Anybody rebuild an A4LD

[ALYZ1FLR]

I used an after market but the diff. is stall speed yours should be between2720 and 3165

 

[TDG]

More pictures of todays work Enjoy the laughs on my homemade "tools"

 

[ALYZ1FLR]

TDG your tool looks grt. you should have seen my modified c-jaw vice grips it was mickey mouse but it worked.

 

[Opera House]

All those pictures make it look scarier than it is

Wasn't able to find out much about the torque converter. No stall speeds in the catalog. Transtar Industries doesn't carry the "right" TC for the Explorer but has one they substitute. At $105, I am still thrilled to have the option for a light duty unit. This vehicle is just going to drive to work and back. I notice I never tach over 3K on my Explorer so I don't see the harm.

I replaced all my steel plates to get ones that were thinner. Old ones were highly polished. Manual talks about glazed drums causing slipping but never mentions plate condition. Is this an issue. My overdrive adaptor or star washer was bent back and I noticed one of the previous pictures looked like that was happening. New one is perfectly flat. This looks like a "must replace" item at rebuild time. Anyone else found one bent but was still working?

 

[SteveVB]

Rev low servo part #

I need to replace the low/rev servo ring and gasket- anyone have the part numbers by chance?

I called my local Ford parts and he said they had two sizes? Is this correct? , I cant find anything that says anything about the low/rev servo size change. I just want the better sealing ring since I have no compression braking in 1.

Also I found some upgrade boost pressure valves and sleeves FYI.
from Sonnax aluminum valve:
http://www.powerglide.com/parts/parts/56947-02K.htm

from superior Steel valve - also available in their shift kit

Dead Link Removed

 

[Opera House]

A4LD LOW/REVERSE SERVO IMPROVEMENT

Many A4LD, 4R44E, and 4R55E transmissions have a problem with no or delayed reverse engagement, reverse shudder/chatter, and/or no engine braking in manual low (1). Some symptoms are not very obvious but can lead to the early failure of the reverse band. Some have reported that this gets rid of the "clunk" when you go into reverse. This is the result of the O-ring on the Low-Reverse Servo developing a heat set and failing to make a complete seal. The low/reverse servo has the largest surface area in the transmission, except for the Torque converter clutch, is a double wrap design and located at he output end of the transmission . These all imply that it sees a lot of torque and could be one of the first components to fail from age. Every A4LD should probably have these O-rings replaced. My 92 transmission was rebuilt in 96 and it did not get this improved seal at that time. There is an updated "double lip" style seal made out of a polyacyrlic rubber instead of the nitrile rubber compound O-ring.. This solution was first borrowed from the C6 transmission and is now included as part of the O-ring kit from the better suppliers.

WARNING: This is a blind procedure and there is no practical way of knowing if the reverse band is seated properly. Unlike single bands, the reverse/low band is a double wrap band and this limits major movement. Frictional and. viscous forces will tend to keep the band where it is. The servo rod is rounded at the end and fits into a well on the band as well as the two housing pins. This serves to self align the band. Obviously for manufacturing purposes, when the transmission is stood vertically on the output end, movement of the band to the rear is restricted and is in position to accept the servo rod. Forward movement of the band, however, is not restricted. Rotation of the output shaft, large vibrations and the transmission pointing down toward the front could cause the band to move forward. The ATSG A4LD manual lists the Low/Reverse Servo as a separate repair procedure on page 47 that can be performed without removal of the transmission. This is not just something I made up. Like any transmission procedure, flushing, pump out, or new fluid has the potential to cause new problems. If you are not currently experiencing delayed reverse or loss of low braking, the risk/benefit of this procedure may not be appropriate. Every effort was made to insure this information is accurate with a transmission in a vehicle and by viewing operation of a disassembled transmission on a stand. This should not be considered professional advice and unknown manufacturing changes could cause an unforseen problem.

