Alternator???

[bluekitten]

I have a 97 XLT V8, and yesterday when I started it up to drive home from work, I noticed that the battery gauge was on Low. For the most part it felt like it was running okay, but I did feel a little "loss of power" when accelerating on the freeway.

This morning the gauge was still on Low, and after driving (city streets) for about 15-20 minutes, it started feeling weak. The power locks started going nuts (not actually locking and unlocking, but it sounded like it was trying), *something* was beeping at me, and the radio and heater shut off. When I started to go from a stop, it took a few seconds of pressing on the accelerator before I started moving forward again.

The ABS light went on (which it does all of the time anyway--warning sign?) and my gas gauge went UP. Then my airbag and check gauge lights went on. The last thing to go out gauge-wise was the speedo.

Finally, accelerating from another stop light, I was flooring the X and it was barely moving. I was able to pull into a parking lot and right as I did, my ABS and power steering went out, and as I rolled to a stop the car died.

I tried to start it again and got a few clunks from the engine, but the starter wasn't even trying to turn over. On my second attempt, it didn't even click.

After sitting for about 15 minutes, I was able to get it started again, but after driving for just a couple of minutes I went through all of the above problems again (up to the not being able to accelerate part). I made it to work, but after I shut off the ignition, it wouldn't start again (big surprise, I know).

Does this sound like it's the alternator? Something more? My husband is going to take it to Checker or the like to get the alternator tested, but any other input/like experience is appreciated!

-Sarah

 

[Blee1099]

Sounds like the alternator..

 

[bluekitten]

We took it to Napa last night and it was coming back with a bad battery. After we replaced the bat, the alternator wasn't showing any codes--but the volt gauge is still on low. I haven't had any of the problems I had yesterday with the car dying, but I'm still concerned about the volt gauge.

Since replacing/disconnecting the bat messes up the readiness codes, could that affect having the alternator tested? Will I need to reset the readiness codes before getting the alt tested again?

 

[Blee1099]

I don't believe most parts store employees know how to test an alternator correctly. Often times they don't put a full load on it. I would replace the alternator regardless. What you can do is probe the alternator power cable with a multimeter while the truck is running and see how many volts it puts out. It should be around 14 volts with the motor on.

 

[Green98XLT]

The alternator will not throw a code. It must be tested manually with DVOM and checked with an AMP clamp. You should see somewhere around 13.2-14.7 volts with the engine running and no loads. Turn on the blower motor and headlights and it should dip no less than 13.0v. BTW this is checked at the battery.

Now shut your Ex off and check the surface charge of the battery, it should be above 12.6 at all times. Wait an hour and check it again.

I also see where you mentioned that you lost power steering, that tells me you might have either lost the serpentine belt or its worn out and slipping.

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

yeah mine did the same thing without the locks going crazy and it was analternator

 

[SuRrEaLNJ]

Agreed that it sounds like the alternator. I fried mine a few weeks ago, did prety much the same thing that you described.

 

[explorerpimp]

try this

definately sounds like alternator. :exp: take a multimeter and turn it to dc voltage . ground the black probe and put the red probe on the main feed to the alternator. if the reading is about 14v then the alt is ok. if not replace it. :exp: