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Anyone Running Dual-Alternators?

Mmmmm. subscribing... I'm putting in a massive system here shortly and would love to add another alternator... I bought a new 130amp alternator, and had my old 130amp rebuilt for about 40 bucks... I'd love to save some money and install a dual setup...
 



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Caps can be a huge hinder on systems because of the discharge rate, basically they have no reserve and makes your alt work harder to try and recharge them, so at full tilt a cap is worthless. With 3 batteries (believe is what you said) you should have no issues at all. Something is wrong with the way it is set up.

Somebody needs to brush up on their electrical theory....

Caps will NOT "hinder" a charging system. Why would you say that they make your alt work harder? Caps are nothing but a small storage device...LIKE A BATTERY!!!! The difference is that caps release their energy far faster than a battery....WHEN IT IS CALLED FOR! Music is dynamic. Large bass transients need LOTS of power NOW! So, it's not so much "how much" energy you are getting to the amps, it's WHEN you are getting that energy to the amps.

The big myth about charging systems is that more batteries will help stop dimming headlights. Ummm...sorry, it's the other way around. A battery is a LOAD! just like a light bulb. It takes approximately 10 amps of your alt to MAINTAIN a full charge on the average car battery. So, the more batteries you add, the more of a drain they are on the charging system! In effect, you have added an additional 20 amp load on the charging system, by adding two more batteries. And, made your lights that dim at full tilt, music output...dim more than ever! Remember, batteries are not a SOURCE of energy, they are storage devices for energy created by the alternator. YES, they are a storage device. A storage device that holds lots of energy, but due to it's internal resistance, it discharges SLOWER than a cap. A cap is also an energy storage device. But, due to it's smaller reserve, it takes LESS energy to bring it back to full charge. Unlike a discharged battery that might take hours to return to full charge.

Now, the interesting part here, is that a cap should be the electolytic canister type. NOT the carbon type, that resemble a battery. The large, 100 Farad type caps ARE useless. Because, they share the same problem as the battery....high internal resistance. The cylindrical, canister, electrolytic type caps...with LOW internal resistance, are what will help your charging system. BUT, you will need 1 farad of capacitance/1000W of amp power.

To respond to the OP...

Now, caps will only help you get over SLIGHT dimming. In your case, you are relying on battery power to play your system, with the ignition off. You will benefit from more batteries, for THAT purpose. BUT, you will most likely need a larger alt to keep THEM charged.

I have 2900 Watts in my system. I will only get about 15-30 minutes of play at moderate listeming levels. I have one battery. With two, I might be able to double that time. OR, I can just listen to the system with the engine running.

I would definately spring for the larger alt. And, I would get an AGM type battery if you don't already have one. They can discharge deeper, without damage. They can recover again, and again. And, they still can be used as a starting battery.
 






I have 2900 Watts in my system. I will only get about 15-30 minutes of play at moderate listeming levels. I have one battery. With two, I might be able to double that time. OR, I can just listen to the system with the engine running.

What about at maximum levels? Like when it's turned up and the bass hits, do you have dimming issues then (with engine running/idling). Just curious as the only thing I've added thus far is a 130 amp alternator (up from stock 95), bettery wiring, and the amp/subs in the back. At 1600 total watts, when the bass hits hard I have a severe dimming issue... But they always come right back, and if I'm driving (when the RPMs are in the full charge rate range) I don't...

Just wondering if you have dimming issues, or if you yourself run a capacitor with the system somewhere.
 






What about at maximum levels? Like when it's turned up and the bass hits, do you have dimming issues then (with engine running/idling). Just curious as the only thing I've added thus far is a 130 amp alternator (up from stock 95), bettery wiring, and the amp/subs in the back. At 1600 total watts, when the bass hits hard I have a severe dimming issue... But they always come right back, and if I'm driving (when the RPMs are in the full charge rate range) I don't...

Just wondering if you have dimming issues, or if you yourself run a capacitor with the system somewhere.

It can dim at max volume, when at idle. But, remember, H.O. Alt or not...you get more output with increasing rpm's. At idle I might be getting 150amps, not 250 amp (rated output of my alt). So, at cruising speed; no problems.

Also, are we talking about Class D, or Class AB, amps? Mine are class AB. That means, I'm likely 30-40% less efficient than a comparable Class D amp, of the same rated output. I don't know what you are running, but the largest alt you can find is never a bad idea.
 






Did this project ever come to fruition?


If so care to share how it was done?
 






I have no dim, its just one alt cant maintain the power I need lol.

I had to put the project on hold because I "lost" my plasma cutter, and dont have a good way of cutting plate now lol..

(and my system is set up properly ;D )
 






I know a place where you can get an HO Alt up to 250 amps at 2000rpm for ford/mercs.

Same ones they use on Unique Whips....
 












Well I was gonna say I am a dealer but OK, go to fee pay...

lol
 






well my 210 just craped out,it started charging at around 16+ volts and would dim out every time you use anything.so maybe it was starting going bad when it was given to me but i just got the new DB 220amp and im holding on to my old one and going to have it rebuilt if i ever get around to doing this mod.i also saw something in another post that makes me wonder


"I The more power an alternator can produce, the more power it will take from the engine. This is why performance companies sell pulley kits, slow the alternator down and it will draw less power from the engine. Back in the early 1980’s Jim Vance of the Gates Rubber Company invented serpentine belt. The wider serpentine belt transmitted more power to the alternator, allowing for higher electrical output. However all belts have their limitations.

a single V-belt can only generate ~95amps before it will slip.
a 6rib belt can only generate ~180amps before it will slip.

There is no reason to have a 200amp alternator if it will only produce 180.

* For a while Ford offered a 215amp alternator made by Mitsubishi on its diesel ambulance option. However this alternator had an 8rib belt, because its required to generate that much power.
* Currently Ford offers a dual 110amp alternator option on its Super Duty Trucks. And Ford still runs an 8rib belt on that setup to ensure full power from both alternators. However the dual alternator option is controlled by the ECM. The alternators will not work without the computer."

i wonder how they test these alternators then and how true this is?
 






I'm curious if getting a Gator belt (is that the brand?) will help? I've read they have a different pattern for more grip. But I would think the "slippage" would occur at certain rpms, not at how many amps it's producing.

Edit: I looked at my A/C area, I personally think it's go small to fit another alternator unless you're going to use a different alternator that stock. But I measured mine, and a stock alternator (adapter or not) won't fit. It's a few inches to short and the power steering reservoir is in the way.
 






I agree, I don't see how it will just slip, i wouldn't think an alternator would give a lot of resistance(in good condition), (compared to the other things on the belt), maybe if the RPM's spike suddenly?

no experience, just guesstimating
 






Ok well i finally got around to building the bracket, its currently a 4 piece "design", im going to make sure it works the way i want it too first, then ill fab up a one piece cleaner looking one. and post the plans

ill post some pictures tomorrow, anyone know how to wire it up? its the alt with one three wired connector and the output. i want both the alts to be charging one system.
 






anyone know how to wire it?
 






i know my post is kinda late but if you guys are looking for a good high output alternator search it on ebay and find the seller dbelectrical. they sell 250amp alternators for like 270. i bought the 200amp one for 215 and it works great. im running about 2500rms and no dimming. I'd do that before i used dual alternators...just a suggestion :)
 












stock 130 alt
 












How was that mounted?
 



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1/4 inch steel plates drilled and tapped and bolted to the stock compressor mount! Then used some old 3/8 drive deep well sockets cut down a bit to give the correct height! Stock length belt was used!!
 






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