I used the overhaul kit from bulkparts.com for the 85-95 A4LD #23031 which is approximately $27. This is the Toledo Trans-Kit from SPX/FILTRAN. The two O-rings that you will need are packaged separately in the kit and will be easy to find. Replacement is no more difficult than changing the filter.

This technical bulletin can be viewed on www.atcdg.com by clicking on tech and looking for A4LD.

Another improvement is the American made glass fiber MicroFelt filter from SPX/FILTRAN.. This is also the same filter that is used in the 5R55E (#23921 for 4WD). If you have shopped for filters previously, you will remember that the 2WD versions got the filter element and the 4WD versions got just a metal screen. Evidently 4WD vehicles needed a higher flow for better cooling/shifting. The new filter is physically much larger than the old filter. There is even more filter area because the filter is folded over and welded inside to create twice the surface area. Flow restriction is no longer a problem with this filter. Be sure you order the correct long or short tube version depending on your pan design. This filter is only about $10 from www.bulkpart.com and comes with a new bolt and spacer. THE FILTER MUST BE SEATED PROPERLY OR THE TRANSMISSION WILL SUCK IN AIR. The bolt sits in a well and it is not obvious if the bolt bottoms out. If the filter is ordered separately, it does not come with replacement O-rings or a pan gasket. These seals are included in the overhaul kit. SPX/FILTRAN .technical details can be viewed on www.bryco.com. SPX , an OEM supplier, has the patent on this filter design #D422600 and many others.

Working on a transmission only seems a like a formidable task. Replacement of these items is easy for anyone to do without removal of the transmission. I have removed and installed the reverse servo several times and there is nothing tricky about it. The center shaft eases the alignment of the piston. The spring only requires moderate effort to compress. The only item to pay attention to is the cover which has a tilted mounting surface and mounts only in one direction. Mark the rear section of the cover before removal. Before installation, the walls on the valve body should be lightly cleaned with a crocus cloth. Remove any sediment from the housing, piston and cover with brake cleaner prior to installation of the new O-rings. Lubricate parts with transmission fluid before installation.

While the pan and filter are off, the torque on the valve body bolts should be checked. When I changed the filter on my 97 5R55E, I found all the valve body bolts were all loose. This could be the problem with many transmissions as they age. Be sure to use the correct torque. Too much is as bad as too little and will cause the plate to warp. Seven foot-pounds is not much of a twist. Transtec has a optional double thick valve body gasket kit to correct more difficult sealing problems.

The steps are as follows:
1. Place vehicle in PARK and leave it in that position for the entire procedure.
2. Make sure that after the vehicle has been jacked up that the front of the vehicle is higher than the rear.
3. Remove pan
4. Remove transmission filter
5. Mark the back edge of the reverse servo cover. Remove four retaining screws on the servo cover. Hold the cover as the screws are removed. The spring between the piston and the valve body will push the piston and cover down. Note the cover surface is slanted and note the position.
6. Inspect for excessive wear. Lightly clean surfaces with a crocus cloth and install the two new O-rings. Lubricate piston with transmission fluid.
7. Replace ( new gasket if available), cover, piston and spring. Torque bolts to specification.
8. Replace filter, old O-rings may need to be transferred from old filter
9. Replace pan gasket and install pan.
10. Fill with 3 quarts of fluid. Start engine and cycle from forward to reverse. Recheck fluid levels when warm.

You might be able to get these O-rings individually at a large distributor like transtarindustries.com if you go to their online catalog. Bulkparts is now a combined website bulkpart.com though the other still works.


TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS:
Oil Pan to Case 8-10 Ft-Lbs
Reverse Servo to Case 80-115 Inch-Lbs, 6.7-9.6 Ft-Lbs
Main Control (valve body) to Case 71-97 Inch-Lbs, 5.9 -8.0 Ft-Lbs

REFERENCES:
SPX/FILTRAN, Technical Bulletin No. 124,
C3, A4LD, 4R44E, 4R55E Delayed Reverse Engagement

ATSG, Ford A4LD Techtran Manual Pages 22, 23, 24, 31, 36, 47, 62, 111

www.atcdg.com (View tech bulletins, A4LD
www.bulkpart.com

 

[Opera House]

Intermediate Assembly - Installing it back in te transmission

They probably have a tool for this. On page 71 (step 25) of the ATSG manual they tell you to install the forward clutch as an assembly. The picture indicates that you slide it in with the transmission on its side and the procedure is a one liner. This is a fairly long heavy assembly and it easily falls apart. The assembly has a number of bearings that quickly slide out of position. Even tried using the input shaft to help slide it in. Tip the transmission too far and the planetary gears fall out. This assembly is easy to put together outside of the transmission. The clutch plates have splines and you rotate the mating piece like a safe cracker and the plates drop in place one by one. You can even install as pieces in the transmission and everything goes great till you try to put in the forward clutch.

The solution was to drop the completed assembly in the transmission when it was in the vertical position with the output shaft down. I had some one inch wide duct tape that I folded back on itself for 8 inches. The next 1 ½ inches was stuck to the input shell (part #56). Then another section was taped against itself to form a handle that looped around and stuck to the other side of the shell in the same fashion. If you clean the input shell before doing this with brake cleaner, the adhesion is quite strong for such a little area. This allowed me to drop the entire assembly in and the weight of the pieces held everything together. You can either rotate the assembly or the output shaft till the planetary gears mate. The assembly drops down part way then and rides on the spline shaft. Lift slightly on the assembly and rotate the output shaft back and forth till the assembly drops down further. The drag from the clutches tends to keep the splines from aligning, but it usually doesn't take more than 30 seconds of turning before it drops in. Once in place, I just pressed down on the assembly while pulling the tape end tabs up. The tape then easily pulled off. I think I saw in a catalogue a frame that grabbed the bottom lip of the drum and allowed you to drop it in this way. Still, you can't beat the handyman's secret helper, duct tape. Frankly, I don't see any way that it is possible to install it the way the manual says without some kind of "tool."

The only way to know if everything went back together right is to measure the clearance between the forward drum and the center support. The clearance should be between 0.012 and 0.022 inches. The manual says to take a spare center support and drill a 1/8 inch hole in it where the thrust washer sits. I don't know about you, but I looked all around my transmission and it didn't seem to have come with a spare. Just like the last used car I bought, no spare! I saw no reason not to drill a hole in the one I was using. Just drill it 180 degrees from the other three feed holes. The nice thing about having a spare center support is you don't have to put the rubber rings in it when you do this measurement. If the pin for the intermediate servo is removed, you are able rotate the center support around and get several readings. It probably isn't necessary to rotate to get multiple readings if you are anywhere close and there are no obvious signs of wear on the brass thrust washers. This check is mostly to see if anything had slipped when installing the intermediate assembly. Mine measured 0.032, a 0.010 out of spec but acceptable to me. This wear could be attributed to the wear on the forward shell/bearing and had existed for 70K miles.

Installing the center support can seem tricky if you try to install it for practice prior to installing the intermediate assembly. While clearance isn't really tight, the outside mounting ring has a grooved surface that hangs up easily unless it is dropped in perfectly vertical. Any burrs can easily hang it up. When the intermediate assembly is installed, it acts as a guide for the center support and the installation of the center support is much easier. The center support's rubber rings must be installed before the final installation the drum assembly. Install the rings, lubricate with petroleum jelly, and place in the overdrive brake drum, since this won't be used till later, (see page 66) before the support is installed in the transmission. Allowing it to sit in the drum for an hour will allow the rubber to relax. This will make it easier to install when the forward drum is in the transmission. Be sure to read the applicable sections of the manual for other important details.

