Any decent A/C stop-leak products on the market??

[Cheddar_Dan]

Most of my A/C system (R134 type) has been replaced, but there is a slow leak. Is there a decent A/C stop-leak products on the market you would recommend?

THANKS!

 

[Rick]

I've been tempted to try stop leak but I've been afraid it may clog the system and cost me more in the long run. Have you tried to trace the leak? You can get a can of R134a with UV dye in it and use a blacklight to check for leaks. I believe they have kits at the auto parts stores with the black light included.

 

[Cheddar_Dan]

...and cost me more in the long run

I've been told where the leaks are, thanks. I spent $6-700 having the A/C repaired last summer; new hoses and gizmos... this summer the mechanic wants over $900 to replace compressor and one other gizmo... After last year, I'm actually surprised anything is left to swap-out in the system other than the compressor. ...figured I would try stop leak as a band-aid to get me (hopefully) through this summer.
Best!

 

[LG57]

I used A/C Pro Stop Leak Kit from O'Reilly. Worked like a charm. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ford/explorer?q=a/c+leak+detectors+&pos=11#rr

 

[Cheddar_Dan]

Thanks All!
I added most of a can of sealer then a can of R134. The compressor went from on/off every 3 seconds to full time on. A few minutes later the compressor started making noise like a mashed cat. Wondering now if adding compressor oil *might* help??? Does anyone know if the 94 takes PAG 46 or not? ...trying to find it in a pressurized can now, but mostly finding PAG 46 in bottle.

BTW I must be doing something wrong when screwing on cans?? I cannot screw cans onto my gauge/hose set fast enough after the puncture pin makes contact. Lots of product loss! Hmm.?? Maybe I should connect low pressure connector last??

Thoughts!

BIG THANKS!
.d

 

[kmack]

The puncture pin shouldn't make contact at all with the can (even after fully screwed onto the line) until you screw it further in to allow it to make contact/puncture. I would say you're doing something wrong. All lines should be connected to the gauges and system with the valves closed. Then connect your freon can to the fill line. Then turn the handle to push the puncture pin into the can. Only then, should you open your gauge low pressure valve and fill the system. There should be absolutely no freon lossed to open air.

Your AC guy should have added oil to the system when he worked on it. Especially for $700. If he didn't, and still wants another $900 to fix what he should have already fixed, I'd find another AC guy (at a minimum) or better yet, do the work yourself. Labor is cheaper that way and it's really not hard to work on these things.

And most of the time, "Stop Leak" stuff is only a cheap band-aid fix that never really fixes the underlying problem/issues. Some people get lucky with it, but most of the time it starts leakying again or messes something up really bad. (Same way with radiators...)

 

[LG57]

Most freon cans I've encountered lately don't have the puncture seal any more. They have a valve that reseals when you retract the pin. Your tool that fits on top of the can is changed also to only have a flat ended pin. if you use your old piercing type tool, you won't be able to seal the top of the can with the resulting leak you described.

 

[Travisfab]

Where is the leak? I just had an AC shop diagnose mine, replace a shrader, a line, and vac/oil/fill the system for $250.

 

[BKennedy]

That stop leak stuff will also clog up a shrader valve and cause it to get stuck open, leaking out all of the coolant. New compressors are not that expensive. You can find them on Amazon and eBay, and Rock Auto. Most are under $200. Its a easy install to swap them out, then take it to a AC shop to have it filled. Your compressor sounds like its on its last legs and should have been replaced when all the other work was done.