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Anyone Remove thier ABS module?

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Elite Explorer
Joined
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City, State
Santa Cruz, Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XLT
Anyone Remove thier ABS module? *UPDATE*

I tried a search but nothing as far as removing ABS from the brake system. My module is leaking and I don't like ABS on the trails. Any help, info, remarks, suggestions or input would be great! 410Fortune what you think???
 



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good question, its scary!

I am lucky, my BII only had RABS and the RABS valve is easy to bypass.

I still have mine in place but not for long.
the RABS computer has been removed, the wiring is still there until I have the interior apart again, and the stator inteh rear axle is gone.....

So obviously I have no more RABS.
I plan to bypass the RABS valve with a short piece of hard brake line.
I disconnected the RABS computer to get the light to go off.

I have been driving it like that for years, works great! even with my rear discs and stock (drum) master cyl.

To do it right, bypass the RABS valve and try to find a rear disc master. Unplug or remove the RABS computer and wiring. You should be fine.

I hated the RABS, it would get me in more trouble in a slide, especially on ice and washboards........call me old fashioned but I would like to control the pedal pulse, thanks! :)
 






I agree...my friends Bronco II has the RABS light on all the time. I should tell him to disable it, instead of shooting out the light with a BB gun as I jokingly suggested.
 






Didn't Rick pull his ABS out of the Great Pumpkin?? I know there are a few just can't remember who???
 






i didnt remove it, i just diable it evert time its wet and all winter long.
 






udmsvt: What is your trick for disabling it???
 






um....remove the fuse from the underhood fuseblock. then, i throw a piece of electrical tape over the light. kinda cheesy but i have no leaks, i just hate the abs in these things.
 






Talked with my mechanic. He makes it sound like a piece of cake??? I will let everyone know what we do.
 






UDMSVT

I have the same fix we must have gone to the same "fix it school" or was it "F%#K it school" tape works on that pesky check engine lit too
 






i dont have the engine light issue on my truck but i used that fix on my 97 contour too. after the first time i drove my ex in the snow, i knew something had to be done because the abs doesnt work on our 91 and it stopped 25 feet before i did.
 






Unplug the ABS computer and that CEL light goes away....
 






I removed my ABS all together, but it requires some new lines. Dissabling it is easy, but removing it is a bit trickier. I would just pull the fuse on the trails. If you need a new ABS module I can make you a hell of a deal on my old one out of the 97, course I dubt it would work in a 94.

The master cylindar only has two output lines one front one rear and the ABS module has thee out, two front one rear. So if you pull it you have to make new lines for the front wiith a T or soemthing and it may not work out the best.
 






Ok got a ABS module/brake pump for the pick and pull for $250. I'm installing the new one. Question is do I need to bleed all four brake lines?
 






Yes.

Anytime you disconnect the front and rear lines from the master you must bleed all 4 lines.

You know the proceedure, start at the one furthest away....heck I bleed them all just for good measure, its easy with a 1 man bleeder kit :)
 






410Fortune, again you come the rescue. So what is a "one man bleeder kit"?
 






OH my goodness.

OKay a 1 man bleeder kit is a simple tube and container.
IN my case it is a small container with a screw on lid, with a magnet on it, comes in very handy.

Basically it has a rubber fitting on the end of the bleed tube that fits right over the bleed screw on the caliper. ZThe tube then leads into the plastic container and down into some brake fluid. The magnet allows me to hang the container on the truck frame or whatever is close.

This way you can open the bleed screw a little, and go pump the pedal yourself without worrying about air getting back in the system.

Any auto parts store will carry this, they are about $10.

If you have any doubt, just use a friend and have them pump the pedal....this way you can watch the air bubbles and you will know when you are done.
 






Thanks again. I will check it out. Sometimes you can't find an extra person to push the pedal.

I don't understand how it doesn't allow air back in? But I'm sure I will find out when I buy one.
 






Just like when you bleed brakes, you put the end of the tube in brake fluid. Impossible for air to get back into the lines as long as the tube is tight over the bleed screw.

The key to bleeding brakes is to only loosen the bleed screw until fluid starts to flow, you dont want it loose! You want it semi tight, but so fluid can still get through..
 






I bought a set of speed bleeders (bleeder screws w/ check valves in them) and they work awesome. It's also a one man affair to bleed your brakes with these things.
I got the Russel brand for about $20 for all 4. I've even seen them at Pep Boys under a different brand.
 



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All I did was disconnect the lines from each side and use a #4 to #4 inverted flare connector, and unplug the the electrical connections. Robbie
 






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