 

[Opera House]

Removing the Transmission

To remove the A4LD transmission from my 92 Explorer, I used 10 ton jack stands in the front and drive up ramps in the back. You want to use really big jack stands because you want to get the car as high as possible and you want it to be stable. These jack stands or bigger will have a wide enough base. I still recommend you build something to put under the tires to keep it from rolling and coming down on you. Basically, I jacked up one wheel at a time with a floor jack. Scariest part was removing the four exhaust bolts from the "Y" to the manifold headers. It took six extensions in series to reach the bolts. Use lots of penetrant and wait a day. The bolts will take a lot of force and a pipe extension for the handle to develop it. One of the extensions sheared in the process, though it was only a cheap 3/8 extension. Broke a socket removing the transmission cross member and sheared another extension off. Again, these were cheap tools and it was my only 18mm deep socket, many kits don't even contain this size. I recommend that you go out and buy a set of deep impact sockets if you don't have them. 12 point sockets will only strip the bolt heads. Also see "Speed Governor and Transfer Case Removal."

The most time consuming thing was the removal of the torque converter bolts. You do this by removing the starter and removing the nuts from the engine side. This is an operation that you do mostly by feel. At first I couldn't understand why the nuts seemed to strip instantly. The nuts are placed as close as you can get to the outside ring and my socket walls were just too fat. This kept the socket from fully seating. Took forever for me to find a thin wall socket to take the 4 bolts out of the torque converter. Thought I was going to have to grind down a socket. And then there was that rotate the engine, get back under the car, oops too far, back again and again. I was also replacing the water pump and front seal at this time. With the radiator and fan removed, it was easier to rotate the engine with a wrench on the front pulley bolt. If you mark the splines on the crank sensor, it is easier to count the splines to the next bolt position. When you have removed the TC nuts, it should clang when you rotate the engine a little. Then you know the TC is free enough to come out with the transmission when it is dropped.

My transmission removal method was probably a little different than standard. I removed the pan, valve body, and all other linkage so I would have a flat surface to mount the jack to. I had a plate that fit into a floor jack and mounted to four pan bolt holes. A floor jack is very awkward to use if this is a one man job. Later I bought a real scissors transmission jack from Harbor Freight ($49 on sale) to put it back in with. I modified this with a 5 ½ inch hole in the plate to clear the sump, some rubber strips and a brace bar because I had removed so much metal. Just be aware that a transmission will drain for weeks so be sure you have something to catch the fluid if this is a leisurely project. Instead of a transmission stand, I used an engine stand. A three point mounting into the pan bolt holes is more than sufficient. It is an absolute must to be able to rotate the transmission for removal and assembly if you go further than the OD section.

Now to take the transmission apart. Carefully pull out the torque converter. Set it aside so it doesn't leak, then pull out the input shaft. The bellhousing attaches with 8 bolts. These are the only ones you will see. After those are removed the, the bellhousing/pump assembly comes out with a couple taps of a rubber mallet from the back side. If you keep the pump intact, there is no need to do the realignment needing special tools. This transmission was "rebuilt" in 96 (weld broke on planetary gear in overdrive) and I was interested if the bands were adjusted correctly. This year transmission could have had the single or double wrap overdrive band (2 or 3 ½ turns). For reference, I was going to count how many turns. Problem is there is an O-ring under the backoff nut and it welds itself to the adjusting screw over time. Just another reason why not to adjust the bands when it is in the car.

The first thing to pull out of the transmission is a brass thrust washer. Bag and identify it ans there is another identical one that may have a different thickness. Next is the the overdrive clutch which is a complete assembly that attaches to the overdrive adaptor or "star washer". This washer should be perfectly flat with no wear. The spline shaft will likely have worn a little into it or it may be bowed slightly. You would be wise to replace this part since it is less than $8. The clutch is followed by the OD planetary gear and another thrust washer. These are probably the two assemblies that fail most often in an A4LD. Nice that they are the first ones that come out. The overdrive clutch has band that goes around it and also an internal clutch. My problem was the clutch assembly teeth on the drum had folded over because of a bent star washer or OD clutch adaptor. The outside has 8 square teeth that mount to the clutch and it had been riding over these teeth for 70K. Star washer had blued and bent backward. The clutch teeth knurled over and I had to use a dremel tool to grind them back so I could remove the internal clutch piston parts. Bet you always heard that you need special tools to work on a transmission. I made a clutch spring compressor out of an almost used up mylar tape spool, piece of a an aluminum picture frame, long bolt and some washers.

