp meter to your explorer from here in oklahoma, i cant be for sure but based on what your saying thats what i would go for.

dont worry about being a PITA.....i can be one too

 

[ALYZ1FLR]

Voltage regulator>

The voltage regulater kit whith brushes at napa is 23.00With tax and takes about 5 min. to change. If you dont know about something its not a crime to say so!

 

[fordkrazy]

last time i checked the voltage reg. for my 94 was like 70 bucks at o'reily's....i think your thinkin of the rebuild kit for the older style alternators....93+ have the japanese style alternator that to my knowledge doesnt have a rebuild kit for it.

 

[ALYZ1FLR]

Kit or not kit models are all rebuildable Most of the time it is only brushes or a hung spring. The old kits you had to pull the old brushes out and replace them yourself. The new kits replace the voltage regulator as an assy. Two torx bits and swap units thin pull spring retainer clips out. And plug alternator back in. Some Parts vendors did stop carrying the kits because no one was using them. But..... They are still out there.

 

[fordkrazy]

cool...ill have to remember that....that sure would beat spending 120 on a new alt. are there web sites that carry those? cause no one here in OK have them.