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Annoyed with a A4LD

iteotwawki

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 24, 2010
Messages
130
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City, State
Beaumont, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 XLT 4X4
2 months ago I picked up a clean 92' 4x4 with 113K on the odometer. The X had an automatic that had just been rebuilt, with 8K in the rebuild. Car was owned buy a little old lady that only drove it to the market so I figured all was good. This morning (8K later) trans does not want to shift out of 1st and 4th ---> OD is not locking up. :(

I took the car down to my buddy's shop and he flused the trans while I watched. No real debris in the pan but the fluid had an old smell about it. After the flush, the first gear issue didn't show up but the 4th ---> OD is still not locking up. :mad:

Any ideas?
 



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Update: After sitting for a couple of hours, the trans does not want to shift out of first. took about a 1/2 mile for it to finally shift and now it seems to shift fine. Reverse & 1st --> 4th shifts ok after it warms up. 4th --> OD is still not locking up.

The cruise control works, but the trans still behaves as reported in OD.
 






The OD issue could easily be a solenoid problem. There are only two solenoids in the A4LD, one to shift to OD and one to lock the converter. Chances are the one to lock the converter either bit the dust, or it could be something as simple as the wire got knocked loose when it got flushed.

Read some of the stickies in the transmission forum, good stuff. Glacier's A4LD rebuild diary will tell you probably more than you ever wanted to know about the A4LD and it's weaknesses (and strengths, it does have a few). I believe he also did a valve body rebuild diary which is what would probably be the best idea for you.

One thing worth mentioning is to do some of the basic stuff first. Make sure all the bands are tight, and it may be worth it to pull the pan and check the filter. Unless of course that was done after it got flushed.

Believe it or not, the A4LD can last very long, but it does need to be taken care of.
 






The OD issue could easily be a solenoid problem. There are only two solenoids in the A4LD, one to shift to OD and one to lock the converter. Chances are the one to lock the converter either bit the dust, or it could be something as simple as the wire got knocked loose when it got flushed.

Read some of the stickies in the transmission forum, good stuff. Glacier's A4LD rebuild diary will tell you probably more than you ever wanted to know about the A4LD and it's weaknesses (and strengths, it does have a few). I believe he also did a valve body rebuild diary which is what would probably be the best idea for you.

One thing worth mentioning is to do some of the basic stuff first. Make sure all the bands are tight, and it may be worth it to pull the pan and check the filter. Unless of course that was done after it got flushed.

Believe it or not, the A4LD can last very long, but it does need to be taken care of.

Thanks for the info. The sad part about it is that the trans was just rebuilt at 113k. I had the trans flushed because the shifting issue started today including the OD issue. I'll look over the sticky's but am not excited about tearing into the trans, but looks like I have no choice. :frustrate
 






did the fluid look dark when it was changed (full of clutch dust?) if so, it's possible that the overdrive lock-up's clutch material came apart, that would explain why the o/d lock up isn't working.. it could also explain why it's getting stuck in first, if a piece of the clutch material got jammed in the valve body somewhere clogging something, restricting flow or jamming something.

it's possible the trans rebuilder re-used the old torque converter... or that the new one was a dud.

does it lock-in when you're in third (drive)?

i'm just talking out of my ass.. but something to think about.
 






did the fluid look dark when it was changed (full of clutch dust?) if so, it's possible that the overdrive lock-up's clutch material came apart, that would explain why the o/d lock up isn't working.. it could also explain why it's getting stuck in first, if a piece of the clutch material got jammed in the valve body somewhere clogging something, restricting flow or jamming something.

it's possible the trans rebuilder re-used the old torque converter... or that the new one was a dud.

does it lock-in when you're in third (drive)?

i'm just talking out of my ass.. but something to think about.

The fluid did look dark and looking in the bottom of the pan, I did notice more debris than I would have liked seeing especially since it was just rebuilt.

Update; After the truck sits awhile, when I start driving it, it takes a long time for it to shift out of first, but once it does all appears to be normal except the OD issue. 1st --> 4th all work. 4th to OD does not lock up.

FYI, I talked with Doug Hamby of Dougs Transmissions in Phoenix this morning and based on what I described to him, he told me that more than likely, the governor is sticking (1st gear issue) and there is debris in the valve bodies and/or that they are worn.

He also mentioned that the solenoid that controls the OD has probably gone bad.

I was hoping that this was going to be something simple e.g. vacuum modulator, but it sound's like I got an overhall heading my way. Sucks! Unfortunately, I do not have access to a garage and I live at a location where they do not allow people to work on their cars. So now I am just going to drive it till I can scrape up the cash to get it rebuilt.

Thanks for the all the input.
 






1st --> 4th all work. 4th to OD does not lock up.
TCC lockup (I'm not used to referring to it as OD) is electronically controlled. Before I got to excited about mechanical failures inside the transmission, I'd check the electrical circuit. It's a basic DC circuit with the PCM acting as a ground side switch. Get a wiring diagram (I use the one in Chiltons) and a voltmeter, backprobe the TCC lockup circuit between the PCM and the transmission, enter the output state test (see my notes on pulling EEC-IV codes thread), and see if the PCM can command lokcup. Then take it for a test drive and see if the PCM chooses to command lockup. If the PCM is not choosing to command lockup, then you can look at what's wrong on the engine management side of things. If the PCM commands lockup but the transmission doesn't respond, then you can worry about what's broken inside the transmission.
 






TCC lockup (I'm not used to referring to it as OD) is electronically controlled. Before I got to excited about mechanical failures inside the transmission, I'd check the electrical circuit. It's a basic DC circuit with the PCM acting as a ground side switch. Get a wiring diagram (I use the one in Chiltons) and a voltmeter, backprobe the TCC lockup circuit between the PCM and the transmission, enter the output state test (see my notes on pulling EEC-IV codes thread), and see if the PCM can command lokcup. Then take it for a test drive and see if the PCM chooses to command lockup. If the PCM is not choosing to command lockup, then you can look at what's wrong on the engine management side of things. If the PCM commands lockup but the transmission doesn't respond, then you can worry about what's broken inside the transmission.


I'm having issues with TCC lockup as well. Does anybody know of a schematic (or wiring diagram) i could find for this online? or do i have to buy a book? i'm 99% sure it's an electrical problem (since i put in a new trans and that didn't fix the issue, but that's not why i replaced the trans, it snapped the 2'nd gear band or something too)
 












I'm having issues with TCC lockup as well. Does anybody know of a schematic (or wiring diagram) i could find for this online? or do i have to buy a book? i'm 99% sure it's an electrical problem (since i put in a new trans and that didn't fix the issue, but that's not why i replaced the trans, it snapped the 2'nd gear band or something too)

I'm pretty sure autozone still has a free version of Chiltons DIY manuals on their website (I believe you have to register with the site to access. look for "vehicle repair guides"). I've found the wiring diagram in Chiltons to be adequate for the TCC solenoid circuit.
 






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