The center support holds in the rest of the components. The valve body must be removed to get at the single bolt that holds the center support. Another section will cover this. When the OD band is removed, it should be marked as to the piston side and restrained in a circle to prevent friction material from being damaged. I bought new clutches and steel plates when I ordered the manual and gasket/seal kit. Every clutch and band I have looked at so far is almost like new. You could just stop here and replace the OD clutch, low/reverse O-rings and probably go for years. It is likely that many low cost shops that rebuild transmissions only replace the really damaged mechanical parts. I think my star washer was marginal and they didn't want to spend the $8 for a new one. That's why it lasted only 14 months. If you shop for price, that's what you'll get. I'll never pay to have a transmission rebuilt again. They are just so easy to work on and you just don't know what kind of job someone else will do. I think I'd pay someone to take it out though. Now if I can just find all those pieces that sprung out of the valve body when I took off the separator plate!

 

[ALYZ1FLR]

Its about time !!

My hats off to Opera House. I have been doing my own repairs on a4lds, With great results. But I have never had the patiants to put it in writing for everyone else. Its Not rocket science, It is time consuming. If you order the ATSG manual for the a4ld be sure to get both manuals. Actually There are three but the first should be out of print by know. #1 ford a4ld techtran manual,revised edition. This one takes you thru the diagnostics and rebuild. #2 Is the ford a4ld update hand book. It takes you thru all the first thru 3rd updates and tells you wich ones you can use. Alot of the 2nd and 3rd changes can be used on your first and second mod transmisions. A high five for Opera House.

 

[Rick]

Here is a photo of my home made clutch pack compressor.

Nice write up Opera House. If you want me to include it on the tech page send me the text as a Word or a text document.

 

[Opera House]

What Is Wrong With My A4LD?

There are eight major mechanical "clutch" components in the 91-94 A4LD. There are three bands (overdrive, intermediate & low/reverse), three clutches (overdrive, reverse/high,& forward), and two one way clutches (overdrive & rear). The following simple tests can begin to isolate the problem. Prior to performing these tests, check for correct transmission fluid levels when the engine is warm. Look for discolored fluid with a burnt odor.
1. Does the vehicle move with the shift lever in reverse? This tests the overdrive clutch, overdrive one way clutch, reverse/high clutch, and the low/reverse band. This is a primary a test for Low/Reverse band.
2. Does the vehicle move with the shift lever in manual low (1) position. This tests the overdrive clutch, overdrive one way clutch, forward clutch, low reverse band, and the rear one way clutch. This is a primary a test for Forward clutch.
3. Does the vehicle move with the shift lever in manual second (2). This tests the overdrive clutch, overdrive one way clutch, intermediate band, and the forward clutch. This is a primary a test for Intermediate band.
4. Find a fairly steep hill and point the vehicle in a downward direction. Place the vehicle in manual low(1). Remove your foot from the brake and do not touch the gas pedal. Allow the vehicle to accelerate on it's own. There should be significant engine braking as indicated by the tach going to 2-3K. This is the primary a test for Low/Reverse band servo leakage.
5. Find a level section of highway and travel at a steady speed of 55-60. Observe the reading on the tach. Now, gently apply the brake with your left foot. You only want to apply enough pressure to operate the brake light. The rpm on the tach should increase 300-400 rpm. This will disengage the torque converter clutch. If the rpm does not increase, the torque converter was not engaged prior to applying the brake. This likely indicates a valve body or TCC solenoid problem. If you see a rpm the TCC is working.
6. At highway speeds, the tach is where it always used to be. If a lot higher, then this indicates a problem in the overdrive section of the transmission. This tests the overdrive band, reverse/high clutch, and the forward clutch. If tach rpm is normal then the overdrive is still working.
7. The transmission has a later shift point than it used to have in drive out of both first and second. This indicates a problem with the vacuum modulator. Check the vacuum hose going to the modulator at the vacuum tree for signs of transmission fluid.
8. The transmission has a later shift point than it used to have in drive only out of first. This indicates a problem with the speed governor.
9. When the vehicle is cold, the transmission is slow to go into forward or reverse when you first try to remove it. This is likely a clogged filter and very old fluid. This is a precursor to other problems. The pan should be dropped and inspected for debris. This is only a partial list of diagnostics but it will identify many problem areas. The ATSG manual has 15 pages of diagnostics.

 

[Opera House]

Speed Governor and Transfer Case Removal

This is a separate procedure because some A4LD transmissions exhibit problems with a late shift from first to second. This problem is associated with a sticking speed governor valve located in the extension housing. This extension housing can be removed to work on the governor while the transmission it is still in the car. If the transmission is being dropped, this will lower the weight, length, and removing the governor will protect it from damage. The transfer case must be removed if the vehicle is 4WD.

WARNING: The vehicle should be safely supported on jack stands with the wheels blocked on a level surface. Chock the wheels to prevent movement of the vehicle. The automatic transmission PARK will be disabled and the rear wheels may need to be rotated.

Unbolting both drive shafts should be mundane but sometimes these bolts can be hard to remove. A good twelve point socket and penetrant should remove these bolts but sometimes it is best to buy some good Torx sockets. Support the transmission with a jack and remove all the 18mm cross member nuts holding the transmission.

After removing the bolts to the transfer case, pull the transfer case out about a half inch. There is a pin that locks the case into the horizontal position. When this pin is cleared, the transfer case will still be supported by the shaft and will swing down by gravity. Then pull it out more and slowly let it drop down to some folded carpets. Now remove the bolts on the extension housing. The transmission rubber mount must also be removed to get at a couple of the transmission extension bolts. Put the transmission in los (1). Carefully pull off the extension housing. The parking pawl is located between the main transmission case and the extension The pawl should stay with the extension and note the position of the small spring on it. The governor valve is then just mounted with two bolts.

Remove the governor carefully, all the pieces will easily fall out. There is the outer weight, close to the shaft. followed by a spring, then the primary valve that goes into the governor body. The valve should move freely from its own weight Although mine worked, it was very sticky. You could see wear marks on the steel piston. I polished it by hand with some very fine wet or dry paper with oil on it. Roll the paper into a tube with the abrasive side out. Insert this into the aluminum valve body and slowly rotate to clean the surface. It doesn't take much and be sure plenty of oil is on it. The piston should now operate freely. If yours is sticking, it is because of wear and not contamination. I have seen these valves new for about $30, but they are easy enough to clean up.

Not a hard job at all. I think a lot of these are on the brink of failing. The only tricky part is getting the parking rod back into the extension housing. Put in park to extend rod, then shift into low to bolt on the housing. The gasket on the transmission end comes in a standard rebuild kit, the transfer gasket must be ordered separately. If you are doing a repair, you can probably get away with using the old gaskets if they aren't damaged.

 

[asp84]

Thank you Opers House. It would eb cool to see all this info compiled in to a manual or seperate webapge.

Thanks,
Al

 

[Brett]

This is a great Thread! I'll be doing a complete rebuild on the a4ld in the BII. The drivetrain is out of a 93 Ex. I rebuilt the motor when I put it in the BII, but left the tranny alone (it only had 84K on it). The tranny now has about 125K on it and just gave up the ghost. In fact, it is the same problem that Lee Carroll originally posted. No forward gears, reverse is fine. If the motor is reved up to about 4K in drive, something catches and it will barely move (enough to get in on and off the trailer and into the garage). I've got the feeling that its the forward clutch pack????

Sound like I should be purchasing the ATSG manuals and possibly the Ford A4LD manual.

Thanks for the help.

Brett

 

[SteveVB]

Originally posted by Brett

Sound like I should be purchasing the ATSG manuals and possibly the Ford A4LD manual.

Thanks for the help.

Brett

Brett,

The Ford manuals I have seen seem to be reprints of the ATSG info.

What you want are the A4LD book and the A4LD update book from ATSG. I think Bulkparts.com has them both.

I would guess the forward clutches and or band, I dont have any manuals handy to check, but thats my guess. If the TC was out I dont think rev would work either without RPMs.

 

[jon42]

That was a very informative thread sir.Im currently removing my a4ld for the second time this month as the rebuild i did lasted only 150 or so miles. It worked well and just as i was about to trust its function for extended driveing,it failed. I have been scouring the net for info on this trans to have some clue as where to start on a diagnosis when i go back into it. I found several other forums (if you arent allready familiar with them) that may be informative or entertaining to our common struggle.They are: Offroad rangers--ford enthusiasts--ranger power sports.Thier basic site setup is identical to this one so you shouldnt have any trouble navigating around. Also if you dont have access to a welder/grinder/cutting torch to fabricate your own clutch compressing tool, a simple C clamp works very efficiently and can be found at second hand stores or welding supply shops.I found mine for $10 shekels. The alignment of the front pump was mentioned considerably in this thread and before i disasembled my trans i had no knowledge of its need upon reassembly. After some research, in the midst of repairing mine,I discovered its neccessity. I studied the need for this tool and assertained that its most important function is to ensure an oil clearance between the torque converter neck/snout and the bell housing bushing.This bushing apparently is installed unfinished into the housing. Then align bored with the positioning of the front pump(even off centered in this proccess)This is why removal of either the front pump or the bushing itself requires re aligning.I found a method to this re alignment that i incorporated in my reassembly since i did remove mine.I will discover the results of it as soon as i dissassemble.I hearby absolve myself of any responsability if anyone chooses to use this method. This is what i did:I reasoned that the torque converer snout needs oil clearance as i said before.So i applied a peice of scotch tape( only 1 revolutions worth so as not to overlap itself)on the torque converter snout where the bushing will ride. Then i laid two peices of 2x4 on the table ,just a bit shorter than the diameter of the converter.I laid the converter on top of the 2x4,s "snout up".I then put the bell housing over the converter, and at this height, the converter + the hieght of the 2x4,s allowed the snout to protrude through the housing where the tape was applied on it.( you may need to shim the height a bit to achieve proper results) Then i lowered the front pump into the converter and tightend it up.This would seemingly be an acceptable remedy to alignment of the front pump, since no matter what analogy is considered, the oil clearance "IS" the issue. (just as in crankshaft bearings).Since the torque converter IS the device that is present in actual operation...what better device could be used to position the pump?(besides the tools).Im aware there may be some shortfall i havent recognized in this and welcome discussion to point out the cons of it.

 

[ALYZ1FLR]

jon42

I hate to say it but the tape method just wont do and it is a good suspect for your failure. The proper alighnment toool is tapered and does not pass thru the 'SNOUT". The purpose of the alighnment tool is to center your input shaft and your fluid pump drivengear. Misalignment of input shaft or pump gear will cause failure in short order.

 

[jon42]

After some further consideration i beleive also that it is ineffective for alignment purposes as the front pump support is not a machine fit with the inside of the converter snout.This being the case there would be too much "play"and accurate centering of the pump almost impossible.What may i ask,is a close $figure$ for the alignment tool if, you know?.........jon

 

[ALYZ1FLR]

Alignment tool

78 dollars thru atsg. I had a local trans mision shop do the alignment and they charged me 15. 160 thru the dealer!!! Good luck.

 

[jon42]

$78???.....yeah ill be checking out the local mechanic shop at that price. I think tho id better find some way of checking the pump gears for trashed ness .I just got the a4ld manual today,it must have a an allowance on wear, so will be doing some homework tonight.